1994 GL1500 I no choke/dies twist throttle/dies - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Location: East Tennessee
Year: 1994
Make: Honda
Model: GL1500 I
Posts: 22
1994 GL1500 I no choke/dies twist throttle/dies

Have gone thru most of the recommended trouble shooting remidies:

Bike sat for 4 years or more. Starts immediately full choke at idle and will warm up to operating temp.

First no fuel...checked fuel pump..power when push start but no fuel. pulled fuel pump and yep toast so replaced with used pump..tested again and good fuel flow to fuel filter

Now replaced fuel filter and I have fuel to output side of filter but not to tube going to carb. Bypassed the auto fuel shut off awaiting a kit and using a petcock to prevent a fuel lock.

Good 850 cranking amp marine battery cranked with fuel and started with a cloud but the floats stuck and fuel was puddled on the basement floor as I was smiling and my wife had that oh no look. quickly shut down closed the petcock and added Sea Foam directly to the carb fuel supple hose. Pulled the plug wires and cranked to get some fuel in carbs and let sit for 24 hours.

Full Choke will start, no floats stuck and idle until it warmed up and runs very smooth.....except..reduce the choke and dies immediately

If idling smoothly, twist the throttle and dies immediately..yes I did remove the tupperware and top of filter box and checked to see if accelerator pump was working and yes it was. Nice little stream below the little tube sticking out,

Ran about 5 gallons of fuel with three quarts of Sea Foam and yes smoother but have reach a plateau. Reduce Choke..dies immediately. If you use the acceleerator pumps and vigorously twist the throttle you can get your 2500 to 3500 RPM but try to hold it there with no movement of throttle and dies immediately.

I have pulled the carbs and now awaiting a rebuild kit with a selection of low speed idle jets. I have extensive paperwork my friend kept before he passed and I can see both some of the tupperware does not match colors and by the look of some of the phillips he or someone did not have an impact screw gun.

The one vacuum that goes eventually to the ECM all looks good. Even when I use a heat gun to remove the smaller tubes easy to do damage.

I am dreading getting those two hot water lines attached to the heater galley. Many of you are not as intimidated as I am so give me some farm boy tricks. If I do not hear any I will take a long pair of offset needle nose pliers and tig a split metal tubing to each jaw so that I can open and grip the tubes and pull up on the fittings on the carb.

Vacuum checks correctly on the pair vacuum valves when I apply power as per manual. The only iffy is that little metal valve with a piece of spring steel with a round rubber piece on it

What about these reed valves in the manifolds??

I will cook the carbs in a vat made for old airplane parts from my GC-1B 1947 Temco Globe Swift days.

I am in Erwin Tennessee. If anyone close sure could use a mentor...otherwise suggestions why engine dies immediately when reducing choke after warm and dies immediately if you twist the throttle. If you twist slowly then more rapid you can gradually get rpm's up then while doing that take the choke completely off and the right side will backfire..

I will replace the fuel shut off diaphragm and plug
I will rebuild the accelerator pump after have cooked the carb parts clean.

Have owned wings since the 1100 and now my 1800 along with the project 1500. Always took them for granted. Put the key and fuel and regular easy maintenance and they just ran and ran and ran. Never realized how complicated a bike can be. I have a Dyna Super Glide and a GSXR600...piece of cake to work on. compared to the tight spaces and 25 miles of vacuum lines.
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 11:22 PM
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Model: 1995 GL1500 Aspencade, 1985 GL1200 Aspencade, 1983 GL1100 Standard with Vetter Windjammer fairing.
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Unfortunately, if ethanol fuel was left in the carbs it doesn't take long for that stuff to turn to gel/crap and plug especially idle jets. You're doing it right: Just pull, clean and rebuild the two simple carbs so you know the foundation of your fuel system is right.


As for tips: You'll want to replace the primary (4) vacuum lines coming off the bottom of the carbs and tear away enough of the goofy rubber mat on top of the engine so they don't bake under it again. When getting at the carbs, it's much easier if you remove the radiator fans, and when you put the new vacuum hoses on make them longer than OEM lengths; you'll see what I mean, no need for molded lines, just put "sweeps" in them.


I suspect that you have either or both of: Plugged idle jets and a vacuum loss which is most likely one or more of the primary vacuum lines.
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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cornpone View Post
Unfortunately, if ethanol fuel was left in the carbs it doesn't take long for that stuff to turn to gel/crap and plug especially idle jets.
You mean just like the PURE fuel we use to use?

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

Ken.
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 12:10 AM
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When you are warming the 1500 up, only a minute or 2 at 1500-2000 rpm then choke OFF, might have to use throttle to rev slightly a few times then it settles into idle.
If you load the plugs with fuel from extended use of choke = you cause yourself problems

How do the spark plugs look? the Wing likes NGK as you know from your other Wings

Those vac lines under the carbs are a frequent topic on here- if carbs off = new vac lines go on.

Seafoam info from their head tech Guy
: use 2 ounces per gallon of fuel MAX ALLOWED RATIO! as cleaning dose.
Use 1/2 can thru each of 3-4 tanks on the Wing for problem solving.
More than 2 oz per gal does not make it work harder of faster!!

