Silly questions about clutch/oil and petcocks - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-13-2016, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Question Silly questions about clutch/oil and petcocks

O K so bear with me ...

My current other rides are two yamahas 79 xs750and80 xs850Triple shaft drive.

First Qustion: Both have wet clutches... clutch is bathed in engine oil. and hence oil with friction reducing additives are a no no.

Is the 2000 1500 clutch a wet clutch? I tried to find the answer in a shop manual I found on Goldwingdocs, which was for an 84 1200. Haven't found an on line answer.

Second question: Petcocks. the Yammies have a gravity feed fuel system. If the petcocks leak then you get gas in the oil and that is a real bummer. Many people have changed to manual, non-vacuum petcocks.

Are the petcocks that much of a problem with the goldwings and do people convert to manual? As I read it the Goldwings rely on an electric pressure pump, and therefore should not be the draining problem from the tank that the Yammies have.

Third question: rear shocks...Aw common guys.... an air pressure shock on the right and a standard spring shock on the left... am I reading that right? who thought of that one? and please help me WHY? I don't get it.

please tolerate me while l learn about my new toy that seems to be more complex than it needs too

John in Baltimore.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-13-2016, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by johnfliesagain View Post


Is the 2000 1500 clutch a wet clutch?


Second question: Petcocks.

Are the petcocks that much of a problem with the goldwings and do people convert to manual?

Third question: rear shocks...Aw common guys.... an air pressure shock on the right and a standard spring shock on the left... am I reading that right? who thought of that one? and please help me WHY? I don't get it.
1: yes, it is wet

2: yes, it is vacuum, and is not opened until after the engine is spinning.

3: um, it seems to work okay, I never bothered doing anything different on a '94 and a '98.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-14-2016, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by johnfliesagain View Post
O K so bear with me ...

My current other rides are two yamahas 79 xs750and80 xs850Triple shaft drive.

First Qustion: Both have wet clutches... clutch is bathed in engine oil. and hence oil with friction reducing additives are a no no.

Is the 2000 1500 clutch a wet clutch? I tried to find the answer in a shop manual I found on Goldwingdocs, which was for an 84 1200. Haven't found an on line answer.

Second question: Petcocks. the Yammies have a gravity feed fuel system. If the petcocks leak then you get gas in the oil and that is a real bummer. Many people have changed to manual, non-vacuum petcocks.

Are the petcocks that much of a problem with the goldwings and do people convert to manual? As I read it the Goldwings rely on an electric pressure pump, and therefore should not be the draining problem from the tank that the Yammies have.

Third question: rear shocks...Aw common guys.... an air pressure shock on the right and a standard spring shock on the left... am I reading that right? who thought of that one? and please help me WHY? I don't get it.

please tolerate me while l learn about my new toy that seems to be more complex than it needs too

John in Baltimore.
1. yeah it is wet -- you'll see common oil bath and also an oil-scavenging pump in the rear case to get the oil fed to the clutch area back into the sump. Friction-reducing modifiers in car-oils are still a no no for the 1500 (all years of Goldwing are wet clutch FWIW)

2. Originally the 1500 did not have a fuel petcock (back in early '88), but after a few really flooded starts and some alleged issues with hydro-locking, Honda modified the fuel-path to include the vacuum-operated petcock (and issued TSB 1500#1 to retrofit the petcock into bike that were produced without to keep the US' EPA happy on the hot-start emissions, I suspect). The issue is that the pump is a by-pass vane style pump, so fuel can easily flow through the pump when the pump is not spinning. If the float's needle/seat will allow fuel flow, the bike will gravity feed, and due to some of the emissions regulations (about having to hold fuel vapor in the tank) this can be under slight pressure -- really not too much of an issue, exacerbated on the side stand after a hot ride where fuel may sublimate from the bowls allowing floats to drop while the bike is still warm. The vacuum stuff works for years, and can be rebuilt on the cheap. I've changed some to electric petcocks (advantage of allowing fuel to pass when the key is first turned ON to replenish dry bowls) and others to manual (really ugly - you've gotta open the fuel door before and after each ride) and some folks just remove the petcock altogether and maybe start rich now and then...

