"How-To"-- Making your own 5mm carb sync adapters, easy. - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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"How-To"-- Making your own 5mm carb sync adapters, easy.

This "How-To" is meant to show crunch time adaptation. If you have time, by all means order some sync adapters. I am going to give you a good chance to be finished, and hopefully back on the road today.


You can skip my recollection of the ah-ha moment, and go straight to the materials list and instructions if you like. But that's no fun is it. The instructions start with the red text below if you must.

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This week I did two things. First, I rebuilt a set of 1984 GL1200 carbs (dirtiest, closest to gone carbs I have ever seen overall), then I made a homemade Manometer. I would need it to sync the carbs in the end. I used the concept shown here to build my Manometer:
I like this setup a lot. Almost ME proof.

After getting everything cleaned, surfaced, polished and assembled, I then bench synced the rack and reinstalled it. Things were moving much smoother than the funk I started with. After setting up the base adjustments on the carbs I felt really good, the bike was running very well. Then I hit a brick wall. I have flexible tubes, that aren't heat resistant by any means, that need to be connected via a threaded connection to a hot motor.

Now there are plenty of "3-day from now" solutions that can be purchased online. They discuss some here:https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...s-nipples.html

Additionally, you can buy adapters on Amazon here:



The mistake I made that led to this: I made assumptions based on other carbs I worked with in the past, with nipples built into boots. I wasn't prepared. So 2-1/2 hours wasted going to every hardware store, craft store and hobby shop in town I had about five options in hand, all had to be drilled to allow vacuum through. Found some nice 5mm X 10mm studs at Lowes in the specialty drawers, but I was kinda bummed.

Then it came to me like a whisper while standing in the aisle at Lowes, that I already had the 5mm adapter I needed, at least I was pretty sure I did anyway. They were sitting in front of me the whole time. The kit my buddy ordered to rebuild his carbs had two sizes of main jets, undersized 108's in addition to the 125's I wasn't going to use anyway (I reused the OEM's that I cleaned, and trusted). Threaded, 5mm and already have holes in them. The jets just happen to be the adapters needed to bring everything together.

Options have now opened up from everywhere, all of a sudden!! Welcome back to today!
  • These "adapters" are available at any cycle shop. Sunday and Monday you are SOL. Should be options among options here, which may allow for a real smooth Manometer if you get the jet in just the right size.
  • If you used new jets in your carb rebuild, you have old ones already.
  • If you bought the "inferior" rebuild kit, you have plenty of extras. Again, I chose to clean and reuse stock parts rather than take chances with spec on kit parts. Up to you. CLR and Chem-Dip are an awesome team.


On with the build!

List of material shown in image below (using Lowes item numbers):
  • If you have a brake line flare tool (I couldn't locate mine), skip the barbed connectors. This is what I had immediately on hand, so I used them.
  • #1 in image---1/4"x 2' copper pipe #: 43474
  • #2 in image---108 Jet x 5mm
  • #3 in image---Vacuum port screw from carb
  • #4 in image---5/16" barbed fitting #: 645810
  • #5 in image---1/4" barbed adapter #: 645660
  • #6 & #7 are optional for widening jet. More on that in a minute
Materials laid out


Additional materials needed/used:
  • Torch, or soldering iron
  • Solder, I used electrical type. You can use whatever you have, flux...
  • Random locking pliers
  • #4? Phillips screwdriver, or similar.
  • ***If you don't have a torch/soldering iron or solder, or you want to avoid this for whatever reason, JB Weld, Q-Bond or Double-Bubble Epoxy will do.

Cutting the copper pipe I will leave to you, I used a Dremel tool to lop off a +/- 6" pc.. A pipe cutter works well but goes against the flair we are going to add to one end of the pipe.

With the 1/4" barbed connector, we tap it into the end of a 6" to 10" piece of pipe with the handle of a screwdriver, while resting the other end of the pipe on a hard surface, or my knee:



The objective is to start flaring the end out.


Continue flaring end with larger diameter fitting:


This is what we are looking for:




Now, depending on the sensitivity of your Manometer you may want to keep the jet size small. I chose to open them up a bit. You can't go back after drilling. You can, however, drill after initial test run if not getting enough flow:


Now we solder the jet to the flared pipe. Take care not to burn yourself or anything in your home. Use your pliers to hold the flared pipe vertical. Set the jet into the flared end, flush with the rim of pipe and threads facing up. The use of small gauge solder is easier to work. Do not solder the threads or you will need to chase them prior to use. Heat the work, not the solder!


Let the pipe cool for a couple minutes, and you will end up with a mostly ready to use adapter.


All that remains is to take your Phillips screwdriver and make the other end as round as possible. I stick the tip of the driver into the pipe and apply pressure while rotating. It is effective at making true the end so that your Manometer piping (fish tank tubing?) will slide easily inside. It will inevitably become slightly deformed if you pound objects into the other end. Additionally, most importantly, make sure the finished pipe is completely free from copper shavings. Now it is a simple matter of sliding your hose into or over the adapter, pushing snugly and attaching the adapter to the vacuum port, using the washer that is already there.






If you have read through this and have any questions, please feel free to ask. The pictures taken were not meant to be part of a build tutorial originally, it was secondary, so if there are any details that anyone needs please ask in the thread, so all may benefit.

This build is not as easy as placing an order online but is far easier than drilling through small screws or studs. I like making things work, maybe you do too?!

If you make em, show em off!

Do not highly polish the finished product before posting pics with 4000 grit, that will anger me tremendously!!


Good luck,

StevetotheH
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 09:35 AM
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Thanks Steve.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 12:52 PM
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Or cut a piece of 3/16 inch brake/copper tube and run a 5mm die down it a short way. Screw on a nut and put on an o-ring to insure a good seal. Screw in carb by finger pressure only.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
Or cut a piece of 1/4 inch brake/copper tube and run a 5mm die down it a short way. Screw on a nut and put on an o-ring to insure a good seal. Screw in carb by finger pressure only.
Yep, but it's actually 3/16 brake line.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveO430 View Post
Yep, but it's actually 3/16 brake line.
I wasn't sure about it when I was writing but I talked myself in to the wrong thing. I'll go back and fix that...
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Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 02:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
Or cut a piece of 3/16 inch brake/copper tube and run a 5mm die down it a short way. Screw on a nut and put on an o-ring to insure a good seal. Screw in carb by finger pressure only.
Price of cheap tap and die set alone is 5x the cost of materials in my build. I agree everyone should own a basic set, but not everyone does. Kinda going for a low budget, "should be easy for all" kinda thing. Additional options are always nice to have in any case.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-19-2016, 08:36 AM
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OR buy a stud of the right thread pitch/diameter run a two nuts to the center lock them together..drill a hole down the center and you are done..having a drill press helps but not required..steady hand is..use the nuts as the point to hold the thing steady while drilling and when down add an o ring to side you screw into the intake to make sure the seal is good. If you can't find a stud you can always buy a bolt and cut the head off..and use that end for the tube and the good end for the intake side.

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