GL1200 front left brake (hand lever) hardly stops - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 12:29 AM
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Gurus...could this be a case of return line in master cyl needing cleaning?
If so:
There is a small plate at bottom of master, remove fluid, remove 2 screws and poke hole with single wire from a wire brush, the end of a guitar string etc, tiny thin wire

All the bleeding from the bottom wont matter if an air bubble is trapped at the banjo bolt
Have to pump lever halfway a few times, then burp the banjo with it as high point- as noted in above post

DO cover banjo and surrounds with rags, or say goodbye to some paint!
Apply a small amount of bearing grease or brake caliper grease to the threads of bleeder nipple, seals out any possible air suck-back

Sometimes its the simple things. You verified free motion of calipers and pads?
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post #12 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aloha Tom View Post
Gurus...could this be a case of return line in master cyl needing cleaning?
If so:
There is a small plate at bottom of master, remove fluid, remove 2 screws and poke hole with single wire from a wire brush, the end of a guitar string etc, tiny thin wire

All the bleeding from the bottom wont matter if an air bubble is trapped at the banjo bolt
Have to pump lever halfway a few times, then burp the banjo with it as high point- as noted in above post

DO cover banjo and surrounds with rags, or say goodbye to some paint!
Apply a small amount of bearing grease or brake caliper grease to the threads of bleeder nipple, seals out any possible air suck-back

Sometimes its the simple things. You verified free motion of calipers and pads?
that's a good maintenance item.

Except when the return hole is plugged it applies the brakes and they dragged all the time.






While you have the calipers off go ahead and push the Pistons out and clean all of that up. Remove the dust seal and oil seal and clean behind them and carefully replace them. When you're done you should be able to easily Slide the Pistons in by hand. As well as getting the slides loosened up so that they actually move.

If you happen to find pitting in the slide sleeve you'll want to replace it at some point.

Dennis is right the lever should not touch the grip. That would indicate air in the system.

The LORD is my light and my salvation--so why should I be afraid? The LORD is my fortress, protecting me from danger, so why should I tremble?

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post #13 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys.

Dennis and Jeff, I tried the banjo bleeding. Still the lever gets to the grip easily with no difference. I'll examine the caliper, install new pads, will do bleedibg on main stand & side stand and the banjo bleedibg. I'll let you all know.

Again, thank you very much for your time and effort.

Ron

Last edited by Ronlaufer; 07-15-2017 at 09:52 AM.
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post #14 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 09:35 PM
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I'm thinking that the rubber in your master cylinder has deteriorated to the point that brake fluid is bypassing the normal route.



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The LORD is my light and my salvation--so why should I be afraid? The LORD is my fortress, protecting me from danger, so why should I tremble?

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post #15 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-15-2017, 10:55 PM
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You could be right Jeff. I overlooked that so a good catch. Usually that happens a little at a time and using the lever quickly will make for one good stop each time. The seal usually gets hard and loose there resilience. It takes a quick shot to make the lip of the seal jump out. If you take the cover off and squeeze the lever you should see the fluid spray back in to the reservoir. Protect the area so you don't accidently s[ay brake fluid on the paint. A little spurt is normal. Not a constant "stream" over the length of the stroke.

Mike

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post #16 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
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I took the cover off and squeezed the lever. No spray nor bubbles at all.

Could the problem be the line?

Ron
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post #17 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 07:42 AM
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I would take that master cylinder off and put a rebuild kit in it. It sounds very much to me like it is not pushing fluid out to the caliper.

Larry

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post #18 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 11:47 AM
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I really doubt the lines are the problem unless there's fluid leaking out.

The LORD is my light and my salvation--so why should I be afraid? The LORD is my fortress, protecting me from danger, so why should I tremble?

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post #19 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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OK. After all of your answer I started to check. I disconnected the line from the master cylinder. Pressed very hard the output hole. A tiny press on the lever created a pressure, my finger could not hold it and the fluid sprayed.

So I guess the master cylinder is fine.

Is it possible that air is entering the system after the bleeding while no fluid is going out?

What do you advise me to check next?

Last edited by Ronlaufer; 07-16-2017 at 01:47 PM.
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post #20 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-16-2017, 03:14 PM
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If you put the bike on the center stand and get the front wheel off the ground and spin the wheel and apply the brake,does it stop the wheel and if it does can you still turn the front wheel while holding the brake lever down,might just be pads bad

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

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