Won't start after working on carbs - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-09-2017, 04:25 PM
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Not being a smart ass here but virtually every time you have a running machine that fails after the repair, it has something to do with the repair. Recheck what you did for something that was overlooked. Easily done


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post #12 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-09-2017, 06:32 PM
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The carb rack has to be held almost vertical so the float just barely rests on the needle without compressing the spring.
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File Type: jpg 1200 float level.jpg (49.4 KB, 22 views)

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post #13 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-09-2017, 07:53 PM
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What I do is clamp the carb in a vice just tight enough to secure it and not damage it of course.Then I put a piece of hose on the inlet. I blow through the hose and slowly rotate the carb until you just can't blow air through the hose. Carefully measure the float height and adjust. Repeat as necessary until it is just right. Make sure the springs in the needle are springy.

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post #14 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-09-2017, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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No new fuel lines 'not bent'

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post #15 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-09-2017, 11:41 PM
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No new fuel lines 'not bent'
How did you manage that?

And there's no need to yell.

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post #16 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-09-2017, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
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What I do is clamp the carb in a vice just tight enough to secure it and not damage it of course.Then I put a piece of hose on the inlet. I blow through the hose and slowly rotate the carb until you just can't blow air through the hose. Carefully measure the float height and adjust. Repeat as necessary until it is just right. Make sure the springs in the needle are springy.
RedWing ... I will try what you suggest tomorrow Thanks --- fingers crossed

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post #17 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-09-2017, 11:51 PM
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+1 on what Dennis said. Check for fuel in the float bowls. Unscrew the bowl drains and see what comes out. How is the filter? Check the fuel delivery first. The fuel level in the float bowl needs to cover the jets. They are circled in the picture. When you set the float level, set the carb body on it's side so the weight of the float does not press on the valve spring. Bend the tab to set the level with the tab just touching the spring loaded pin. The float level is not that critical to make it run. It is critical to make it run correctly.
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post #18 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-10-2017, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
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How did you manage that?
And there's no need to yell.
Very carefully. And not meaning to yell..
Senior brain moment...

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post #19 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-10-2017, 01:19 AM
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Very carefully. And not meaning to yell..
Senior brain moment...
Can you enlighten us? If you have a technique that works there are plenty here who can benefit.

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post #20 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-10-2017, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Wandering New Trails View Post
Very carefully. And not meaning to yell..
Senior brain moment...
I think Dennis has a very valid point. If you replaced the gas line on the carburetors what did you do about the 90-degree binds that were in the originals.
If you use straight fuel line it tends to crimp once the bike heats up or before stopping the gas.

Perhaps if you could post some pictures of your carburetors that would be helpful and clarify a few things so we can better help you.

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