any clutch adj on 84 1200? - Page 5 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #41 of 62 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 09:29 AM
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I've full clutch operation within the first 1/4 to 1/5 of lever movement. I like it happening quick with only my middle and index fingers operating the lever at times.

It sat for a decade and you've been riding it without changing the clutch/brake fluids?
I must've misread that.

Would altering the engagement pin length at the basket change lever position? Slave or Master pin lengths?
Would adding a disc alter lever position?

...there must be a simple, practical way to reposition the engagement point relative to lever travel..?
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post #42 of 62 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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YES, CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT SHOULD BE "optimally"... in the MIDDLE of the clutch lever throw, more or less. but mine isn't. it is at the end of the throw, the last 1/2" of the lever movement. it doesn't slip...yet, but I don't rev it up much or slip the clutch any more than is necessary to get it to go and it is flat here, few hills to start off on that a person has to slip the clutch to get going. putting in a new brass bushing made the clutch engagement that much further out from the handlebar as the OLD clutch bushing was worn ALL THE WAY THROUGH the brass bushing and the bushing was egg shaped.


pin lengths are not adjustable, from what I can see. it looks like the clutch has been worked on at one time or another as there is clear silicone where the clutch cover is bolted to the back of the motor. im fairly sure the factory did not use silicone to seal the clutch cover plate on the back of the motor so it would appear that the clutch has been worked on before?


people cut/re-weld frames all the time, not recommended, of course; but...? the weld would not be thee same as the factory weld, but a competent welder could do a "good enough" job with a MIG welder. it is the heat affected area of the weld anyway that is weak, not necessarily the weld. the "heat affected area" is within 6" on either side of the weld. it is not my first choice, but $1500 to pull the motor to replace the $100 clutch discs is NOT going to happen and the ~1-1.5" that is in there between the clutch and the cross member to work is not enough room for MY HANDS, WITH TOOLS in there to work.


I will KNOW better on my NEXT BIKE to CHECK THE CLUTCH LEVER ENGAGEMENT!!!!!! IT SHOULD BE IN THE ~MIDDLE OF THE CLUTCH LEVER "throw" ... NOT AT THE VERY END OF THE CLUTCH LEVER THROW. Yes, I will change the fluid in the clutch, I don't see how that is going to make a world of difference, but I will do it. the wind is blowing ~40mph today and tmw, not a good day to go outside if we don't have to (no shop/garage).


Where does YOUR clutch ENGAGE... the ~MIDDLE of the clutch lever throw? or is that a new post/thread? thx
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post #43 of 62 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 06:01 PM
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Mike, what you fail to realize is, your clutch lever is working as it should. It does not engage mid point but in the last bit of movement. For whatever reason, that's the way the Honda engineers wanted it, because it's pretty much the same on all models with a hydraulic system.

Anyway, I don't think anything you do will help your cause. Go out and look at other similar systems. And believe us all here when we say, "you're tilting at windmills".

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post #44 of 62 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Myers View Post
YES, CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT SHOULD BE "optimally"... in the MIDDLE of the clutch lever throw, more or less. but mine isn't. it is at the end of the throw, the last 1/2" of the lever movement. it doesn't slip...yet, but I don't rev it up much or slip the clutch any more than is necessary to get it to go and it is flat here, few hills to start off on that a person has to slip the clutch to get going. putting in a new brass bushing made the clutch engagement that much further out from the handlebar as the OLD clutch bushing was worn ALL THE WAY THROUGH the brass bushing and the bushing was egg shaped.


pin lengths are not adjustable, from what I can see. it looks like the clutch has been worked on at one time or another as there is clear silicone where the clutch cover is bolted to the back of the motor. im fairly sure the factory did not use silicone to seal the clutch cover plate on the back of the motor so it would appear that the clutch has been worked on before?


people cut/re-weld frames all the time, not recommended, of course; but...? the weld would not be thee same as the factory weld, but a competent welder could do a "good enough" job with a MIG welder. it is the heat affected area of the weld anyway that is weak, not necessarily the weld. the "heat affected area" is within 6" on either side of the weld. it is not my first choice, but $1500 to pull the motor to replace the $100 clutch discs is NOT going to happen and the ~1-1.5" that is in there between the clutch and the cross member to work is not enough room for MY HANDS, WITH TOOLS in there to work.


