GL1500 starts after releasing button solved - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-27-2016, 05:29 PM
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Yes, a simple voltage drop test from the Battery Positive post to the Starter Terminal post, should hopefully be less than a volt drop, closer to 1/2 volt would be better. Zero Volt drop would be best, but that is impossible.

that would include all connections, relay contacts, etc...

if excessive, then divide and conquer, battery post to the middle, "too much"? trouble in between the two meter leads.
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-02-2017, 06:53 AM
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Let me say this about this relay install that I just completed. First off Erdeniz is a real gentleman. He helped me from start to finish with everything from getting the relay to how to wire it in so that it would work correctly and boy does it. I use to think that with my AGM battery, the bike started much better than it use to. Now with this relay install, it starts even faster than before. I just touch the starter button and within milie seconds the bike fires right off. If it turns over more than 2 or 3 times before starting it's a lot. Even with a low battery you can get it to start with very few revolutions. No more holding the starter button then releasing it so it starts, this is instantaneous starting.

If you have an hour or two to spare someday and you want your 1500 to start warm or cold much faster than it use to, you got to try this simple install. It really does work that good and for about 10 dollars, you can't beat it. Look luck to all of you that try this thing.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 05:52 PM
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Just finished this modification on my 88 GL1500. Works great and easy to do. Thanks Erdeniz!
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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Just for a note for a later update on the modification, here is the new location of the relay I have added.
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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 09:08 AM
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Erdeniz,

You could also make this a security system by adding a switch in series with the fuse. Hide the switch anyplace and when open .......no start. DPDT switch and a light/LED to let you know the switch is open or "alarm set".
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Erdeniz,

You could also make this a security system by adding a switch in series with the fuse. Hide the switch anyplace and when open .......no start. DPDT switch and a light/LED to let you know the switch is open or "alarm set".
Or a remote control circuit could be cool.
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Last edited by Erdeniz Umman; 05-29-2019 at 04:20 PM.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 07:07 PM
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Also if the light is on and if the start button is pressed (kinda sounds like a logic circuit) you could drive a relay to sound the horn or a siren. Of course this would only happen after being set by remote control.
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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 07:46 PM
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Hi Erdeniz:

Let me say that I really love your job, you always come up with brilliant solutions.

Before I started to make this change, went back to re-read all post in this thread and …

After taking the tupperware off and finding the C57 connector(as per your post), I found it's a tight and hard working space

Also took into consideration the DBohrer comment, road dirt, condensation, age, (page #3-0 and #12-3 of Electrical Troublesooting Manual), I added/mixed up both ideas and came up with this:


I decide that there is a better location (for myself) and easier place to work at C54 low side where +B will be going direct to coils; yes more tupperware to remove, but a lot more free space, so that is where I’m working right now, probably it’ll be finish by tomorrow.
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Last edited by gipsy42; 06-26-2019 at 07:48 PM. Reason: adding CR for clearance
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 03:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gipsy42 View Post
Hi Erdeniz:

Let me say that I really love your job, you always come up with brilliant solutions.

Before I started to make this change, went back to re-read all post in this thread and …

After taking the tupperware off and finding the C57 connector(as per your post), I found it's a tight and hard working space

Also took into consideration the DBohrer comment, road dirt, condensation, age, (page #3-0 and #12-3 of Electrical Troublesooting Manual), I added/mixed up both ideas and came up with this:


I decide that there is a better location (for myself) and easier place to work at C54 low side where +B will be going direct to coils; yes more tupperware to remove, but a lot more free space, so that is where I’m working right now, probably it’ll be finish by tomorrow.
Gipsy, since I don't know the details of your project, I am not sure about any side effects will occur or not.

In my solution I tried to keep the original configuration as much as possible, and fed the input voltage of the ECU and the coils at the same time, because I didn't know the algorithm and the circuit design inside.

So good luck and share the results please.

Last edited by Erdeniz Umman; 06-27-2019 at 04:19 AM.
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-29-2019, 10:36 AM
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The issue is drop of voltage (power) to the ignition coils (not to the ECM).

It is not necessary to provide direct battery voltage to the ECM. Voltage (power) from the normal configured circuit to the ECM is just fine.

Doing the mod at the C54 as compared to the C57 will accomplish the same good results....!!
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