GL1000 restore. No matter how long it takes - Page 15 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #141 of 320 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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Year: 2004,1975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erdeniz Umman View Post
Can it be a part from a gas pump nozzle?

Something like blue and green piece in the picture?
Perhaps. Not sure what it is. I assume it's not a part of the bike, so heave it and move on
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post #142 of 320 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Carshandco View Post
Wajulia, don't overlook your 1/2" drive (round) breaker bar when removing the wheel bearings. Mine fits (barely) through the bore of the bearings: stick the ass end of it through one bearing , then down through the collar, wiggle the collar & get a bite on the edge of the other bearing...drive it out with a (heavy) steel hammer..usually pops right out (and the breaker bar so far tolerates the abuse!)
Thanks. sounds like a good way to get them out
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post #143 of 320 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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I spent the day wandering around the Hershey swap meet. Literally hundreds of tons of rusty gold. There were a few Honda's. Mostly really old stuff low displacement stuff that I'm not very interested in

Every time I go to motorcycle swap meets, all I find is Harley, Harley, Harley and one Honda guy.

Question, are there any good Honda swap meets in the east coast?
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post #144 of 320 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Front wheel is on. No real issues. When I put the speedometer on it rubbed on the collar. It turned out that as I removed the bolts, the socket made some small divets. Those bolts don't have quite enough space to put a socket on them. Banged the divots out and everything went together nicely.

I need to buy a new speedo cable, the old one was broken off near the speedo. Might have been the old grease in the speedo had gummed up so badly that you could barely spin. I cleaned all the old grease out and replaced it. Turns great now
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post #145 of 320 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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I put the wheel on this morning so I could put the engine back in

My son came over to help. Went pretty good. At first I put the left frame rail on the engine thinking we could line it up wit the bolts and slide it in. It turned out that there was just to much to get aligned. Took the left frame rail off, guided the engine into the right engine mount, put the bolt in. Then put the left frame on and everything lined right up. 10 minutes later all the engine mounts were in and tight
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post #146 of 320 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 06:31 PM
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When you put the wheel on for good,the bottom caps will tighten up so there's no gap in the front,the back will have a small gap and the arrow goes toward the front.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
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post #147 of 320 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pure Texas View Post
When you put the wheel on for good,the bottom caps will tighten up so there's no gap in the front,the back will have a small gap and the arrow goes toward the front.
I must admit i don't understand all that. I followed the craymers manual procedure that said
1) all arrows pointing forward
2) torque all four on the left side
3) on the right side, tighten the front bolts which will leave a gap in the back
4) torque the back nuts

What is that all about. What is the purpose of the gap?
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post #148 of 320 (permalink) Old 10-08-2016, 07:57 PM
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To allow the axel to be secured ( the gap) otherwise if both were tight with no gap there might be a chance the hole in the fork might get wallowed out and the axel could be loose( I'm sure it's just Hondas way of fool proofing things),torque the axel before tightening the caps.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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post #149 of 320 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Upper engine mount on and the engine sensor harness put back on..
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post #150 of 320 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
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The battery tray is back in. This took a while. A big rotted rust ball. Lots of little stuff, the starter relay, capacitor for the ignition timing and the 30 amp fuse. All had to come apart and get cleaned up, painted and put back in. I attached a before and after, but I don't think it shows how bad the original was.

After I got the frame all by itself, I soaked it in a baking soda, water solution for a couple of hours to neutralize any battery acid. Hopefully that stops and further decay.
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