Rear-end rattle at slow speed #2 - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by RambozoClown View Post
Drive splines.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...ml#post1542319

While you're in there, do both ends of the driveshaft, too.
Definitely! I'm not sure the front of the shaft is all that important because it's static lengthwise. But I was stranded in the middle of nowhere 2 years ago when the rear splines were almost totally gone. I had no idea this was a wear point. But the shaft moves ever so slightly horizontally as the rear wheel moves vertically and this slight movement will eventually wear out the splines. Mine died at about 130,000 miles. So when the rear tire is replaced, do the drive and driveshaft splines with high moly grease.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 12:16 PM
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I've got a 2000se as well and at slow speed I hear a rattle similar to the noise Ive heard from bad fan bearings coming from somewhere under the passenger seat. I've not been able to find any common thing, it happens most in 2nd, with or with the clutch engaged, braking and not braking, but sometimes in 1st or third...

Might also be the Rubber Dampeners Blocks inside the rear wheel hub. These blocks connect the drive line to the rear wheel, and when they wear out they then get Smaller... which in-turn creates Slop in the drive line, which can create a knocking sound when it get's extreme.


Mine wore out at 100k miles; and were so loose that the aluminum spacers (1 inside each of 5 blocks) would simply fall out of the (normally tight) holes that they sat in.


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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-17-2018, 12:42 PM
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Should I go ahead and replace the Alternator when I replace those blocks ?
Not if it ain't broke IMHO.

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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-27-2018, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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So today I replaced the Hypoid Gear Lube in the rear end and pulled the wheel using the "lift the whole back end" method. Just put her up on the center stand, loosened up all the appropriate bolts and hoisted the tail up with a ratchet strap connected to the garage door tracks. The only real trick I figured out was to pull the saddlebags to make it easier to reinstall the bolts that hold the frame/rear crash bars.

Also, I found a mud flap sort of device which was only partially attached to the front of the rear fender. It was severely worn and may well have been the source of the noise. I removed it before reassembly and will update y'all on the outcome.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 01:34 AM
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I helped to do that once, with the saddle bags left on the bike.


that IMO, is a no no....
almost impossible to get your hands in behind the saddle bags to get the wiring harnesses back where they belong.



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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-28-2018, 03:09 AM
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Cool

I did the same job with shocks, brakes, lube all the splines, etc. Now that your third picture showed up, you've totally convinced me that it's way less hassle just to pull the saddlebags off and have plenty of room to work in.
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