Dragging Brake Update - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 01:24 PM
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You can get a rebuild kit for that master cylinder. If you are going to replace it, meaning you will have to remove it, might as well rebuild. There is no new replacement for that. Good luck on the removal it's a b---h. You didn't replace the rotors by any chance did you? Standards and Interstates use a 5MM width and the others have 10 MM rotors. I am currently rebuilding a 84 Standard myself, my second one.
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post #32 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 02:23 PM
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post #33 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 03:13 PM
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Thought I would check in while I was there, activity seems to be a bit low.


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Last edited by AZgl1800; 12-28-2017 at 05:47 PM.
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post #34 of 45 (permalink) Old 12-28-2017, 05:18 PM
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From that link, very good to know. Thanks AZ

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Be sure that the push rod is adjusted so that the rear brake master cyl. is released entirely when the pedal is released. The first thing that happens in there is that the return port is covered in the first small amount of piston movement. If it remains covered because of misadjustment it will have the same effect as a plugged return port. Both problems will cause the rear and one of the front calipers to remain applied
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post #35 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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From that link, very good to know. Thanks AZ

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Be sure that the push rod is adjusted so that the rear brake master cyl. is released entirely when the pedal is released. The first thing that happens in there is that the return port is covered in the first small amount of piston movement. If it remains covered because of misadjustment it will have the same effect as a plugged return port. Both problems will cause the rear and one of the front calipers to remain applied

Thanks Jimh352
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post #36 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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You can get a rebuild kit for that master cylinder. If you are going to replace it, meaning you will have to remove it, might as well rebuild. There is no new replacement for that. Good luck on the removal it's a b---h. You didn't replace the rotors by any chance did you? Standards and Interstates use a 5MM width and the others have 10 MM rotors. I am currently rebuilding a 84 Standard myself, my second one.
Hi Dodge,
I have had the master cylinder off a few times now. I have not rebuilt it, just ran a wire through the relief hole and put it back on. Was not that difficult. I have not changed the rotors. I have never touched the pushrod adjustment and the brake used to work fine? Was hoping to find a new master cylinder after market but I guess there is no such thing. I guess I will try a rebuild kit and will re-check the pushrod adjustment first. Thanks
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post #37 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 05:48 PM
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And the saga continues.

As I said earlier if you can bleed the brakes the return hole isn't blocked.

The problem is downstream.

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

Ken.
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post #38 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 09:08 PM
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There is a pressure reducing valve that is not serviceable in the rear master cylinder. I think it's purpose is to reduce rear pressure so the rear wheel does not slide. I am not familiar with the master as I did have an 85 but never a rear brake issue. Are you sure both right front and rear brake is dragging? When it locks do you crack the front? Did you try the rear? Did you try turning the front tire when it was stuck.
I am just beginning to think you might have an issue with the pressure reducing valve but I am not familiar with how it works. The service manual says it is not serviceable but sometimes you can find a way around that.
I would be very interested to know if both wheels lock and if both release by opening the front or rear bleeder.
Might tear into it if you are persuaded that is the issue. Either way you will have to buy another master and it would be very interesting to see what is in there. Beware! it is possible there is a heavy spring. Might be why they say non serviceable. Don't want you to get hurt.
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post #39 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-05-2018, 10:41 AM
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Glad it's easy for you ! Usually the threads on the master are messed up and are hard to start. That internal pressure thingy isn't reachable. If you haven't rebuilt the master it would be a good place to start. Be sure to get you boot cover in right and your split ring in correctly. If you don't the entire internals will move and not function correctly. Just a thought.
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post #40 of 45 (permalink) Old 01-06-2018, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
There is a pressure reducing valve that is not serviceable in the rear master cylinder. I think it's purpose is to reduce rear pressure so the rear wheel does not slide. I am not familiar with the master as I did have an 85 but never a rear brake issue. Are you sure both right front and rear brake is dragging? When it locks do you crack the front? Did you try the rear? Did you try turning the front tire when it was stuck.
I am just beginning to think you might have an issue with the pressure reducing valve but I am not familiar with how it works. The service manual says it is not serviceable but sometimes you can find a way around that.
I would be very interested to know if both wheels lock and if both release by opening the front or rear bleeder.
Might tear into it if you are persuaded that is the issue. Either way you will have to buy another master and it would be very interesting to see what is in there. Beware! it is possible there is a heavy spring. Might be why they say non serviceable. Don't want you to get hurt.
Thanks Redwing!
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