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Do I have a dangerous clutch problem?

15K views 153 replies 17 participants last post by  crimsonwing 
#1 ·
Hey wingers, back again. So the past two days riding my wing have been pretty scary. I've been having a lot of trouble switching gears. the shifter seems to get really stuck. At first i thought i wasn't pulling the clutch in all the way, but after several attempts it seemed to be a major issue. in addition to that, it feels like the clutch lever has less resistance now. Today I was at a stop light, and the wing kept accelerating and trying to pull me along with her and then she stalled out. This happened twice. luckily I was on my way home and I made it safe. But I don't want to ride again until I know it is safe to do so. Does this sound dangerous to all of you? more importantly, what steps can I take to fix this? and thoughts on what it can be? hopefully some gurus can chime in. Thanks in advance!:laugh:
 
#4 ·
I think between Ken and Dennis you should have it handled. Is the fluid low? That can cause what you say. Problem is that is the symptom and not the root cause. You need to find where the fluid went. :)
During an emergency like that just hold both brakes. That should keep the bike in place until you can hit the stop switch with your thumb.
 
#6 ·
If the bushing looks oval it's on it's last legs and should be replaced.
If when you remove the lever to check the bushing the hole for the push rod goes all the way through it's shot and the source of the problem.
 
#10 ·
thanks dennis. I'm pretty sure this is the culprit. I'm still going to bleed it out in a few weeks or so, but i think this should be done first. Now before I order, Should I get any other small parts just in case? i've been doing a bit of reading and some people mention also replacing grommets and stuff in and around the MC, and a new pushrod mabybe? what are your thoughts?
 
#12 ·
it is difficult to tell the fluid levels because the level reader has become all brown and crusty over the decades. is there any way around this? But on the other hand I just inspected the bushing and without even taking it out I can see the pushrod poking out!! it went right through and is starting to damage the lever! hopefully the lever is still fine. in addition, the bushing has so much play, its warped and worn severely to the point where I can see the floor when im looking down at it, that cant be any good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:surprise:
 
#16 ·
So I called every last dealer around me and none of them had it. Before I placed my online order, I decided to call the repair shop I like to go to, and what do you know, that had it!!! and several too! Shame on you dealers!!! Anyhow, i'm that much closer to a successful repair. The sun is down now, so I continue in the morning.
 
#19 ·
I keep a couple bushings in my parts box.
If that rod is poked through, it was L-O--N---G---- overdue.


Also ..... about that crusty sight glass ..... there are replacements available with seal on Ebay in fluid resistant plastic like OEM or glass. Search Gold Wing Sight Glass.
 
#22 ·
not yet. im frustrated with the lever and bushing. I removed the lever and the push rod is stuck in the bushing. it poked all the way through and even made a big hole in my lever. all the pressure smashed the rod around the bushing and now its latched on. I spent the last 5 hours trying to get it out and I even started drilling into it and no luck. so now I need to cut it off and order a new pushrod from mother honda now.
And it's tomorrow.
The dealer never got back to me so I called and they had zero in stock.
I guess I bought their last one five or six years ago.:surprise:
all the dealers i called said its been years since they had any in stock, no surprise.

I keep a couple bushings in my parts box.
If that rod is poked through, it was L-O--N---G---- overdue.


Also ..... about that crusty sight glass ..... there are replacements available with seal on Ebay in fluid resistant plastic like OEM or glass. Search Gold Wing Sight Glass.
awesome, thanks! ill give this a look.
 
#27 ·
UPDATE: I decided to keep drilling since I figured i had nothing to loose if I damaged the rod r anyway since I will be replacing it. After a few more attempts, it finally came loose!! The pushrod was only slightly nicked by the drill thankfully,but there was still major damage from the worn bushing usage. I installed the new bushing and took her out for a quick test ride and MY, OH MY!! The smoothest clutch performance I have EVER experienced in the past couple years riding her!!!!!! Im so happy!! now that being said, I only consider this a temporary fix. Im sure this will wear again soon from the damaged rod and lever. Im going to order a new pushrod and new bushing and possibly a new lever. Maybe I can JB weld the lever hole or something? well, anyhow this should last me just a couple weeks till the new parts come in. Thanks for the rod offer anyway Dennis. also, would I be able to start in gear if I have an 84? I thought that was an 85 and up thing?
 
#33 ·
if I do this, will I have to bleed the whole system and refill with fluid? i already plan on doing this but in a month or so. if I dont I can just take a peek today.


I definitely need a new rubber boot for that pushrod, its too worn. as for the lever ill see what I can find on ebay. are there still even new levers available?
 
#34 ·
New levers sold online no problem- ck ebay

Its fine to open the master cyl. cover and remove the rubber cover inside.
be careful of dripping brake fluid off the rubber onto plastic or painted surfaces!
The rubber should fit tightly and look in good condition, weak and sagged are signs of ancient fluid, new rubber covers are avail ~7 dollars.
The brake fluid should be clearish-yellow. Grey is absorbed-moisture laden = extreme age

Really old bad fluid can eat away at the metal internals of slave cyl- (as demonstrated on my 86 Shadow),
thats why I am asking you to look inside first.
It will tell you if buying replacement parts are a better plan than rebuilding yours, or buy some used and throw rebuild kits on them.

Before there were sight glasses, you had to remove the cap to ck fluid level.
You dont introduce air in the system by removing the cap and rubber moisture cover, go take a peek! its free~
 
#35 ·
so I tried to take a peek but one of the two screws on the master cylinder cover are so worn that I can even unscrew it. I think my only way out is to drill a hole into it and use and easy out. I tried wiping off some of the crust from the level viewer to see if there was any fluid in there, and from what i see it looks full, but im not sure if it is just the tinted color of the level viewer. On another note, the top of my engine has been covered in gunk for the past few weeks, it looks like oil has been leaking, right under the fuel filter. is this possibly oil? or is this leakage from the slave cylinder possibly?
 
#36 ·
You can get new master cyl. covers, with eagles on them, in Gold no less!

If the covers screws are stripped I think its safe to assume a few things about this bike:
It does not have fresh fluid in the master... and has not for a very long time.

Old fluid has likely eaten some important parts, probably rubber- and may have corroded some other internals

Not a 1200 owner here- you will have to look for oil exit points on your bike.
the 1500 has 2 drain tubes you empty at oil change, Gurus- 1200 similar tubes?
 
#37 ·
hey everyone, my new lever, bushing, pushrod and rubber boot(#11 on parts fiche) finally came in. two questions. how do i install the new rubber boot? and on my old pushrod, there seems to be an o-ring of some sort in the middle, but the new one doesn't have it. do i need one?
 
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