GL1100 carb synchronisation: Important hint - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by CaptainMidnight85 View Post
Sloppy Linkage?
Is that what he's talking about?
...a inherent-by-design sloppy-linkage issue with the carburetors?
...damn, that ain't good.
.
That is the reason for the springs forcing the throttles toward open, to make up for that slack. In the OP he says the left one pulls it closed. Unless he somehow installed it wrong, like he did the right side, it does not.
..gotcha.
..thought that was what's going on.
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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I think, some things become confused, so I try to explain again what I want to say:

1.) Sorry, I did not check it exactly when writing the OP: The left spring pulls also to open. But that does not make the slightest difference. The only important fact is that it pulls in the same direction from idle to full throtte to make up for the slack from idle to full throttle. And that is what the left does.

2.) The right small spring ORIGINALLY pulls also in the open direction. I know that! And I changed it deliberately so that it now pulls in the close direction!

3.) I DO NOT have a sync problem anymore! I HAD the problem that I could achieve wonderful sync during idle, but the engine came noticably (and well visible at the gauges) out of sync when opening the throttles.

4.) Yes, there is ever slack in the linking rods and it has to be there, otherways it would clamp. Maybe the slack on my old lady has become more but that doesn't matter because of the pretension springs.

5.) I think I found out the reason for the engine running out of sync when opening the throttle: From a certain throttle position on the accelarator pump pulls the right throttle in the close direction and it is stronger than the small spring pulling to open. The slack in the linking rods now lets the right carbs be closer than the left carbs because they now are pulled to close instead to open as they were during idle. The slack becomes a problem!

6.) Yes, I think this is a built-in problem, and -yes- I assume that even Honda engineers do not ever construct seamlessly perfect product and that sometime one can improve things...

OK ;-) ?

And nobody needs to beleive me, I only wanted to impart what I think I found out and what helped to improve the sync at my old lady ;-)
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 03:34 PM
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i must say syncing carbs on a gold wing is very very easy for me.

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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 03:35 PM
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I can understand the problem you have but your linkage must be really loose to cause that. Are the plastic bushings in the linkage rods missing?

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post #25 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 05:42 PM
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...and I believe you have solved whatever problem you had with your rack to your satisfaction.
I've a very nice rack in working order in front of me.

I've another question > that rack you have ...where did it come from? You buy it or did it come with the bike?

If what you are saying, and having verified some success through trial, ...then why would Honda not turn a left-hand twist spring along with a right-hand twist spring?
If the spring had the correct twist (as yours apparently now does?), then what you've done is what they should've done?

I'm trying to avoid looking at that rack of mine any more...
Are there left- and right-hand springs on them racks?
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 05:04 AM Thread Starter
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To check the whole situation a bit closer I now measured the slack in the linking rod.
To do that, I mounted a dial gauge with the tip at the lever of the throttle shaft (see photo) and set it to zero. Then I pushed slightly against the lever. The slack was clearly noticable. The gauge showed 20 hundrets of a millimeter = 0.2mm.
Now please compare: The adjustment screws have a 0.6 mm thread. That means that one turn makes up 0.6mm. That means that the slack in the linking, if coming into play, de-syncs your carbs as much as 1/3 turn of the sync screw would do!
We all know that a third turn of the sync screw is very very noticable and lets the engine run very uneven.

I think the only reason why that issue is not so noticable is the fact that this effect (which is caused by the accelerator pump) starts only when throttle is a little bit open and the de-sync effect ist no more that much noticable.
@DaveO430 : Thank you for the hint, but the bushings are there. Maybe if they were new, the effect would be less, but the problem remains (if the right spring is not turned).
@CaptainMidnight85 : Why would Honda not mount the neutral switch at a place where we could change it w/o dismounting the whole engine? Why does Honda build the neutral switch in a way that the lamp sometimes glows permanently? Why would Honda not mount the central stand in a way that it does not bend? And so on... I think even Honda does not construct every part of every bike perfectly... And we have sometimes the chance to improve things ;-) Like here at the carbs...
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post #27 of 27 (permalink) Old 05-18-2016, 06:04 AM
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Why would Honda not mount the neutral switch at a place where we could change it w/o dismounting the whole engine? Why does Honda build the neutral switch in a way that the lamp sometimes glows permanently? Why would Honda not mount the central stand in a way that it does not bend? And so on... I think even Honda does not construct every part of every bike perfectly... And we have sometimes the chance to improve things ;-) Like here at the carbs...
Could be they didn't account for them still being around after 30 years but that is a good indicator of the quality they built into them.

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