It overheated. should I be alright? - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 206 (permalink) Old 12-26-2017, 01:27 PM
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I just punch the rags into the holes a bit, same idea

the black marker for each rag is a great idea

~ John


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post #22 of 206 (permalink) Old 12-26-2017, 01:57 PM
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It'll happen quick, drape a clean rag over the plug holes. You may even want to mark the rag as to which plug hole it covers. Hit the start button, then go search for the rags, they will fly quite a distance! Look for coolant marks when found.
That is a great idea. I can tell you how not to do it also. I suspected a particular cylinder on a V8 and thought that it might be good to have a little light on the plug hole when cranked over. Well, there was lots of water in the cylinder that came flying out. Broke the light bulb and shocked the pi$$ out of me and blew water on my face. Made the guys laugh. That is not the right way!

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #23 of 206 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 08:26 AM
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You might try a leakdown test which I describe in the last paragraph of this post here.....

http://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewto...244409#p244409

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post #24 of 206 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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so i had the chance to do the rag test after letting her sit a couple days. I pulled out the spark plugs and they seemed healthy, they were just moderately covered in gas. then i did the rag test and NOTHING! just air came out. I put the plugs back in and i started her up. just a bit of smoke/steam came out again. I took her out for a long ride, and I intentionally did a lot of stop and go riding to make her angry and overheat. She decided to stay mellow and calm and the heat gauge only ever went about half way at the worst. I came back home and parked her and just a tad bit more smoke/ steam came out again and that was it. I then checked the coolant overflow tank and it was still good. all went pretty smooth. I don't know what to say....maybe she was just throwing a temporary fit? anyhow, I will keep my eye on her for any other suspicious activity. I also will try to do the leakdown test!
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post #25 of 206 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 08:35 PM
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That's wishful thinkin', me thinks.

How's the coolant level in the radiator? (not the overflow bottle)

Why ain't we ridin'?
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post #26 of 206 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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That's wishful thinkin', me thinks.

How's the coolant level in the radiator? (not the overflow bottle)
yeah i feel the same way unfortunately. I didnt get a chance to check the rad since it was sundown and didnt wanna start wrenching then, but i shall tomorrow. when I open the cap tomorrow, should i instantly see coolant? maybe i should drain it all out to check if its mixed with oil?
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post #27 of 206 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 10:12 PM
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You want to find out if it's up to the cap first. I suspect it's close to empty.

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post #28 of 206 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 04:17 AM
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If the rubber hose between the cap and the overflow bottle has a crack in it, the radiator will overflow when it gets hot, but suck air back instead of antifreeze when it cools down.

Had that happen to a 1994 ST1100 that I bought, the guy said 'it seems to overheat".

Replaced that hose with a new one, and all was well.
Make sure the outlet at the radiator cap neck is open, and not plugged with debris.

~ John


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post #29 of 206 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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If the rubber hose between the cap and the overflow bottle has a crack in it, the radiator will overflow when it gets hot, but suck air back instead of antifreeze when it cools down.

Had that happen to a 1994 ST1100 that I bought, the guy said 'it seems to overheat".

Replaced that hose with a new one, and all was well.
Make sure the outlet at the radiator cap neck is open, and not plugged with debris.
hey all! i think I have confirmation now! i went outside to check on her to find a tiny puddle of coolant DIRECTLY under the head. Maybe the rubber hose between the cap and overflow tank has a crack and it dripped from there, but that seems unlikely since i have been having smoke/steam come out my exhaust. would this be considered confirmation? I will check my rad cap and hose anyway for more info, but i have the feeling this is conclusive. Now, if it IS indeed my head, the great news is that i have done this repair before already so it wont be my first rodeo. That being said I have a few questions for y'all. 1) would any of those liquid gasket sealer products be useful in the meantime until the new mother gasket comes in the mail? 2) when i start doing repairs, should I keep posting in this forum, or in the one i made for my last head repair? 3) If it is my head that is blow, why did this happen? is there any other possible reason besides improper installation?
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post #30 of 206 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 05:09 PM
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If you have water coming out from between the block and head that is head gasket confirmation and no sealer etc. will help. Just park it and fix it. If you did not use OEM gaskets that might be the reason for premature failure. That is assuming the head and block are flat. Also torque the heads with a known good torque wrench to the proper torque and toorque in order. Make sure the block and head are clean and dry when you put the head on. No sealers or silicone etc.
One other cause of head gasket failures is getting hot for any reason. A small leak that is not repaired and coolant gets low slowly until one day it overheats and blows the head gaskets. Always keep and eye on the bikes life blood. That is all fluids. Don't trust the reservoir height. Check both the res and the radiator. If the res hose has an air leak the res can be full and the radiator empty. When bikes get this old they need extra TLC to survive.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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