Dragging Brake Update - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DaveO430 View Post
Is the front also dragging? The rear and the front, don't remember left or right, are linked together. If both are dragging the problem would be the master cylinder, if only the rear it may be the rubber hose.

Thanks Dave,
Already replaced the rubber hose and rebuilt the caliper with new seals and pistons. The pedal returns all the way. Yes, the front brake drags as well. Although I took the master cylinder apart and ran a thin wire through the relief hole, it still drags. I'm pretty sure it is the master cylinder that is the issue. Didn't want to rebuild it to put it back on only to find the problem is still there. I'm tired of F*%#*ing with it! Was trying to buy a new one after market, but I guess no one sells them? May have to resort to buying a used one off from Ebay and hope for the best?
Thanks,
Gary
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post #22 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
To add to what Dave said also possible pedal linkage problem if it does not return all the way. Anything is possible on a 33 year old machine. Especially if it sat for some time.
Thanks Redwing,
See my reply to Dave below...
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post #23 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 02:26 PM
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Gary,
If both the front and rear act up it almost must be a master issue. That is assuming nothing really odd like both pistons are sticking etc. Not likely with all your work. What puzzles me is that if the hydraulic lines are not obstructed (and I doubt both are) once the fluid is returning to the master there are really only 2 possible issues. The fluid must return to the resevoir via the small hole and you say you have cleaned that hole. That is the hole in the cast iron part of the inlet of the master. You got that right? If the hole id open nad there are no kinks or obstructions between the master and reservoir the only other possibility I can think of is that the piston seal is not returning back far enough to let the fluid get back to the hole. If you are sure the pedal goes all the way up to the stop, I would ask if you adjusted the pushrod where it is too long? I know you ordered another and somehow I bet it fixes your issue but the original cause is vexing. Let us know if you find the root cause. Bore/piston corroded and dragging? Piston worn bad enough it cocks and hangs in the bore? Inquiring minds want to know....for the next Guy.
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Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #24 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 02:51 PM
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Although I took the master cylinder apart and ran a thin wire through the relief hole, it still drags.
Are you sure you got the relief hole? There are 2 holes, the tiny ( I have to use magnification to see it) hole down in a larger hole is the relief.

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post #25 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Are you sure you got the relief hole? There are 2 holes, the tiny ( I have to use magnification to see it) hole down in a larger hole is the relief.

Yes Dave, it was a very tiny hole that I could only fit a single strand of very fine wire into...
Nothing in the pedal or linkage has changed. The brake started dragging after sitting for an extended period. I removed the rear caliper and rebuilt it with new seals and pistons. Also cleaned and lubed the guide bolt and sleeve. That didn't fix it. I then replaced the rubber brake hose with a new one. That didn't fix it! Then removed the master cylinder and cleaned and poked wire into the relief hole. Installed new fluid and bled. That didn't fix it! I never touched the adjustment of the pedal. It has always been the same and it used to work properly. At this point I am looking to replace the master cylinder. It is the only thing I can think of...
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post #26 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
Gary,
If both the front and rear act up it almost must be a master issue. That is assuming nothing really odd like both pistons are sticking etc. Not likely with all your work. What puzzles me is that if the hydraulic lines are not obstructed (and I doubt both are) once the fluid is returning to the master there are really only 2 possible issues. The fluid must return to the resevoir via the small hole and you say you have cleaned that hole. That is the hole in the cast iron part of the inlet of the master. You got that right? If the hole id open nad there are no kinks or obstructions between the master and reservoir the only other possibility I can think of is that the piston seal is not returning back far enough to let the fluid get back to the hole. If you are sure the pedal goes all the way up to the stop, I would ask if you adjusted the pushrod where it is too long? I know you ordered another and somehow I bet it fixes your issue but the original cause is vexing. Let us know if you find the root cause. Bore/piston corroded and dragging? Piston worn bad enough it cocks and hangs in the bore? Inquiring minds want to know....for the next Guy.

Hi Redwing,
See my reply to Dave...
Thanks
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post #27 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 81MarineE5* View Post
Had a 750 supersport that had all calipers rebuilt.when they reinstalled calipers on rear they left the shim washers off one caliper bolt it caused caliper to drag took weeks to figure out .

Thanks for your input 81MarineE5
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post #28 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 04:52 PM
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Hi Ken,
Not sure how you get to that conclusion? When bleeding the brakes, you are pumping fluid down the main tube and releasing it out the caliper. The return hole is not in use when sending fluid "To" the caliper or pressing Down on the pedal. as I understand it, it is only in use when the pedal is released? If in fact it is clear, then I am really stuck on why my brakes are dragging? I have done everything I can think of!...
Well I guess we beat this one to death, huh? The only thing that maes sense to me given all your efforts is that for some reason the piston is not returning far enough to get behind the little holes and let the fluid return as it should. One more question. How bad does it drag? Get the brakes smoking hot? A slight drag is normal of course, but you know that. Keep us informed on this puzzler.

Mike

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post #29 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-27-2017, 05:11 PM
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I had my driver front brakes stuck/dragging on my Dodge Dually, and rebuilt all the calipers while I had it down, and flushed the fluid. I "honed" out the cylinders on the stuck one (it had a bad/broken seal is why it went bad).

Well, a week later it stuck again. So I ordered a new caliper, and put that on (like most people do instead of trying to fix a stuck caliper). It's Ben two months and all is well. Those pistons fit so tight in the cylinders that any old grime can make them stick.

I'd try a new caliper.
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post #30 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
Well I guess we beat this one to death, huh? The only thing that maes sense to me given all your efforts is that for some reason the piston is not returning far enough to get behind the little holes and let the fluid return as it should. One more question. How bad does it drag? Get the brakes smoking hot? A slight drag is normal of course, but you know that. Keep us informed on this puzzler.

Hi Redwing,
Once the pedal is pushed, the brakes drag so heavily that I can barely roll the bike while in neutral! I have to crack the line to release the pressure. I'm going to try and get a used master cylinder and see what happens... Will let you know. Thanks
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