1oz per gal in 1 tank for monthly maintenance dose to combat E10 leftover crud.
Get the most benefit for your money!
Seafoam likes time and heat, riding obviously helps the most, but for now you are doing the right things
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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Bergen View Post
You mean just like the PURE fuel we use to use?

Old, pure gasoline would get stale & rank but unless it was left in carbs for maybe 10 years it didn't produce the crap that ethanol will produce after 12 months.
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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 08:38 AM
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Model: 88 GL1500
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You are on the right page about those coolant hoses going to the front of the carbs.... a PITA to be sure. But the best thing to use is long needle-nose pliers with a 90 bend. The hoses can be accessed easier if the radiator fans are removed.

Another thing about cleaning the carbs: after you remove the float bowls locate the 'slow speed mixture screws'. Slowly screw them in until they lightly seat and count the number of turns until they seat. Should be somewhere about 2 1/4 turns give or take. Reason being is you want to remove the slow speed screws prior to cleaning.... clean the passages and make sure the tips of the needles on the screws are clean from debris. I normally grind off the 'screw stop' on each mixture screw. This way you can set the mixture properly without having to deal with the restrictions of a limited rotation.
You'll want to set the screws back to their original positions when reassembling the carbs. Later, after it's running properly you'll want to set the 'idle drop' as per the manual.

When you replace the accelerator pump: be sure to replace the orings on the supply tube. Old orings will leak. Don't ask me how I know!!

Good Luck
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88 GL1500
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Location: East Tennessee
Year: 1994
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Model: GL1500 I
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If you mean a total of 4 vacuum lines attached to the carbs then I am 1 short.

I have the two on the back side that go to the pairing valves on the right side of bike that are vacuum lines.

I have one with pink tape that goes to the one-way T that opens the vac actuator on cold start

That is only three

I have two large either 6 or 9# on gray lines that come to a strange T box. The box is open on the bottom. I do not understand its function because the third side of the T goes to a drain line. If anything drained out of the carbs it would just fall on the engine. These lines are about 7/16 in diameter.

It seems strange this T-box would be open on the bottom. Is that correct..if so why does it attach to a line that parallels the bowl overflow out bottom of bike??

Yes I can see the one vacuum line that has orange tape on it under the carbs attached to the manifolds then goes to the ECM, I have pulled both manifold and vacuum checked and all good but I will replace. These do not attach to the carb

I am one short if there are 4 vacuum lines.

How much of the rubber mat can be removed and should it be replaced when putting back together??

Thanks again for the help
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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Year: 1994
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Model: GL1500 I
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Yes I am aware of the correct mixture if going to ride but in several forums they suggest you run much higher than normal for short periods (five minutes) to pull concentrated or pure Sea Foam into Carbs. My experience is it will not eat up rubber O-rings and sometimes can get lucky and dissolve some of the shellac like build up on the idle screws. If I run longer at idle siphon high concentration mixture and add high oct only with recommend Sea Foam for normal operation.

Yes, forgot to mention new set of NGK's. Never have used anything but.

The left three cylinder plugs look great.

The right three cylinder plugs do not appear to be firing correctly. Not fouled but not clean like a new set should be. Pulled all three to check...same. Can reverse sides and plugs clear up on left but still not acceptable on right.

Will do the carb rebuild first and that will probable start last of this week.

Thanks for your help and comments..well taken
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Location: East Tennessee
Year: 1994
Make: Honda
Model: GL1500 I
Posts: 22
When I said right side does not appear to be firing correctly I am not assuming it is an electrical problem but rather the right carb. Will rebuild both while out. The plugs look like they are fouled but when move to left side clean up quickly.

I did not think of a firing problem on right side. I can pull plugs...ground and crank engine and all three plugs have good spark when looking in the dark.

The right intake manifold has a brown color in it like pooled gas that has evaporated over time and left residue and the left looks new inside.

Problem: Starts perfect..warm..remove choke..dies leave choke on after warm twist throttle dies immediately..use accelerator pumps to slowly get up to 3500 RPM's but when stop pumping throttle engine stops immediately.
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tnkrtoy View Post

How much of the rubber mat can be removed and should it be replaced when putting back together??

Thanks again for the help
1st, would you Pretty Please fill out your Profile so that we know your location???

This post is precisely why we need to know where you live....

If you live in Arizona, southern NM, or middle to south Texas, you need to replace that mat....

If you live further north, I would leave it off.

The purpose of it is to try and isolate the carbs from the heat that rises off the cylinders when the engine is hot and sitting still.

ie, you stop at the DQ and go inside, sit for 15 minutes, and go back out and expect your ride to start..... if that mat is gone, and you are in 105* weather, it probably won't... it will be vapor locked.


I used to live in Phoenix, AZ and had to work on my vacuum lines. When I bought my '94 it was a rotten mess down under.... I wanted to tear that mat out and get it gone.... but was talked out of that.

.

~ John


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