GL1200 solenoid connections - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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That marine solenoid does have an "I" printed on it, which to my understanding is just used to send a full 12 volts to the coil during starter cranking. I do not want to connect a ground to that circuit. I've extensively googled that "I" terminal and have never read that it is connected to a safety ground. It is always identified as going to the ignition coil, and carrying a full 12v. Hence the "I" label. Maybe other solenoids have different connections, but then they must also be labeled different.

I do have in line spade fuses on both wires, red to ignition and red/white to regulator. The dogbone elimination, and spade fuse addition, referred to as "Tricky's mod", I done a long time ago.

The solenoid I have installed is grounded through the base, which I isolated and connected the safety ground wire to. No big deal to isolate. I'm not using the "I" terminal. No confusion.

Thanks for helping, but I think I need to be careful before I connect the wires incorrectly. And make darn sure too.

I have never been lost, but I will admit to being confused for several weeks. Daniel Boone
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jimh352 View Post
I have a Ford Napa STH404 starter solenoid to replace the cheap ones that keep causing me problems. My question is the connections.

You say the cheap ones that keep causing problems, yet it seems the NAPA product is giving you problems even plugging it in. How is that any different?

Why don't you buy the correct part and be done with this?
.

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Napa one is installed, no problem, just checking with everybody on the wiring. A little research revealed connections. The oem one http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/product298.html is $74. I hate to be taken advantage of. Evidently it wasn't very good or else it would have still been there. When I bought it, there was the cheap one already installed. Probably the original culprit was bad connections. Maybe the oem one is ok, I dunno. Anyway, it's done.
Thanks everybody

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jimh352 View Post
Napa one is installed, no problem, just checking with everybody on the wiring. A little research revealed connections. The oem one http://www.saber-cycle.com/store/product298.html is $74. I hate to be taken advantage of. Evidently it wasn't very good or else it would have still been there. When I bought it, there was the cheap one already installed. Probably the original culprit was bad connections. Maybe the oem one is ok, I dunno. Anyway, it's done.
Thanks everybody
Jim,
First of all NEVER buy from Sabre. She is a crook and lots of people here have had trouble including myself. If you look at the ad tied to the link, then read the reviews. That is not an OEM solenoid. The wires were reversed. Probably a $10 solenoid they sell for $74. It is not unusual for Sabre. BEWARE..or learn the hard way like me.

Mike

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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 01:32 PM
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 01:40 PM
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# 11. $63.87 + shipping, or you could go to your local dealer and order it.

http://shop.westernhonda.com/fiche_s...85&fveh=132502

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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveO430 View Post
The green/red is the same wire for both the clutch switch and the neutral switch, if not connected to one of the small terminals on the isolated base solenoid (or in the case of the ford solenoid if isolated) neither will work.
Thanks, just looked at schematic again. Attached picture.

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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimh352 View Post
That marine solenoid does have an "I" printed on it, which to my understanding is just used to send a full 12 volts to the coil during starter cranking. I do not want to connect a ground to that circuit. I've extensively googled that "I" terminal and have never read that it is connected to a safety ground. It is always identified as going to the ignition coil, and carrying a full 12v. Hence the "I" label. Maybe other solenoids have different connections, but then they must also be labeled different.
.
I did some research and found the marine relay has an isolated base, therefore uses both terminals in the starting circuit, that's why I suggested it. Outboards have a neutral safety and my assumption is it grounds the relay just like on motorcycles.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 05:53 PM
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I have had good luck with the Cole Hersee solenoids. Any of the tp five are the same except for the mount. They can handle 200 amps intermittent with 500 amp inrush. Plenty enough. They also have a 16 ohm coil so that is less than 1 amp on the switches which I like. Take notice if you buy a marine solenoid as some/most are rated at less than 100 amps.Below is a schematic that shows the insulated (isolated) base. I know the old Dodge, Plymouth and Chryslers used the insulated base. I think about 1960 or so should work.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 07:01 PM
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As Dave said there are marine starter relays with isolated mounts.
There are also lots of lawn and garden tractor starter relays with isolated mounts.

Why the Ford relay with grounded mount became the go to replacement is strange.

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

Ken.
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