GL1000 split timing - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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GL1000 split timing

I've been struggling with this split timing thing. I've used a static timing once, and that was on a CB750 when I put Dyna ignition.(I use dynamic more often )
This is a 1977 GL1000 with points.
So, following the manual. Get F-1 to align with the case, and the light comes on when hooked on parallel for (Cyl 1 and 2). Timing is correct.
Same with Cyl 3 and 4 with F-2 aligns with the case.
And yes, the points gap is adjusted.

Now with Randakk's method of split timing. This I guess is all confusing with all the degrees that involved.

Could someone walk me through the steps?

Thank you
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocks View Post
I've been struggling with this split timing thing. I've used a static timing once, and that was on a CB750 when I put Dyna ignition.(I use dynamic more often )
This is a 1977 GL1000 with points.
So, following the manual. Get F-1 to align with the case, and the light comes on when hooked on parallel for (Cyl 1 and 2). Timing is correct.
Same with Cyl 3 and 4 with F-2 aligns with the case.
And yes, the points gap is adjusted.

Now with Randakk's method of split timing. This I guess is all confusing with all the degrees that involved.

Could someone walk me through the steps?

Thank you
It's only needed if your light is coming on at a different point the next time the fly wheel comes back around then you "split the difference." Sounds like you're good to go.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-25-2017, 09:39 PM
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Mine both time without going through the exercise just like yours. So just time it & ignore the far out stuff.

Terry

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 06:31 AM
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To clarify, pull the plugs to make it easier and give you more control, set it right on at F1, carefully make one revolution to F1 again. As you're coming up to F1 slow down and watch if the light comes on right at F1 on that second revolution. I have never had one that did. If it doesn't match, you " split the difference " one revolution a little early, the next revolution a little late.

Before doing this mine would sound like a bad rod when taking off from a stop and clatter at idle pretty good. Kind of a nuisance but worth the improvement.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-26-2017, 10:16 AM
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The bike will run without doing the split timing, but as mentioned, it will run MUCH better if you do it. Check it on F1 and F2, plugs out, 'static' method. Take your time, its well worth it!!

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 05:40 AM
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what is being compensated for? timing will be same every rotation unless there is wear or poor quality control. sounds like something needs fixed rather than "put it there, it'll do."
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by claydbal View Post
what is being compensated for? timing will be same every rotation unless there is wear or poor quality control. sounds like something needs fixed rather than "put it there, it'll do."
Read this for explanation. Applies to gl1000 still running points only. http://www.randakksblog.com/ignition...ing-technique/
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 10:16 AM
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Applies to Dyna as well as points. Theory is the cam is flexing. Don't know. Do know that split timing when you have this issue helps low rpm performance.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2017, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Ekvh1 View Post
To clarify, pull the plugs to make it easier and give you more control, set it right on at F1, carefully make one revolution to F1 again. As you're coming up to F1 slow down and watch if the light comes on right at F1 on that second revolution. I have never had one that did. If it doesn't match, you " split the difference " one revolution a little early, the next revolution a little late.

Before doing this mine would sound like a bad rod when taking off from a stop and clatter at idle pretty good. Kind of a nuisance but worth the improvement.
Put the light next to the timing port. It makes it a lot easier to she the timing mark alignment when the light comes on.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-29-2017, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
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Maybe I am just overthinking all of this. Like I said, I always used dynamic testing on my bikes.
So, are these the steps Randakk is talking about?
http://www.randakksblog.com/ignition...ing-technique/


(From older post here)
1. Set the .4mm gap for the left and right points at the high point of the shaft
2. Adjust the main base plate static timing such that the #1 cylinder fires a little before the F1 mark.
3. Check the left point gap on either high point of the shaft and adjust the left point as necessary to get a .4mm gap.
4. Rotate the crank 360 degrees until the F1 mark appears again and adjust the main base plate such that the #2 cylinder fires a little after the F1 mark.
5. Check the left point gap on either high point of the shaft and adjust the left point as necessary to get a .4mm gap.
6. Rotate the crank 180 degrees until the F2 mark aligns with the case marks and adjust the sub plate such that the #3 cylinder fires.
7. Check the left and right point gaps on either high point of the shaft and adjust them as necessary to get a .4mm gap.
8. Rotate the crank 360 degrees until the F2 mark aligns with the case marks and adjust the sub plate such that the #4 cylinder fires.
9. Check the left and right point gaps on either high point of the shaft and adjust them as necessary to get a .4mm gap.


When I try to get one cylinder fires before F-1, and the second after F2 the base plate for 1-2 angled too much. Like about 40 degrees from the mark on points cover Honda used.

Last edited by rocks; 04-29-2017 at 08:48 AM.
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