Rear turn signal lights to running lights - Page 5 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #41 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-24-2016, 03:30 PM
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for me, it came in quite handy a few months back, when my F-150's engine suddenly started chugging and lost power. Plugged in my CANBUS reader and got a report that sparkplug #5 was not working.... Worked like a charm, bought 1 sparkcoil pak and replaced just that one item.... engine purrs like a cat now...
I'm not an expert, but I understand that the port is OBDII (OnBoard Diagnostic 2), that connects to the car's main ECU/ECM, and CANBUS is the communications 'bus' (as you mentioned) that's used to communicate with different electronic modules on the car. So, OBDII is the interface to the ECU/ECM and CAN is the bus used by the ECU/ECM to communicate with the rest of the vehicle. http://www.oneminuteinfo.com/2014/02...r-dummies.html

I have a bluetooth OBDII that I got off ebay, and run from my android phone using a free OBDII car reader app - it's come in very handy to diagnose a few of my vehicles and several of my friend's/neighbor's vehicles.

I still trying to absorb the canbus LED's part, since they say they won't resolve the hyperflashing. So, it seems to me that they add some resistors to the LED itself, but not enough resistance to emulate an incandescent bulb. The small amount of extra resistance seems to be enough for the CANbus to be able to get feedback, though. I don't see how a system designed for an incandescent bulb would have an issue with an LED with a little extra resistance, since you can add ballast resistors to LED's so you get the same level of resistance as an incandescent bulb, to avoid hyperflashing (with a standard bi-metal strip mechanical flasher unit.) Again, I'm no expert, so it would be interesting to find out why they say the 'canbus' LED's are not good in a non-canbus system.
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post #42 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-24-2016, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by rgmr250 View Post
I'm not an expert, but I understand that the port is OBDII (OnBoard Diagnostic 2), that connects to the car's main ECU/ECM, and CANBUS is the communications 'bus' (as you mentioned) that's used to communicate with different electronic modules on the car. So, OBDII is the interface to the ECU/ECM and CAN is the bus used by the ECU/ECM to communicate with the rest of the vehicle. http://www.oneminuteinfo.com/2014/02...r-dummies.html
.
Rick,

What you said is precisely correct. At the time I wrote the above, I could not remember what the acronym is for the port to the ECM/ECU (called differently by different people. It is the same thing.)

I too, have the OBDII reader, mine was expensive, cost me $19.95 at Atwoods Farm and Ranch , oh no, it was AutoZap, no, it was AutoSlap....

anyway, all it gives me is the Code # and I have to get the Internet bible out and see what that code means.

The process took me 15 minutes longer than a good reader with builtin definitions.... but the result was the same. I knew the engine had a bad heart beat, and need new injections of Spark Fluid

it was nice, that it told me exactly which sparker was not getting enough of the good fluids....

~ John


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post #43 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-24-2016, 09:48 PM
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Rick,

What you said is precisely correct. At the time I wrote the above, I could not remember what the acronym is for the port to the ECM/ECU (called differently by different people. It is the same thing.)

I too, have the OBDII reader, mine was expensive, cost me $19.95 at Atwoods Farm and Ranch , oh no, it was AutoZap, no, it was AutoSlap....

anyway, all it gives me is the Code # and I have to get the Internet bible out and see what that code means.

The process took me 15 minutes longer than a good reader with builtin definitions.... but the result was the same. I knew the engine had a bad heart beat, and need new injections of Spark Fluid

it was nice, that it told me exactly which sparker was not getting enough of the good fluids....
John,

Yes, those OBD tools are fantastic - I think the one I have cost all of $12 off eBay. It's a little harder to use than the full-fledged tools, but as a (barely) shadetree mechanic, it's hard to justify $150 for a tool that I use 1-2 times a year. If I were a mechanic, then the proper tool would be well worth the extra $.

Wish the 87 Yamaha FZR1000 project bike I've got had an OBDII... I bought it for $300 with a bad transmission, pulled the engine, found a couple teeth missing from some gears, found a complete replacement set of trans gears, shift drum and forks for $80 on eBay, got that put in, and got the engine back in the bike last weekend, but have been having starting issues. First, I had fouled plugs (brand new plugs when I bought the bike, ran it for a few minutes to make sure it ran), but sitting there, or when first trying to start it up (with some admittedly old/foul smelling gas) must have fouled them. This, after checking everything else possible. Now, new plugs and I got it to fire, once, but mostly just cranks over without catching/firing. With an OBDII port, it would likely point me right to the culprit. On that subject, I wonder if/when bikes will start having OBD type ports? A lot of them do now, I understand, but not to the same extent and certainly not a standardized port (seem to have their own proprietary ports when they do have some kind of interface). I think the OBD was mandated by the government. Unfortunately, likely the only way to get all the different manufacturers to have a common interface...

