GL1000 restore. No matter how long it takes - Page 13 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #121 of 320 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Year: 2004,1975
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I cleaned and inspected the wiring harness today. It looks quite good. Cleaned all the contacts with DEoxit. I have heard good and bad about that product, but I found it invaluable working on the electrics of my 1981 corvette. So everything is getting cleaned with it. Laid it back on the bike.

I tore apart the coil assembly because it was a rusty dirt filled lump. Treating them like gold. I should put it on the frame tomorrow
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post #122 of 320 (permalink) Old 09-26-2016, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Front wheel bearing HELP. I was moving the front wheel around and realized the axle on the speedo side moves a couple of mm's in any direction. I can't believe there should be any movement in the axels?

Is that right?

I will tear the bearings out and inspect in the next few days
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post #123 of 320 (permalink) Old 09-27-2016, 08:25 PM
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With that much play I think you'd feel it going down the road.

You'll have a nice bike when your done.

The LORD is my light and my salvation--so why should I be afraid? The LORD is my fortress, protecting me from danger, so why should I tremble?

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post #124 of 320 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 11:09 PM
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Hopefully your front axle play is just a toasted bearing, Nachi bearings (made in Japan) are excellent cheap replacements & readily available online: front wheel (2) 6302-2NSE , rear wheel (1) 6204-2NSE & (1) 6304-2NSE These are rubber sealed on both sides, unlike the open sided OE bearings.

You must extract that neutral switch if you haven't yet..there's a (discontinued) o-ring behind the switch holding it tight, get some visegrips on that dude & twist! The old one can be cleaned (soaked) in gas or solvent to get the crud out..it has a hole in it..work it manually..or replace with a new one, around $50 & OE usually comes with the elusive o-ring..that green light will come back to haunt you & it's nearly impossible to access once the motor's back in the frame..

Been following this thread, you are an inspiration to us all! I recently replaced my motor (threw a rod after 133K miles) got a used EBay engine with only 10.5K miles on it..overhauled it (but didn't crack the case)..she runs like new, 150PSI on all 4 cylinders!
Now I feel like a schmoe for not threading that procedure like you are doing!

One more thing, what magical polish are you using on your covers & such.? ..they are cleaning up nicely!
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post #125 of 320 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 11:23 PM
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..and one more bit of wisdom through bitter experience..when you install the new water pump,
clean/polish the bore it sits in..but DO NOT HONE it out, it'll leak (new cover time)..
(more waiting)
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post #126 of 320 (permalink) Old 09-29-2016, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Hopefully your front axle play is just a toasted bearing, Nachi bearings (made in Japan) are excellent cheap replacements & readily available online: front wheel (2) 6302-2NSE , rear wheel (1) 6204-2NSE & (1) 6304-2NSE These are rubber sealed on both sides, unlike the open sided OE bearings.
Hopefully I will get a chance to take apart the wheel bearings tomorrow and see what the issue is. I will take lots of pictures.
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post #127 of 320 (permalink) Old 09-29-2016, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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One more thing, what magical polish are you using on your covers & such.? ..they are cleaning up nicely!
Magic 80 grit paper, 120, 180 240 400 600 1000 1500 buffing wheel with red rouge, then white rouge. Not magic -- just mind numbing hours of sanding!!! The sandpaper alone costs a fortune. If I charged for my time they would probably cost $5k a piece to polish. It has to be a labor for love.
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post #128 of 320 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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The new steering bearing came it. No problem installing them. Same as last time, heated the bearings with a heat gun and then pounded them home with a pipe. Waiting for the forks and wheel.
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post #129 of 320 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Front wheel bearings.

The one wheel bearing is definitely shot. There is a few MM's of play in the inner part of the bearing. So replacements, they seem cheep enough, but I need another tool.

HELP: Anyone have any hints on how to make a tool for the bearing retainer nut? I briefly tapped it with a drift and nothing, except I found out it was very soft. I read in an article to that it would be staked, and it was, and to drill them out. I have done that.
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post #130 of 320 (permalink) Old 09-30-2016, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Never mind, I made one -- I am loosing sockets on this job at an alarming rate.

The tool slipped a lot in those little slots and messed up the retainer ring pretty good. I believe it is made out of aluminum. That seems strange, but in any event, it is very soft and gets messed up really easy. I will go on the hunt for a replacement.

So what is the split bolt in the picture you ask. A remarkable tool to remove blind bearings. I would have never been able to do this without an article I found on the web. I may be breaking rules, but the article is shown in the link below. It describes how you wedge that bolt in the bearing with a screwdriver and then drive the bearing out. I got it after about four or five tries. I heard the heavens cry when it worked so well. That is a trick I have never used and it was new for me. How did people ever survive without the internet -- I remember trying to do a corvette in the 80's and constantly running head on into my own ignorance. Maybe that was better because now I think I can do anything -- and hence the motorcycle that I have in boxes in my basement.

The bearings were a great big ball of rust. One was obviously bad and the other seemed to operate OK, but they were both filled with rust. This was a "since I'm there" I am very happy I did.



This is the link to the article about removing the wheel bearings. I hope I can keep it here. It is on another website, but it is still a great article with lots of good info. Good is Good!
http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=69

If you look at the pic to the right, you can see the bolt in the bearing being wedged into the bearings. Then you hammer the bolt forcing the bearing out. If you look in the picture you can see the bearing is about half way out.
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