1200 running like crap - Page 5 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #41 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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ok, went out to my garage a few minutes ago, and using a flash light, i located the Tw sensor. it IS plugged in with the correct color coded harness plug. im wondering if i could slide a thin walled deep socket on a swivel adaptor in between the carb intake boots will i be able to get to it to turn it out to replace it. does this sound possible?

stuart.
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post #42 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 08:28 AM
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check out the PM i just sent,without doing the correct test at the connector at the forks you are gonna create a huge problem trying to replace the TW sensor,getting it out not impossible,getting it back in will give ya the problem

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post #43 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 02:55 PM
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the trouble lights (1&2) u are referring to, relate to trouble with the camshaft sensors, trouble lights (2and 3) are the TW sensor codes

Bellboy40 earlier posted how to check the TW sensor,when i had trouble with same i tested it same way,but also tested it running by checking the voltage with engine cold (approx 2.5vdc on wires and .5 vdc) engine hot

problems with the TW sensor makes motor run RICH, problem with GR/GW sensor will shut down engine
Hey neoracer, I believe you have it reversed . The lights 1&2 are for the TW sensor and 2&3 are for the GR sensor. Take another look at the chart for the lights that you posted.

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post #44 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 03:02 PM
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Stuart, why don't you want to do the tests to see what is wrong instead of just going to pull the sensor? It may not be your trouble. In fact, it is more likely to be a wiring issue than the sensor but until you make some tests we won't know for sure. It will be much easier to get in there to make tests from the connector than trying to get the sensor out and replace it.

Larry

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post #45 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-12-2017, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Larry, your not gonna believe this, but i don't know how to use a volt meter nor know how to perform the tests even though the book shows it. i hate electrical work, i suck at it. i would have to have someone help me with it. the bike has spent the last 2 months with an electrical technician, and after him doing tests on the sensor and wiring the bike back to the way its supposed to be, this is what he told me was wrong with it. he said "the computer is throwing out trouble codes for the Tw sensor. it should be replaced, otherwise your gonna have a lot of problems starting it up when the motor is cold". and this is exactly whats happening. im gonna try to get my friend over here to give me a hand with the test procedures for the Tw sensor.

once the bike warms up to normal operating temperature, it runs perfectly. i also checked the trouble codes against what it shows in the electrical service manual and the guy is correct. only other problem im having is my "fuel system" light is lit on my dash. one thing at a time. first the Tw sensor, then deal with the "fuel system" light.

stuart.
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post #46 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 02:46 PM
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If it was me, I would get someone to help me with the electrical testing then. It is going to be a real job to remove and replace that TW sensor. The service manual says you have to remove the throttle body/air chamber assembly to get to it. That is going to be involved.

Larry

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post #47 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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went to my local bike salvage yard today and found an 85 LTD with the Tw sensor still on it. it was a nightmare to get to it because the bike was broadsided and the entire right side of the motor was pushed into the center. i had to use a prybar to bend the engine case guard outward to unbolt it, then unbolt and pry up the right 2 injector boots to get them off, then pry up the rubber hoses attached to them, and after finally getting them out of the way i was able to get an 18 mm socket on a long extention to get the Tw sensor out of the thermostat tube housing.

while i was at it, i also removed the entire pulse generator from the right side of the engine head. so now, i have the Tw sensor WITH the entire wire harness along with the pulse generator with the entire wire harness and a few 8 mm chrome bolts to replace a few that are missing from my chrome parts.

all these parts cost a whopping $15.00 plus tax. now for the fun part, removing and installing these 2 parts on MY motor. next month im going back for the electric fuel pump thats still on the bike and is in good shape.

stuart.
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post #48 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:40 PM
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next month im going back for the electric fuel pump thats still on the bike and is in good shape.

stuart.

I wouldn't wait. You may never see another.

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post #49 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:47 PM
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You might get the fuel filter too,they are NLA also.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

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post #50 of 85 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 08:53 PM
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Just put a chain on it and drag the whole thing home.

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

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