wiring a CB radio without the original stuff built in. - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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wiring a CB radio without the original stuff built in.

If anyone needs to know how to do this, let me know.
I used the original CB button(s), to accomplish this.
I used a DPDT relay (12v), and some fancy wiring to odo this.
I mounted my cb in my left luggage box, and used the left antenna for it.
The right antenna is fm radio only.

Got my swr down to 1. nothing to 1.nothing or right at at it, very close to the needle not moving much at all. (took a while)

All, all wiring to the luggage box is removeable, as I used a 6-pin military style connector. It has plenty of clearence so it doesn't rub or get in the way of anything.
The antenna is simply on a chassis mount pl258 connector (may be pl259, as I forget which is male and which is female.) Remember I am old.

The wiring is the tough part, unless you know how. Encasing it in shrink tubing makes it look better.

I guess I could post a wiring diagram, and parts list, huh?

The handlbar swithes, (key and channel select), now all work to key the mic. Press any button up, down, or in, and it keys the mic.
No fiddling as to which one works, they all do. It does not allow for channel selection. We are always on channel one. But channels can be manually changed on the cb. You have to stop to do it.

I, also, added time, outside temp, and a voltge gauge, USB connectors, and some other stuff....all easy enough. It just takes patience.


let me know

(or should this be in the technical section?)....help! steve.....move it if you need or want to.

Last edited by RadicalRob1!; 01-03-2018 at 03:28 PM. Reason: adding some stuff
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 04:22 PM
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How about I move this to the tech section and you elaborate on how you did it.

With no God over the state, the state then becomes not the defender of liberty but the definer of liberty.


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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-03-2018, 05:50 PM
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ha ha

the PL259 is the one with the pointy thing on the end.

~ John


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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the pl258 is what it goes into, in-line or panel/chassis mount.
I have several in my shop from my days as a com, so-called expert. Some are actually silver, not base metal. That's how old they are.
The military connectors have gold pins, too, not silver or base metal. some people sell them for a lot, some don't. Look around or contact me, as I have a few left, male and female.

Bnc connectors, you name it, over 400 bin boxes full of 'stuff', all labeled.

I will get it together and post diagrams of what it takes.
The antenna connector (pl259/pl258) is simple.

The rest I'll post later today.
I'll take pics of the work, since I have the fairing off, seats, etc.

It's breakfast time 8 am.

thanks Steve.......this must be the right place
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 09:27 AM
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Chassis mount is SO239.

Charlie
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-04-2018, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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I am sure there are many more sources.
Many on-line catalogs that will show the many different pl259 s0239, male/female 258, etc, connectors, available.
I use mouser.com or my local supplier, or list of many many more. You can use fleabay, cramazon, if you want.

I am also sure someone will post, if they think they need to, the numbering scheme of uhf connectors, as to which designates panel mount vs chassis mount vs in-line, etc.
I have no need. I just go pick out what I want to use, or go get it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/UHF_connector
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-05-2018, 05:42 PM
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Sorry, you seem to have misunderstood my intentions. Information given was not for you, but for other readers of this thread. Keep up the good work, electronic projects are always interesting to follow.

Charlie
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-08-2018, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
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oh well, maybe this will cover it.

I only tried to mimick the microphone on the cb, adding the speakers to that at my headset.

it works, is all I can say.

The 6-pin connector runs from the front of the bike [panel connector] to the rear left luggage compartment
to a panel mount connector,. The relay and headset connector, (connected inside my left lower radio panel) all plug into the 6-pin connector in the front..
Everything unscrews and/or unplugs if you need to work on something.
My lower left panel now houses LED time (cmos battery), LED outside air temp (I don't know why, it is just there), LED battery voltage and the helmet/headset connector.
Lower right side houses a cig lighter [think charge your i-phone port] , a 2nd USB charging port and a 2 inch digital, accurate tach (lots of eye flash), and an LED lighted (when activated) fog/driving light switch, -rear WOW lights, for foggy night driving (which I will most likely never see) or just eye flashing people. WAY brighter, in front, than my high beams, too. I think they are 36w led's each side. The LED [built into the switch] comes on when the switch is activated.
Also, added front lower [crashbar mounted] turn signals and turn signals on the fairing [in place of the reflectors].

I changed all of my analog bulbs to LED bulbs, too. Except the front, and front-side lights, but I am looking for one.
Less drag on the alternator.

I chose not to use the trip calculator as I have a GPS installed.
I'll try to show more pics when I am done with the wiring.

I have said it once and I'll say it again, if I am going to be driving, I am going to be seen, particularly in the daytime, but especially at night.
And I have been caught in fog, twice in my deep dark past.
spooky....
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