tried to bleed clutch=no clutch now - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 08:40 AM
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make sure the small return hole in the reservoir is not plugged up - push a small wire thru it to make sure it's clear - that may be your problem... It's down at the bottom of the reservoir with a little silver metal piece in it...

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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 10:44 AM
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WAIT! the clutch fluid was low when you started? WHY? is your problem that air is getting past a bad seal in the slave?
that fluid doesnt disappear for no good reason~

Chances are that during your efforts the master got low enough to uncover the line and allowed air in.
Now you have to do as directed to burp the banjo, remove air from 1st point then move down the system. Very common problem, especially for noobs to this particular job of flushing the fluids.

TIP! if the bleeder valves feel loose in the threads when slightly opened, a small amount of bearing grease or Teflon tape, 1.5 - 2 wraps on the threads only- will seal thread based air leak as you attempt 1 man operations

I prefer grease here as Teflon tape is not made for multi-use, meaning its designed to go on threads 1 time-- and whatever part remains stationary and sealed.
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Myers View Post
E bay $21. 67 out of cali, it gets here when it gets here. have 1" plastic bore syringe, just need clear rubber/plastic hose...fish tank hose from WM? so I can see the bubbles? I just wonder how the simplest thing could have gone so badly? It wont even push fluid from the master when I pump it? how can that be? I don't THINK I let it run dry in the master? the simplest thing in the world
Mike, Read Ken's post. I had the exact same issue. The problem is the air will go to the highest place and stay there. With the handlebars straight ahead the banjo bolt is the highest. Air is trapped there and near impossible to get out. If you turn the bars to the right and even lean the bike ever so slightly to the right the master will be the highest and all air will be able to rise out of the system. Do exactly as he said and it will bleed. Or just do as he said and let it gravity bleed with the slave open and keep the master full. You will get some clutch then bleed as normal. That is the issue. I promise.

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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 08:49 PM
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Fonz, here is a chart for the size Speed Bleeders you need.
For the 1998 model you will need 3 SB8125L and 1 SB8125LL. That will take care of the brakes and clutch. I got the bleeder bag and hose also for another $6.00. Makes it easy to bleed with no mess as the bag catches all the old fluid and you can see the fluid or any bubbles coming out of the caliper
Thank you Bellboy. I did not see the application chart when I originally looked at the website. I have ordered a full set and cannot wait to try them.

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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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went back the next day, with helper to help keep the master full, with handle bars turned to keep master cyl level. the fluid was low, but not low enough to uncover any of the ports. I believe the clutch is WORN so the slave cyl piston is further down in the cyl thus taking more fluid out of the master cyl, that is why the fluid was a LITTLE low in the master cyl. just like the brake master cyl will go down when the brake pads wear down as the pistons in the calipers are pushed out more to grab the discs. brake master cyl low? baring leaks in the system, the brake pads are worn down n ...need replaced before the pistons gets cocked in the cylinder of the calipers and ruins the calipers...if they are not ruined by being pitted/rusted already.


got the 1" bore syringe (E bay 5 for $5 from HK) with right size of fuel hose on it (~1/8" ID) and 2 hose clamps to get it tight on the syringe and snug on the bleeder and started to PULL on the piston in the syringe. with a ~3.4" stroke it can pull quite a bit of vacuum/fluid, helper kept master full. clutch seems to be abt where it was to begin with ... finally. Cant see the bubbles coming through the black fuel hose, but it is easier (for me) to find (I had it already) and really do not need to see the bubbles... the clutch/brakes are going to work or they are NOT. suck enough fluid through the system... I WOULD think IT HAS TO WORK, yes.


I was thinking about reverse bleeding it, fill the syringe with brake fluid, bleed the line from syringe to the bleeder, put hose on the bleeder, have someone ready with another syringe/rag at the master to suck out the excess fluid and PUSH the fluid from the slave cyl through to the master. BUT WHAT A MESS THAT WOULD BE... especially on a NICE BIKE. Brake fluid is very HARD ON PAINT. I would have saved that as a last resort.


the gravity thing might have worked...with time. I opened the bleeder, before testing the clutch from leaving it sit overnight, (D'oh), and the slave was full again. I read somewhere that ppl can tap the slave cyl while bleeding to free up bubbles in the calipers on vehicles as bubbles can get trapped in the calipers and tapping the calipers helps free the bubbles?


I was careful with the Teflon tape to not get it over the port on the bleeder thing. the thing abt the Teflon tape is that a person has to put a wrench on the bleeder to loosen/tighten it, where without the Teflon tape a person can do it with their hands and it is probably tight enough for the bleed process? speedbleeders would be a fine thing. but without the Teflon tape it sucks air past the threads, which with a clear (aquarium?) hose, a person is constantly seeing little bubbles and wonders if it is bleeding right or not. sometimes it might take more than one process to get all the bubbles out of the system? time will tell; for now, it seems ok.
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 08:59 PM
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if the bleeder threads are sealed properly with teflon tape or bearing grease, then no bubbles get past there during bleeding
Its normal to use a small wrench to tight and loosen bleeder.

clear plastic hose is preferred for a reason! seeing the bubbles~

Did you do the burp at the master banjo bolt holding line on? got to start there or forever battle trapped bubbles
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 09:20 PM
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Mike,
You are just determined that the clutch is worn out. I am betting you have lots of car wrenching done in your life. Then you would be correct on all accounts. That does not transfer to your bike. When the clutch is brand new the clutches "lifter rod" will extend farther in to the clutch. That will mean the chamber in the slave will be larger as the piston will also be farther in. That is when it hold the most fluid. As the clutch wears the lifter will move out of the clutch and push the lifter and piston back. When the clutch is completely worn out the slave cylinder will actually hold the smallest amount of fluid as the lifter has pushed the slave piston back as far as it can. .

Your bike has no marcel spring in the clutch like cars do. That too will have an effect on when the clutch engages. It is just a completely different animal. Check this out...


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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 09:41 PM
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More than likely the lost dot4 went into the crank case via the slave. In which case the slave is in need of rebuilding/replacement of the soft parts. If it were me I'd do the master at the same time.



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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 09:44 PM
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I've read that there is a seal behind the slave unit that if worn may allow clutch fluid to get into the engine oil. You won't see any fluid leaking, but you will find your master getting low on fluid.
Something to check if you take off the slave.
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 11:51 PM
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Pretty sure there is a seal on the brake fluid side and a seal on the engine side with a void between them with a weep hole. Just like the water pump, if the seal fails it will leak out the weep hole. I could be wrong though. Very minuscule leaks can be almost impossible to detect. Especially clear brake fluid.
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