GL1200 solenoid connections - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-18-2017, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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GL1200 solenoid connections

I have a Ford Napa STH404 starter solenoid to replace the cheap ones that keep causing me problems. My question is the connections. Please correct me if these are wrong:

Yellow/red wire to "S" terminal. (switch)
Green/red wire to solenoid base (ground)
Nothing on "I" terminal

Battery on bottom post
Starter on top post

Have directions, just not for green/red wire.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-18-2017, 10:03 PM
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Unless you isolate the solenoid from the frame the green/red wire is useless. You should have gotten the marine relay.

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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-20-2017, 12:31 AM
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If you bolt the relay to the frame somewhere you don't need the green/red wire, otherwise it goes to the relay base (like you said). Battery and starter on whichever of the two big posts most convenient. Doesn't matter. It's just a switch contact between the two.

In the native application the "I" terminal is a third contact in the main switch contacts between battery and starter. It is is intended to feed full battery voltage to the ignition coil while cranking, bypassing the ballast resistor when you energize the relay but isolating the coil back to the ballast resistor otherwise. You could connect an idiot light to that showing when the relay is energized....

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-20-2017, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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That's a good idea about usage of the "I" connection, that is if one were to worry about not hearing the starter staying engaged. It's not a very loud sound, so I will strongly consider that option.

On the solenoid, I did isolate the base, and attached the clutch diode wire (green/red - ground) to the base. I also cut off the two mounting wings to make installation easier. The instructions do indicate "M" and "B" connections (stater and battery), so I connected them accordingly.

Did have to drill out the holes on the ring terminals that went to the battery and the starter to make them a tad bigger to fit on the larger posts on the new solenoid. I changed the other ring terminals that go to my key switch and accessories to larger ones, (I have the dogbone eliminated). The starter button wire and the ground clutch diode wire I had to cut loose from the connector and add ring terminals, of course.

Waiting on my replacement starter. But I can tell the solenoid is different. It's instantaneous in it's action and release. I've read a lot of good stuff about this solenoid. And also about the marine one, but not as much. Cars and trucks are in use more than boats may be the reason. In either case, both are much better by far than the cheap a.. solenoid I had on there. Just a note, never buy a cheap solenoid. Too many amps going through there.

I have never been lost, but I will admit to being confused for several weeks. Daniel Boone
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-20-2017, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimh352 View Post
That's a good idea about usage of the "I" connection, that is if one were to worry about not hearing the starter staying engaged. It's not a very loud sound, so I will strongly consider that option.

On the solenoid, I did isolate the base, and attached the clutch diode wire (green/red - ground) to the base. I also cut off the two mounting wings to make installation easier. The instructions do indicate "M" and "B" connections (stater and battery), so I connected them accordingly.

Did have to drill out the holes on the ring terminals that went to the battery and the starter to make them a tad bigger to fit on the larger posts on the new solenoid. I changed the other ring terminals that go to my key switch and accessories to larger ones, (I have the dogbone eliminated). The starter button wire and the ground clutch diode wire I had to cut loose from the connector and add ring terminals, of course.

Waiting on my replacement starter. But I can tell the solenoid is different. It's instantaneous in it's action and release. I've read a lot of good stuff about this solenoid. And also about the marine one, but not as much. Cars and trucks are in use more than boats may be the reason. In either case, both are much better by far than the cheap a.. solenoid I had on there. Just a note, never buy a cheap solenoid. Too many amps going through there.
Perfect! If there is any issue it might be the start switch might not stand up to the increased draw of the bigger solenoid. Might never be an issue. Good job, but an insulated base solenoid would have been easier.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-20-2017, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Where is the ground for the green/red wire for the clutch diode safety stuff? The marine one was isolated, but it only had four connections. Would I have attached the ground to the "I" post?
Just wondering, I've already installed the Ford one.

About the switch being vulnerable because the solenoid may draw too much to axtivate, maybe Rednaxs can chime in for me. Good point though, as I hadn't thought of that, just the starter amp draw. That's why I went with a heavy duty silenoid. We must always consider all components, as the oem done. Sure wish I could have had this bike brand new, wow! I'm tempted to buy one I've seen in mint condition.

I have never been lost, but I will admit to being confused for several weeks. Daniel Boone
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-20-2017, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
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Where is the ground for the green/red wire for the clutch diode safety stuff? The marine one was isolated, but it only had four connections. Would I have attached the ground to the "I" post?
Just wondering, I've already installed the Ford one.
Insulated base solenoids look like the solenoid with the "I" terminal except that there would not be an "I" printed on any terminal. the 2 small terminals are for the solenoid coil. One is the hot end while the other is the ground end of the coil. When you bolt it to metal it is insulated. (not grounded even though it is bolted to a ground) The insulated base solenoid would have been wired with the yellow/red on one terminal and the green/red on the other. Current would flow in the yellow/red wire, (hot) through the coil and out the green/red while the start button is pushed. If you are in neutral or have the clutch in the green/red wire would be grounded and complete the circuit for the solenoid coil to engage.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 08:40 AM
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The two smaller terminals are for the internal coil. You should connect the yellow/red and green/red to these terminals. If you don't connect the green/red to one of these, you will have to use the clutch lever every time you want to start the bike - the ground through the neutral switch will not work. Should be no issue for the bike original wiring as the relay uses a low current supply to activate the starter solenoid internal coil.

On the battery post, you will have to connect the battery wire, the red ignition wire and the red wire going to the main relay, and the red/white charging wire from the regulator.

With this starter solenoid, you will no longer have the 30 amp fuse protection for the electrical system, or from the charging circuit to the battery. You should consider installing an in-line 30 amp fuse on the red wire to the ignition switch, and one on the red/white wire from the regulator.

The other post is for the starter.

My thoughts.

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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rednaxs60 View Post
The two smaller terminals are for the internal coil. You should connect the yellow/red and green/red to these terminals. If you don't connect the green/red to one of these, you will have to use the clutch lever every time you want to start the bike - the ground through the neutral switch will not work.
The green/red is the same wire for both the clutch switch and the neutral switch, if not connected to one of the small terminals on the isolated base solenoid (or in the case of the ford solenoid if isolated) neither will work.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 12-21-2017, 11:34 AM
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Simple as can be. Nothing wrong with the way you have it now though.
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Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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