Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: UFO's R Us, North Mexico
Year: 84 GL 1200
Model: 84 Aspencade
seems like the questions for me would be: do we have to take the radiator off to do the work (it is easier with the radiator off than on, but can be done with radiator on, on 1200 I read). getting / keeping the timing EXACTLY RIGHT...fortunately the timing cam belt "sprockets" have UP cast into them AND little marks on the side of the cam belt "sprockets" that match LITTLE marks on the belt guards. I would clean the UP and the LITTLE side marks on the cam drive with alcohol and PAINT THEM WHITE SO NO MISTAKES!!!! I would CLEAN AND PAINT/marker around the bolt head on the timing bolt tensioners, that way (presuming that the original belts were the right tension to begin with) when we go back together with it, the belt tensioners mounting area will already have an "imprint" of where they should be? so we don't hv to "reinvent the wheel," y/n? the timing tension bolt torque, on 1200, is 19 FT/LB
Before removal of belts, GET A REAL GOOD FEEL FOR THE BELT TENSION on the LONG SIDE (bottom) of the belts, it is like 3-5mm (1/8-3/16" with 2kg /4.4# of force) of belt play (for 1200). if belts are TOO TIGHT the belts whine (wings are whiners?), if TOO LOOSE the belts slap the case.. JUMP TIME=catastrophic engine damage. have to rotate the motor, with the bolt on the front of the crankshaft, back and fourth to check that got the timing right and to put tension/remove tension? to can check the "tightness" of the belt on the long side so it is just so.... rotate the motor (1200 Service Manual reads 40 degrees both ways) (easier with plugs out) and recheck check timing. there should be a timing mark on the main CRANK drive pulley on the front of the crankshaft also, I would CLEAN/PAINT THAT TOO that too so NO MISTAKES. when it is all over I would mark the outside of the case with something HARD so that they next owner will know when the belts were changed. every 5 yrs or ??? miles. Engraver? BELT REPLACEMENT DONE JULY-2016
Book reads to take the plug out of the top of the motor to check the T1 Mark on the...and keep it there, there are several marks in there for setting timing at various RPM's; don't confuse the marks. on the 1200 the cam drive sprocket wants to turn without belt tension on it, so when remove the belt, the cam drive "sprocket" turns on its own from valve spring pressure with engine at TDC of #1 piston... IT IS important THAT A PERSON (SOMEHOW) either prevents that from happening (?) OR gets it back where it is supposed to be before putting the new belt on the "sprocket" (it cant be that hard to get the "sprocket" to turn with our hands to put the new belt on? AND/OR when we release the tensioner the cam "sprocket" will automatically turn with the OLD BELT ON IT; ok, no problem, let it do its thing...then gently slide the old belt off/slide the new belt on, retighten the tensioner and IT SHOULD pull the cam "sprocket" back to where it was with the old belt, YES/no?) triple check the work.
if I cld, I would take a hacksaw blade and make little marks on the side of the cam "sprockets" and on the case so I would KNOW EXACTLY where the CAM "sprockets" were to be, Y/n? yes, stress risers...negligible in this case? I have read in other posts that previous ppl have had problems getting the cam sprockets PERFECT with the marks on the case after a belt change (they were ~1/2 a tooth off), but it worked??? variations in belt manufacturing? quality control? the group consensus was, if it works...don't fix it, y/n?
rockauto.com has the belts for the 1200 @ ~$20 for 2 of them Gates 070 I believe the belt nbs are; they have Goldwing parts section, amazing enuf. I was going to call the shop and ask them how much to do it, just to ask. of course they are all booked up till xmas and would rather work ON .... REAL MEN RIDE... VESPA's!!!! 300 GTS (a paltry, not poultry, ~$10,000?)