Bikes I've owned since June, 2013:
Since sold:11 CBR250R, 89 ZG1000, 92 Ninja 500, 85 V45 Magna, 84 DT200, 82 Virago 750, 92 Virago 1100, 04 Kawasaki ZZR250, 07 Vstrom 650 ABS, 88 GL1500, 14 Ninja 300, 86 V65 Magna, 96 VLX600, 08 WR250X, 09 KLX250S, 87 FZR1000, 14 Ninja 650, plus some more...
Current rides:
2010 Husqvarna TE250
2015 Kawasaki Ninja 650
2008 GL1800 with bagger kit
1997 GL1500SE
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post #44 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-24-2016, 10:43 PM
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i think that each manufacturer will go their own way on the comm ports...

it would be nice if they would get together, but doubt it will happen.

Have you thought of using some Brake Fluid to clean the new spark plugs, and then blowing them out with high pressure air? ( eye goggles please )
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post #45 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 01:22 AM
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i think that each manufacturer will go their own way on the comm ports...

it would be nice if they would get together, but doubt it will happen.

Have you thought of using some Brake Fluid to clean the new spark plugs, and then blowing them out with high pressure air? ( eye goggles please )
A friend of mine mentioned de-fouling the plugs by heating them up with a torch, and then a wire brush on the electrodes. I ended up just buying new plugs ($4 each, so not a big expense.) I've also heard of cleaning them with solvent, but hadn't read about brake fluid?

Bikes I've owned since June, 2013:
Since sold:11 CBR250R, 89 ZG1000, 92 Ninja 500, 85 V45 Magna, 84 DT200, 82 Virago 750, 92 Virago 1100, 04 Kawasaki ZZR250, 07 Vstrom 650 ABS, 88 GL1500, 14 Ninja 300, 86 V65 Magna, 96 VLX600, 08 WR250X, 09 KLX250S, 87 FZR1000, 14 Ninja 650, plus some more...
Current rides:
2010 Husqvarna TE250
2015 Kawasaki Ninja 650
2008 GL1800 with bagger kit
1997 GL1500SE
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post #46 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 02:18 AM
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Bluewaterhooker,
Would you please measure the resistance of the led at two ends (+ and -) when you remove?
Power consumption of the light is given as 3 watt on its specs, if it is correct. But it is not clear that this consumption is on park or brake mode. If it is correct and the power draw is at these values it may be safe, since the SMR (surface mount resistor) used on these LEDs can stand up to 3 watts (actually it can be higher when resistors connected parallel).

If the power consumption is 3 watts on brake mode it would make great difference, from 20w to 3w.
And if you share the resistance value you may measure would be the answer for the resistor needed for cruise control unit.

By the way, I have read another article about turn signal upgrade. It says the flasher was replaced with a digital one and the turn signal cancel function is not lost. But not giving the details. Here is the post.
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post #47 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 06:21 AM
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The use of electronic flasher relays has been available for a couple of decades at least.
Very common on older cars when a trailer was added to the tail lights, the OEM flashers would start flashing so fast, as to be unusable for turn signals.

the electronic flashers use a timing circuit that just triggers a relay so you don't need to add parallel resistors at all. This is my preferred approach, and would be the 1st thing I would do instead of fooling around with special resistor loads.

The 1st ones were made with the ubiquitous LM555 integrated circuit as the timing device.... a couple of resistors and a capacitor determines the flash rate... all sealed inside a little metal can, or plastic box.

Go to any auto supply store and look for a digital flasher relay, or just ask the counter person.

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post #48 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 06:47 AM
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Azgl1800
I just wanted to bring this issue on the agenda, since many people had tried and lost auto cancel function. But this guy says he didn't.
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post #49 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 07:20 AM
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good enough.

~ John


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post #50 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 09:01 PM
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Bluewaterhooker,
Would you please measure the resistance of the led at two ends (+ and -) when you remove?
Power consumption of the light is given as 3 watt on its specs, if it is correct. But it is not clear that this consumption is on park or brake mode. If it is correct and the power draw is at these values it may be safe, since the SMR (surface mount resistor) used on these LEDs can stand up to 3 watts (actually it can be higher when resistors connected parallel).

If the power consumption is 3 watts on brake mode it would make great difference, from 20w to 3w.
And if you share the resistance value you may measure would be the answer for the resistor needed for cruise control unit.

By the way, I have read another article about turn signal upgrade. It says the flasher was replaced with a digital one and the turn signal cancel function is not lost. But not giving the details. Here is the post.
I measured the 1157 Pilot bulbs that I use, with a Fluke 177. They measure 32 Mohms and 28 Mohms on the 2 different terminals to 'ground'. That is with the (+) lead on the 2 terminals, and (-) on the bulb mount. With the leads reversed, I get an "OL", meaning infinite resistance. Those readings are nowhere in the ballpark of the resistance of an incandescent bulb. Just for grins, I also measured a small T10 #194 type bulb that is not listed as "canbus" compatible. It measures 45 Mohms in one direction, "OL" in the other.
Think on those numbers for a while
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