Won't start after working on carbs - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-11-2017, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Year: 1984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffMayfield View Post
If you use straight fuel line it tends to crimp once the bike heats up or before stopping the gas. Perhaps if you could post some pictures of your carburetors that would be helpful and clarify a few things so we can better help you.
Ok, see photos
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post #22 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Well guys, After wife told me get to fix'n those carb's if I every expected
'Yum, yum. So re-read fixing help from ya guy's... And now think,{hope} I
have issues corrected. here's what I did;

Pulled each float bowl - removed each float and needle
then took each tab and bent them inline with float housing. After that re-installed needle in seat with float attached one at a time with the Carburetor rack/set tilted vertical, I blow air through fuel line [one at a time until I could hear [after SLOWLY] setting the tabs.. Once that was done, I turned the Carburetor rack/set horizontal and blow water through the fuel lines - to verify that if water would act as it was filling bowl --- then so would the gasoline. Everything good so far! Re-installed float bowls for final test... With all parts installed I then blow water into fuel lines so as to fill the carb. bowls each. Next the test to see if I REALLY did/would have liquid flowing through the float needle valves. Un-screwed each drain and liquid ran out off each bowl...

Tomorrow church I plan to mount Carburetor rack/set.. I'll let you know what happens, [will it or will it not start and run?.....

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post #23 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-12-2017, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wandering New Trails View Post
Well guys, After wife told me get to fix'n those carb's if I every expected
'Yum, yum. So re-read fixing help from ya guy's... And now think,{hope} I
have issues corrected. here's what I did;

Pulled each float bowl - removed each float and needle
then took each tab and bent them inline with float housing. After that re-installed needle in seat with float attached one at a time with the Carburetor rack/set tilted vertical, I blow air through fuel line [one at a time until I could hear [after SLOWLY] setting the tabs.. Once that was done, I turned the Carburetor rack/set horizontal and blow water through the fuel lines - to verify that if water would act as it was filling bowl --- then so would the gasoline. Everything good so far! Re-installed float bowls for final test... With all parts installed I then blow water into fuel lines so as to fill the carb. bowls each. Next the test to see if I REALLY did/would have liquid flowing through the float needle valves. Un-screwed each drain and liquid ran out off each bowl...

Tomorrow church I plan to mount Carburetor rack/set.. I'll let you know what happens, [will it or will it not start and run?.....
When you say vertical do you mean vertical enough for the needle to touch the seat or just plain vertical. If it is just vertical it might not be right. the float height is fussy. It has to be right or it will be wrong. It is important that the needle has just (just) (JUST) closed when you check float height.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #24 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-13-2017, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Wandering New Trails View Post
Un-screwed each drain and liquid ran out off each bowl...[/B][/COLOR]
.
How much liquid is critical. I don't know on 1200s but 1100s when set correctly will have 1.5 oz (42cc) in each bowl.
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post #25 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-13-2017, 09:56 AM
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Sorry, I still question the hoses. More now since I've seen the picture.

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post #26 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-13-2017, 05:51 PM
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How much liquid is critical. I don't know on 1200s but 1100s when set correctly will have 1.5 oz (42cc) in each bowl.
I have done a couple of 1200's and they too are fussy. Never did an 1100.

Mike

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post #27 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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[Quote]When you say vertical do you mean vertical enough for the needle to touch the seat or just plain vertical. If it is just vertical it might not be right. the float height is fussy. It has to be right or it will be wrong. It is important that the needle has just (just) (JUST) closed when you check float height.[Quote]

Ever since my last surgery I seem to have issues working on 'wing'.... All I see is where I had NO liquid going past needle valves; I do now have liquid that will flow out of the carbs when I open carb. drain screws..
Wife is having carpets cleaned today. So will take a few photos of how I set carb. floats. Yes, I did what I thought you meant by [just] vertical...

I went to see a person that works on GoldWings to see what he would charge to set the carb floats ---- COST= $400.00

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post #28 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 10:46 AM
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Did that $400 include removing/replacing the carbs? If so, that's actually a decent price. Who quoted it?

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post #29 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 11:36 AM
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[quote=Wandering New Trails;5292641][Quote]When you say vertical do you mean vertical enough for the needle to touch the seat or just plain vertical. If it is just vertical it might not be right. the float height is fussy. It has to be right or it will be wrong. It is important that the needle has just (just) (JUST) closed when you check float height.
Quote:

Ever since my last surgery I seem to have issues working on 'wing'.... All I see is where I had NO liquid going past needle valves; I do now have liquid that will flow out of the carbs when I open carb. drain screws..
Wife is having carpets cleaned today. So will take a few photos of how I set carb. floats. Yes, I did what I thought you meant by [just] vertical...

I went to see a person that works on GoldWings to see what he would charge to set the carb floats ---- COST= $400.00
Imagine that you have the carb in the normal position as if it were on the bike. The fuel bowls are empty so the needle and seat are open of course. Imagine a hose connected to the inlet. You could blow through it easily. So keep blowing as you rotate the carb slowly upside down. At some point the float will drop on the seat and JUST stop you from blowing. That is the exact point at which you need to set float height.
If your float level is not correct but you have fuel in the bowls you will proably get the bike running. If the float level is not correct it will not run right though.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #30 of 52 (permalink) Old 08-14-2017, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
Did that $400 include removing/replacing the carbs? If so, that's actually a decent price. Who quoted it?
No..... Only take bowls off re-set floats! $100 each.
At that price he needs to take me to dinner... BEFORE he s**# me...

C&R Motor in Tucson,Az

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