I will KNOW better on my NEXT BIKE to CHECK THE CLUTCH LEVER ENGAGEMENT!!!!!! IT SHOULD BE IN THE ~MIDDLE OF THE CLUTCH LEVER "throw" ... NOT AT THE VERY END OF THE CLUTCH LEVER THROW. Yes, I will change the fluid in the clutch, I don't see how that is going to make a world of difference, but I will do it. the wind is blowing ~40mph today and tmw, not a good day to go outside if we don't have to (no shop/garage).


Where does YOUR clutch ENGAGE... the ~MIDDLE of the clutch lever throw? or is that a new post/thread? thx
Mine engages at the very end also. Has for more than 10 years and I bet it will at the end of this year as well. If you want it to release in the middle of stroke you could somehow replace the master with a smaller diameter. Seems like a lot of work for just moving the engagement point.

Just try to picture this in your mind. The clutch is brand new. When you push the push rod in to the clutch pack it releases with very little stroke. The rest of the stroke is just there and really does nothing more than open the clutch pack more than required. When you release the clutch most of the travel is used up closing the excess travel and the pack engages at the end.

So now as the clutch starts to wear the push rod comes OUT farther. It pushes some of the fluid back in to the master. That is the only difference. When you pull the clutch it still releases early (SAME AS BEFORE) and still the same amount of wasted stroke.

Now assume the clutch is worn out. The push rod comes out farther yet and pushes even more fluid back in the master. The clutch still releases as before. Still has the same wasted travel. Only thing is the clutch slips.
If you want to know if the clutch is worn out go try to slip it. Or try really pouring on the power in 5th gear. If the engine runs away from the rear wheel speed you have an issue. I think there is a better chance it will not. If I had to bet I would bet it is good. The clutches in those bikes are pretty tough.
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post #45 of 62 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 09:39 PM
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Slipping will more likely be the damper plate coming apart.
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File Type: jpg damperplate.jpg (79.1 KB, 16 views)

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post #46 of 62 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 09:48 PM
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Dennis my doctor says I only have severe bruising on my forehead but no concussion so I can still ride.

What does your doctor say?

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

Ken.
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post #47 of 62 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 10:05 PM
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post #48 of 62 (permalink) Old 03-29-2016, 11:16 PM
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Dennis my doctor says I only have severe bruising on my forehead but no concussion so I can still ride.
What does your doctor say?
My doctor referred me to a psychiatrist. He says I must be imagining this.

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post #49 of 62 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016, 02:17 AM Thread Starter
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I have put the bike in 5th and stoked the coal to her, no slipping... I didn't STOKE a LOT OF COAL to her as that would be wasted fuel, but enough that the rev's didn't run away, it just kept motoring on. it doesn't shudder/chatter; engages/disengages well enough, just at the end of the stroke of the clutch lever. maybe that is a sign... that I should just leav'er ... ALONE and ride the bike. oh, those head shrinkers, do we have to get started on that? why does it look so ez on Utube to get an 1800 up on the center stand???? did they make a "dog leg" of some sort on the 1800 to help ppl get the thing up on the center stand????


I read abt a guy who was shamed... when the salesman had his ~14 yr old daughter put a GL 1800 up on the centerstand with no problems; the guy was shamed as he had such a hard time getting his 1200 up on the centerstand; he just assumed that the other models were the same. Oh, I have seen the videos, they are nice, nice and ez. I invite them over to put my 1200 up on the center stand. yes, just STAND ON THE LEVER, SLIGHTLY PULL on the bracket on the side of the seat and up she comes, simple enough. mine doesn't have the side bracket, someone must have pilfered it? even if it did have the bracket, I think there would be a LOT OF LIFTING involved; so much LIFTING as to throw my back out. But that is me. I suppose I am just a little slow on the uptake on some things? I digress.
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post #50 of 62 (permalink) Old 03-30-2016, 05:50 AM
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Putting on the center stand. Do you have the correct size rear tire? Are the fork springs weak and sagging , or the air pressure low in the rear suspension? Any of of those will have the bike lower to the ground and cause an increase in effort to raise her up.
To check if the bike is to low, roll the rear wheel upon a 1/2" or 3/4" plywood ( or the like) then try to put on the center stand.IF you can get it up that way and it clears the rear wheel from the board ,I would look at the suspension being low.If its still difficult see below.

Another thought would be to make sure the center stand pivot is lubricated . You may actually have to remove it to clean the pivot shaft then lube and put back in place.

Have you look under the bike to see if the centerstand supports may be weak ,as in rusted and collapsing? If the bike has always been in your general area I would not suspect that. But if it came from a northern /rust belt state that too could be an issue.

Mike
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