Crankshaft/ timing belt gears - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 05:34 AM
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If the key is still tight in the cam all you need is a new gear wheel & maybe a new key, or it may be only the key worn.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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The shaft I am having troubles with is the center shaft. Where the 2 belt gears are located. The rear one is where I have 1/8 inch slop. This is causing the motor to have a knock when running. I believe because the belt is 1/2 tooth off due to the slop.


These are not aluminum as a magnet does attach to the center gears.




So is spot welding feasible?
Is there a key for these two belt gears?
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 11:29 AM
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You HAVE to determine whether the wear is in the pulley or the shaft. No one can give any useful advice without knowing what is worn.

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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilcoy02 View Post
The shaft I am having troubles with is the center shaft. Where the 2 belt gears are located. The rear one is where I have 1/8 inch slop. This is causing the motor to have a knock when running. I believe because the belt is 1/2 tooth off due to the slop.


These are not aluminum as a magnet does attach to the center gears.




So is spot welding feasible?
Is there a key for these two belt gears?
The Huntington Beach website does not show keys but the drawing for the crankshaft shows a key slot.

I would assume they have keys since 1200 does.

From the 1200 service manual "If the bolt is properly torqued and one or both of the pulleys is loose, disassemble and inspect the pulley keyways for wear."
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilcoy02 View Post
The shaft I am having troubles with is the center shaft. Where the 2 belt gears are located. The rear one is where I have 1/8 inch slop. This is causing the motor to have a knock when running. I believe because the belt is 1/2 tooth off due to the slop.

These are not aluminum as a magnet does attach to the center gears.

So is spot welding feasible?
Is there a key for these two belt gears?
Have you synchronized the carburettors?
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-13-2017, 04:49 PM
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I would try many options before welding the crankshaft. Pull the belts, radiator and crank pulleys to see what's wearing. Perhaps you should re-title this with crankshaft pulleys rather than camshaft pulleys to not mislead potential advice. My guess is that the pulley has worn its slot some. Replacements are cheap and plentiful. A good mechanic/ machinist could take risks make a wider key and pare it down with a file to fit both snugly.

Welding it could be the last straw.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-19-2017, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Scott View Post
With the slop you have described you should be able to slide the gear off without any problems after the bolt is removed.

To remove the key from the shaft, a small hammer and a punch should let you GENTLY tap it out of the groove. The moon shaped key should start coming out if you tap staight back on it. I prefer trying to tap at an angle to pop the front edge upward. Also sometimes helpful is to use a small screwdriver once the key starts lifting to get between the key and the shaft.

Be careful not to drive anything too hard and damage the seals around the shaft.

Diagonal cutter pliers are good tools for removing those keys , - just grab it in the end and lift the plier as a pry bar .
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