Stainless brake line nightmare - Page 5 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #41 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-27-2016, 06:50 PM
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I think you mean (tipping hat in Gentlemanly way and backing out of the room slowly)

Im sure those while-you-wait places make fine short lines for cars, a simple here to there hose at the wheels.
Kind of like 1 hour eye glasses..eh, they're close enough
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post #42 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 12:05 AM
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I know this has been beat to death so I will say one more thing then I'm done. What you have will work except for one of two things.

I think it is a given it needs a bubble flare at the end. My question then is if it had that bubble flare would the nut tighten before it ran out of threads. If the nut bottoms out and you have the right flare it still will not work.

If the nut does not bottom you or take it somewhere that they can put a bubble flare on it and be done.
I am assuming the nut turns in the threads so any adapter must have the same size and thread pitch on the male and female to work. So an adapter that is AN, SAE or even JIC will not work as the threads in the "hole" are metric. Any adapter needs to be metric by metric and same size by same size as well as same pitch by same pitch then. Have you spent any time figuring out what the size and thread pitch is? Or don't you know how to approach that issue?

Mike

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post #43 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Ken Bergen View Post
Maybe just my opinion but brakes are to important to me to be Mickey Moused.

Either do it correctly or park it.

Absolutely. If your life is not worth the proper ( correct ) parts, what about the life of your passenger???

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post #44 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Since nobody could locate the original insert thingie, I simply had Royal Brass make me a new stainless upper line - and had a chance to talk a bit more about how the brake world works, and why it was so difficult to locate a part. The tech said that the insert (he called it a "pill") design is perfectly safe when sealed up, and the lines seem well made - but that these shops tend to operate in different ecosystems (RB is a Parker shop) and many of the fundamental parts simply don't interoperate, and these companies make so many thousands of fittings and parts that it's very hard to be familiar with more than one catalog.

It's interesting to compare the two lines - the RB one almost looks brutalist in comparison, but reassuringly overbuilt.

Anyway, I finally have decent brake feel. Still a teeny bit spongy compared to a modern bike but a huge improvement. I might rebuild the MC just to be sure of the final part in the chain (calipers have been rebuilt) and hit it with an air-powered vacuum bleeder at Moto Guild just to go "all the way" but bike is safe to ride again.

And yes, if I do the linked front/rear lines I'm just going to PM Lopeha :

Quote:
Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
Any adapter needs to be metric by metric and same size by same size as well as same pitch by same pitch then. Have you spent any time figuring out what the size and thread pitch is? Or don't you know how to approach that issue?
For posterity - everything is m10x1 in the brake lines on these bikes, so make sure that whatever you end up putting on matches. 3/16ths will thread in - badly. Not worth the risk.
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post #45 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-28-2016, 07:24 PM
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Glad you got "there" !


"Pill" ? Never heard of it used that way but "OK"!


Quote:
Originally Posted by eskachig View Post
For posterity - everything is m10x1 in the brake lines on these bikes, so make sure that whatever you end up putting on matches. 3/16ths will thread in - badly. Not worth the risk.
I think you meant 3/8-24.


3/16" is the tube size measured SAE, it's same as 4.5mm in metric terms.


M10-1 is a metric thread for most tube nuts that will use either size steel line as they are the same.


3/8-24 is the thread on most SAE tube nuts for that size .... but there are larger threaded nuts in both metric and SAE that will also use 3/16" or 4.5mm steel.

You are right ..... a 3/8-24 is close to a M10-1 but they are not the same and do not belong together.
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