Poor Boy Conversion still available? - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 06:59 PM
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I would take the battery down and have it checked ,FIRST,it could be weak,seen them new and weak.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

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post #32 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 03:19 PM
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Hi Guys, Thanks for weighing in. So true regarding new parts not necessarily meaning good parts.

I'll be getting the bike out of storage hopefully this weekend actually. I'll start troubleshooting by first having the battery checked (any tips on where to do this?
Battery mart? AutoZone? Located in Wausau). Then if needed, I'll start troubleshooting the electrical system per the manual: stator performance, coil resistance, leakdown test, regulator/rectifier test. Is there anything else? Is there a recommended order of things to check?

I have to do something, the bike barely turns over and starts sometimes. I've held my breath a couple times when I was far from home.

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post #33 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 03:49 PM
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You've listed so many things to do that I'm confused. Are you raising the Titanic?

Really, all you need to do is test the battery under load. Most places that sell batteries can do that for you.

Then put a volt meter to the battery terminals and check the voltage with the motor at idle and running around 3K RPM.
An OEM regulator should give you around 15V @ idle and 13V @ 3K.

If the battery passes the load test you will have to pull the starter and do some maintenance on it.

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post #34 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 04:01 PM
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Ummm, Dennis, you got a typo


OEM regulator should give you around 15V @ idle


not going to be near that high, more like 12V



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post #35 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 04:24 PM
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Ummm, Dennis, you got a typo


OEM regulator should give you around 15V @ idle


not going to be near that high, more like 12V
That is not a typo. the 1200 will charge between 14 and 15V at idle. Once the cooling fan comes on and with the brake lights on it will drop to about 13V.
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post #36 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 04:31 PM
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I checked the Haynes manual for the GL1200 and found the following values:

@ 950 RPM: Minus 1 to zero amps, above 12 volts
@3000 RPM: Zero to 3 amps, 14V - 15V
@5000 RPM: Zero to 8 amps, 14V - 15V

How do those look?

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post #37 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 05:44 PM
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The Haynes manual is okay for starting fires and such. Nothing more.
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post #38 of 42 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 05:57 PM
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The Haynes manual is okay for starting fires and such. Nothing more.
Ever since Sears went out of catalog business I have one in the out house.
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post #39 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 03:57 PM
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Well I pulled her out of storage yesterday. I actually tried a few days before that but it only sluggishly turned over 6 or 7 times before it was completely out of juice. I put a battery charger on it set at 2 amps for two days. And it still only had a few cranks before she was out of juice. So I replaced the battery with a Duralast Gold ETX18L. It fired up brilliantly and immediately. In fact, I've never heard the starter turn that fast before. I think I had a bum battery the entire time I've owned the thing (only since June of last year).

In addition, the battery that I took out was a Walmart brand (Yuasa) and only boasted 230 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA). The new battery I installed puts out 330 CCA.

So for now, as long as my battery stays happy and healthy, I think my issue is resolved... Bad Battery.

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post #40 of 42 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 06:56 PM
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Yuasa is not a Wal-Mart brand. It is probably the best battery line on the planet and what Honda puts in all their bikes at the factory.

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