3) Yep - you really only have one "shock" in the sense of a oscillation dampener -- the other is just an airbag to help the spring hold the varying weight-load in the design-center of the swing-arm motion. Quite a few people change to a dual air-shock setup from Progressive Suspension - Progressive Suspension also offers a dual-shock setup with the more conventional spring pre-load adjustment cams like found on a lot of the other dual-shock bikes (these are great if you ride the same weight all the time, but reaching in to change the setting can be a bit of a bugger). As mentioned, the shock + Airbag setup was OEM from 1988 through 2000 production and seems to do the job nicely, even if there is a little torsional force on the stamped/welded hollow swing-arm...

This site has a "buyer's guide" that might help a new owner some (at the very least, you can review all the Honda TSBs on your bike, to better understand a little of the evolution) https://www.goldwingfacts.com/used1500.htm
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-14-2016, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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Oh God am I really thanking Satan for a response? guess so!

Really great info.. thanks for the explanation about the innards of the pump. an "ah ha" moment.

There have been many a horror story about the Yamaha engines having "The Dreaded Gas/Oil", caused by the vacuum diaphragm failure or even a bit of dirt failing to seal the valves. And yes it is worse on the side stand. I have switched both of my bikes to manual from Mikesxs.com. Not cheap at $110 per bike but worth the price of an engine. And the petcocks are out in the open so easy on / off too!

Best source for electric petcocks?

Well I will wait to find out about the suspension before doing anything to the bike; and as a new owner, I will have a lot of waiting and reading to do!

Last edited by johnfliesagain; 01-14-2016 at 05:09 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-15-2016, 10:15 AM
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Here is one source for the electric petcocks.


http://www.dan-marc.com/79-afc11112.html
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 04:40 PM
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Here is one source for the electric petcocks.


http://www.dan-marc.com/79-afc11112.html
I've prolly got a few of these bouncing around the bench ...
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 06:03 PM
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the Wing was ahead of its time in many areas, one being the mono-shock rear end commonly found on bikes today. The left rear is doing ALL the real suspension work, the right shock is used to raise the rear end back to correct LEVEL setting when you are loaded up with passenger and or luggage.
Stock, stay below 50 psi. Try 10-15-20 solo.
With passenger 20-40 and 50 is fully loaded to the limits!
The air shock is just that- an air/oil only device - no spring- that can stiffen the ride feeling by adding pressure. There are some guys who always use 50psi and ride it like they are on the race track!
Ck left shock for oil leaks, otherwise its probably still good
Right side can get seal failure and be rebuilt- new oil can help and drying the pump- all in our diy section
Everyone using the $400 Progressive rears loves them as both have real springs and oil inside, and excellent air control for plush freeway ride or taking it camping~
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 08:33 PM
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Here is one source for the electric petcocks.


http://www.dan-marc.com/79-afc11112.html
I'm running a similar one myself I used the tail light for power.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 02:11 PM
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Stock, stay below 50 psi. Try 10-15-20 solo.
With passenger 20-40 and 50 is fully loaded to the limits!
The air shock is just that- an air/oil only device - no spring- that can stiffen the ride feeling by adding pressure. There are some guys who always use 50psi and ride it like they are on the race track!
The rear air shock is rated to 57 psi. When taking this measurement or making adjustments it should be done on the center stand because the air pump is very small and it stresses it if you make it push up the weight of a loaded bike.

I keep it 45-48 all the time, but I am running a taller rear tire and like my corners...

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2016, 11:22 AM
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like I said, some people run 50psi and ride it like they are on the racetrack!
For regular people, try lower!
rider weight is also a factor in psi
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