1500/6 foot brake no pressure - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
RH2
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Year: 1988
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Model: 1500/6
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1500/6 foot brake no pressure

I have an 88 1500/6. not riding enough so a punishment it drives me crazy by loosing hydraulic pressure in foot brake pedal. If bleed f/b brake caliper works fine, but after sitting 7-8 months loose it again.
No fluid is missing and no puddles on floor. Is this an alien visit issue
as I've seen used here ? Last time I used vacuum pump got lot of small air bubbles out. thought I solved. I saw a post about tie down pedal overnight to let trapped air out. so thinking with time that air is seeping and gathering at high point at front brake hose. Should I try tie down pedal and bleed that way??? Oh when working do have a bit of excess pedal travel. will low pads cause either of this? [how many miles expect from pads, have about 10k on these] pumping pedal does not help. Bike only has 44k miles, I bought 10 yrs ago at 34k---- yeah I know. Doesn't help $/mi service work, accessories.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 08:13 PM
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Unfortunately the master is almost certainly the culprit. The cups are no longer resilient and when you push the pedal down the fluid goes right by the seal and returns to the master reservoir. Might try stabbing the brake a few times in hopes you can make the seal "grab" but you will probably be revisiting the issue until you repair it permanently.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-10-2016, 08:37 PM
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Are you bleeding the (left?) front first? If you don't, air bubbles can hide in that line.

Welcome to the forum.

Why ain't we ridin'?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2016, 10:58 AM
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I would start by completely bleeding the rear brake system (which includes the left front brake caliper).

Remove the old fluid from the rear brake master cylinder. Refill with new DOT 4 brake fluid.

Bleed the left front caliper first.

Bleed the rear brake caliper second.

You may need to do this a couple of times to get all the air out of the system. (Doing more than once is not uncommon)

If this does not get results, then follow recommendations from redwing52.

Easy things first..................!!

Oh, How many miles to get from brake pads largely depends on quality of pads and brake use. Some folks are easy on brakes while others are not easy on brakes. Engine braking helps extend brake pad life.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2016, 12:02 PM
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I had the same problem. Replaced the master cylinder kit and new brake lines. Seems to have worked but it's only been @ 3 months
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2016, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBohrer View Post

Oh, How many miles to get from brake pads largely depends on quality of pads and brake use. Some folks are easy on brakes while others are not easy on brakes. Engine braking helps extend brake pad life.
I rarely apply brakes until I am around 30 mph or so....
makes a lot of difference in pad life.

~ John


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2016, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
RH2
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that sounds logical. So would it make sense then that the seals are "grabbing" when I do the bleed and then collapse after time because just sitting/ not being used? which then leads to theory that once I bleed the brakes keep riding the *** thing and I won't have to service master lol
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2016, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RH2 View Post
that sounds logical. So would it make sense then that the seals are "grabbing" when I do the bleed and then collapse after time because just sitting/ not being used? which then leads to theory that once I bleed the brakes keep riding the *** thing and I won't have to service master lol
Might last a while but it won't get more resilient with time of course

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2016, 03:51 PM
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One of the things about the front-rear brake system is that air will get caught in the front line because it goes down the up then down. The trick I have told others is to get a one-man Bleeder from somewhere like AutoZone. Then put something heavy on the brake pedal pushing it all the way down or tie it down. I just use a sledge hammer and let it sit for 5 or 6 hours. What you will notice is that usually a large air bubble will be in the one-man brake bleeder hose. Ok some things I forgot to say put the one-man bleeder on the bike but tie it up so it is above the caliper and open the valve so the fluid will flow into the hose. Always bleed the front brake first then the back truly it works much better if you do so.
As for the front brake open the reservoir use paper towels to get all the fluid out then clean out all the black junk you will find in the bottom of the reservoir. Then fill it back up with new fluid and bleed the brakes. A lot of the gunk finds its way back up the lines into the reservoir and that can end up plugging the return hole. When you bleed the front brake all you do is push that gunk into the hose and believe me it will percolate back into the reservoir.
I actually recommend to all Wingers I know to empty the reservoir and clean it at the beginning of every riding season. Then you just fill it back up with clean fluid and let it sit for 10 to 20 minutes any air will percolate back up into and there is no need to bleed the brakes, But whatever you do don't pull the brake lever until at least 10 to 20 minutes have passed!!!

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-11-2016, 03:55 PM
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Some times its best to try the easiest options first.

What will you loose by doing a complete system bleed then go from there.

There is bleeding then there is bleeding......depends on the wrench.......!!!! (No offense intended)

It could very well be the seals but I wouldn't jump there first.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RH2 View Post
that sounds logical. So would it make sense then that the seals are "grabbing" when I do the bleed and then collapse after time because just sitting/ not being used? which then leads to theory that once I bleed the brakes keep riding the *** thing and I won't have to service master lol
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