Hard Starting when cold - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Pierre, SD
Year: 1990
Make: GL1500
Model: Aspencade
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Hard Starting when cold

Hi folks:
I would like your thoughts on my 1100. When the weather is above 60 degrees, the motor will fire up at the first bump of the starter with little or now choke. I give it a slight chock to warm her up and we are good to go.


Once the temperature drops below 50 degrees, she seems hard starting. If I give it chock, it turns over but won't fire. If I don't give it any chock, it fires right away but then dies. I try to give it slight chock but it almost seems like an all or nothing deal when trying to start it. I usually have to keep bumping the starter until it starts and barely keeps running. If I try to give it some gas, it will die. I usually have to get it to start and just wait a minute or two for it to warm up before I can give it gas and have it respond without dying.


Relating to this, when out riding during the summer, it will stumble when I give it gas went running around 50 MPH and it feels like it it is missing or fuel starved. When I set the valve clearance, I noticed the front right cylinder appeared to be running richer than the other three cylinders. I bought a kit but having balanced the carbs yet but that is on my list for this spring.


Would the carbs be causing these issues? Or this there something else I am missing? I would appreciate your thoughts.


Dave in Pierre, SD
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 03:14 PM
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I'm wondering if your choke is working all the way. I know my 1200 needs full choke in cold weather.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-04-2016, 03:31 PM
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to me, it sounds like it is jetted too lean.


Quote:
Relating to this, when out riding during the summer, it will stumble when I give it gas went running around 50 MPH and it feels like it it is missing or fuel starved
.


this contributes to not wanting to run when first started, and also to not having enough power in the summer.

make sure the Accelerator Pump is working... twisting the throttle opens the air passage a bunch, and if there is no fuel squirted into the throat, it will sputter and die when cold, and stumble when warm.

~ John


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 12:51 PM Thread Starter
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I think the chock is working because it seems to work fine when it is warm as the RPM's increase as I pull it back. But it is weird when I fully engage the chock when trying to start when it is cold that I get zero firing of the engine. It only fires with the chock fully disengaged. I'm wondering if a carb rebuild is in order?


I'll check the Accelerator Pump to see if that is a problem. Thanks for the suggestion John!
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvoeltz View Post
I think the chock is working
It is not.
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because it seems to work fine when it is warm as the RPM's increase as I pull it back.
An indicator that is useless in the cold.
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Originally Posted by dvoeltz View Post
But it is weird when I fully engage the chock when trying to start when it is cold that I get zero firing of the engine.
Because the fuel circuit(s) are plugged.
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It only fires with the chock fully disengaged.
An indicator that fuel is not passing through the carburetor(s) properly.
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I'm wondering if a carb rebuild is in order?
Absolutely.
A disassembly for inspection is in order as a first step to correcting the problem of the choke not functioning properly.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 01:44 PM
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Seafoam, 1/2 can to a full tank of gas. New plugs, new spark plug caps, cut the plug wires back 1/4"-1/2" before screwing on new caps.


Scott

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"I feel thin, sort of stretched, like butter scraped over too much bread" Bilbo Baggins

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-05-2016, 01:52 PM
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Seafoam, 1/2 can to a full tank of gas.
...a preventive maintenance step. This won't fix his problem.

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Originally Posted by mrtwowheel View Post
New plugs, new spark plug caps, cut the plug wires back 1/4"-1/2" before screwing on new caps.
ALL good advice here.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 10:02 PM
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I have learned that my 97SE fires when i get off or let go of the starter button. So I give it short bursts with the starter choked or not. Don't know if that will help but thought I would throw it out there.
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-06-2016, 11:45 PM
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I have learned that my 97SE fires when i get off or let go of the starter button. So I give it short bursts with the starter choked or not. Don't know if that will help but thought I would throw it out there.

if you would put in an AGM battery, it would start before you could get your finger off the button almost.

it is the wet cell batteries that don't hold up their surface charge.... they pull down to around 10.5 volts and the 1500s refuse to fire the spark plugs until you release the Start Button, then the battery jumps back to ~12V and it fires right up.

In my '94 and my '98, I installed AGM batteries and both of them would start while turning over.

~ John


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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 01-15-2016, 08:19 AM
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So assuming valves are in spec and compression is good, u likely will need the carbs cleaned. I've noticed my bike runs lean when cold too. I get just a slight sputter and intake spits a little when cold. In my case it's the ethanol making the bike just a tad lean. I'm thinking next time the carbs are out I might add bigger pilot jets and shim the needles. In ur case I would check the float hieght before putting it back together. If they are in spec don't mess with them as that's like opening Pandora's box
Well have fun
Ps the 1100 pilot jets are usually pressed in. Best way to remove them is to insert a screw into the and pull them out with pliers using the screw head

1987 goldwing aspencade
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