Was helping a friend of mine troubleshoot why, all of a sudden, his GL1500 wouldn't start. Got some great feedback on what to look at and we proceeded to replace the fuel filter first, still wouldn't start, and went on to rebuilding the petcock auto valve, but it still wouldn't start.
The next day we bypassed the petcock and it started! Let it warm up for about 10 minutes, then reconnected the petcock and it continued to run!
He had been having a problem with his choke lever not fully engaging when he started it so we adjusted the the free play in the cable so it worked through the whole travel of the lever.
After I had gone home the friend decided he was going to take it for a ride and when he revved the engine (still in his driveway) it stalled. He restarted it and the same thing happened again. When he tried to start it again, it would not start.
I know a number of people over the years have mentioned bypassing the petcock and leaving it that way, but does this sound like the route we should go next, or could have adjusting the choke cable travel as far as we did have caused the issue?
After rebuilding the petcock, it is a good idea to test it as you would a suspected bad unit. Incorrect assembly can render it unusable and testing can confirm its serviceability.
Now that I think of it, we did retest the petcock after we rebuilt it. Had to reassemble it twice because the first time we had the vent in the wrong location. It held and did not drop at all!
After we got it running the first time, with the petcock hooked up, the owner went to take it for a ride and it died. Restarted and died again. I went back to his place and bypassed the petcock again, started it and let it run for 15 minutes. I took it for a short ride and cranked to 3000 rpm in 3 gears....no problem. Going to reinstall the petcock again (that I took apart and looked again to make sure it was assembled correctly) then pull a vacuum with the vac tool to make sure it works to make sure it runs correctly with the correct vacuum, and then to reconnect the vacuum side to the engine and see how it goes. My guess is that we are not getting the proper vacuum out of the hose and will need to start digging on the left side to find the leakage.
If the motor ran like it supposed to,with no hesitation then it most likely does have proper vacuum,the big line under the carbs detorate and cause Ill running,
We did more testing today and the auto shut-off valve does not work via vacuum off the engine, but does work when we pulled vacuum with a vac tool. We will order a new vacuum hose and find the leak once it arrives.
If there is a bad vacuum issue the motor won’t run smooth,pop back through the exhaust and idle erratic,just won’t run 6 cylinder smooth,what is the idle rpm.
It s on the intake runner on the left,there 3 but one is larger,the large one was cracked,I ct off the end past the split.
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
2.5M posts
73.7K members
Since 2004
A forum community dedicated to Honda Gold Wing owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about reviews, performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!