1500 fork seals - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Erdeniz Umman View Post
Before replacing any fork seals, I would try cleaning it using a tool called Sealmate.
https://youtu.be/nEzjdFQp6IM
That's interesting but they are apart now,and ready to assemble.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Erdeniz Umman View Post
Before replacing any fork seals, I would try cleaning it using a tool called Sealmate.
Very interesting. Will have to make a mental note for when this happens to me in the future.
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post #13 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 11:06 AM
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Very interesting. Will have to make a mental note for when this happens to me in the future.
It definitely worked for me. I had a leak and after cleaning the seals I have completed 10000km (6000mil) and no leaks so far.
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post #14 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 02:52 PM
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It definitely worked for me. I had a leak and after cleaning the seals I have completed 10000km (6000mil) and no leaks so far.
Same here, I had 1 start to leak 2 years ago and made a tool from a plastic bottle and it's still dry, probably 20 to 25,000 miles. The seal wasn't very old at the time so I though I would give it a try.
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post #15 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Well got the one apart,the seal was in upside down,😝,putting it back together but it looks like I need to replaced the bushings that I didn't order so i am leaving the other one on right now until I get the bushings and then do both them then.Most likely the other one is in right cause it's fine now .
Curious as to why mine don't have the air fitting in the top,I think it has had the springs replaced along with updated rear,seem I read in the po notes that it had Progressive springs put in it,it is SE model and was suppose to have the valve,I think?

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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post #16 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pure Texas View Post
Well got the one apart,the seal was in upside down,😝,putting it back together but it looks like I need to replaced the bushings that I didn't order so i am leaving the other one on right now until I get the bushings and then do both them then.Most likely the other one is in right cause it's fine now .
Curious as to why mine don't have the air fitting in the top,I think it has had the springs replaced along with updated rear,seem I read in the po notes that it had Progressive springs put in it,it is SE model and was suppose to have the valve,I think?
If you check the following link, it is given as optional for your bike.
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...T+I/parts.html
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post #17 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting,from what I read the SE was the only model that had them?
I don't care for them,I only ride single so no need for more pressure on the seal,that is if it does put pressure,my 85LTD had them but I always rode double.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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post #18 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 08:28 PM
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Interesting,from what I read the SE was the only model that had them?
I don't care for them,I only ride single so no need for more pressure on the seal,that is if it does put pressure,my 85LTD had them but I always rode double.
While you have them apart, you might want to tap out the top bolt and install a bolt in the center. It makes changing the oil in the forks a whole lot easier via the "dipstick" measurement method. My SE has the Schrader valves, and changing the oil just involves removing that valve and draining the oil, then refilling with a copper tube as a dipstick to measure the depth inside the fork. There's a how to somewhere on this site that tells the correct heights for various models and spring configurations.
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post #19 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-28-2017, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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I did see that article,but I didn't take the top out.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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post #20 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-29-2017, 10:52 AM
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Having the schrader valves makes assembly a breeze, especially if you really have Progressives springs in front.
That allows you to hold the cap in a vise, invert the fork -without oil- and pull it down onto the cap,. while helper starts the threads
Compare to pushing down on a socket and ratchet with your chest AND hope you dont strip the threads.
Once all assembled and tightened, a squeeze plastic bottle with pointed tip fits into the open hole- add FORK OIL, install valve and enjoy

Fork Oil should be changed every 8000 miles/2 years according to Honda

NOTE IF Prog brand springs you reduce the amount of oil by 2 ounces, due to increased fluid displacement by larger spring coil wire- thats per Progressive tech help and install directions
For the average 1500 thats a tick under 11 ounces of 10 or 15 weight fork oil. Prog suggest 15w which is a bit stiff for some solo riders.

Note- do a clean and lube service to the TRAC anti-dive system built in the forks, that button the brake caliper assembly activates under hard braking
It changes the flow of oil thru the forks, increasing resistance to dive under weight transfer
At least operate the button several times, if you dont go inside.... which will tear the gasket and require another weeks wait,,yeah just push the bottom several times to be sure its free
With new fork oil the TRAC and overall fork operation is going to work a lot better.
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