Lexan Refinishing. - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 77 (permalink) Old 01-27-2018, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I tried the toothpaste on my headlight a couple years ago. A waste of time in my opinion. I used a dab of McGuires and went five minutes with the Harbor Freight buffer...

Done.

Your windshield looks like it could be brought back pretty easily. Those 3M kits are intended for doing 1 to 2 square feet of surface so you'll probably need to get some additional stuff.

After a couple hours of sanding with 150 grit, I'm still not done with the initial job of getting the coating off. So yesterday I dropped into Home Depot and bought a 5 inch sanding pad for the drill. We'll see if that can save some time.

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post #32 of 77 (permalink) Old 01-27-2018, 02:40 PM
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The toothpaste might work well on a "less oxidized" lens/windshield as proven by the improvement on my useless one, but I agree it didn't make the windshield roadworthy. At $27 bucks a pop for the 3M kit, I don't see myself buying more. I'll have to do a better job of not letting the windshield get in the same condition as before.

I'll let you know the results of the "kit" restoration when its done.

Good luck with yours, , , ,
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post #33 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 08:55 PM
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Since the "toothpaste" method was NOT roadworthy IMHO, I decided to use the 3M kit on that half first to see if it improved the appearance. I did NOT improve the other side in any way. The results were definately "roadworthy" on the side with the toothpaste method but it is not close enough to the "new" windshield for me to change em out. This older windshield will serve as a very decent "back-up" if something happens to my current windshield. It was nice to know that the original could be saved and is still worth keeping.

I have absolutely NO IDEA why or how pics 2 and 3 got uploaded upside-down, , , sorry I'm not sure how to "fix" that.

First picture is the original condition the day I removed it from the bike.
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...attach/jpg.gif

The second picture is half the windshield done with the toothpaste method, (not roadworthy BUT, VERY much improved)



The third picture is the 3M method done on the toothpaste method side, (Roadworthy BUT, not enough to motivate me to change from my current windshield)



I used half of the "supplies" that came with the "kit" to do half the windshield so I should be able to complete the project on the other half of the windshield.
All-In-All, , this experiment gave decent results but only 1 thumbs up, , , (not two). Maybe I was expecting too much from a 27 yr old hunk of Lexan/polycarbonate.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Lexan_restore1.jpg (34.7 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg Lexan refinishing_2.jpg (53.1 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg Lexan refinishing_3.jpg (63.1 KB, 19 views)

Last edited by AZgl1800; 02-01-2018 at 09:54 PM.
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post #34 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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That's actually pretty impressive.

My project isn't going as well. I doubt the screen will ever be usable.

I'm sanding by hand and so far have worked my way up to 600 grit paper. I have to go get finer stuff, but the work involved has been considerable, especially for a test. But whatever was put on the plastic, as a clear-coat, seems to have damaged the Lexan, and hours of hand sanding with 150, 220, 320 and 600 grit paper hasn't cleared the surface of the "run marks".
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post #35 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 09:56 PM
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I flipped #2 and #3
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post #36 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-01-2018, 10:32 PM
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I appreciate the help John, , ,how'd you get rid of the darn annoying "picture link" crud on them?? Am I doing something wrong when I upload them? I'd rather NOT have the link stuff listed in my posts.

Dennis, sounds like you're on the right track, the 800 grit and 3000 grit were the final steps to make the surface glass smooth. I already had rubbing compound and polish so I ordered the one without that stuff to save a few bucks. The rubbing compound and the polish steps REALLY cleaned up the surface to the point you see in the pictures. You might try the areas away from the "run marks" to see if the windshield will come back to life, to better judge how much more effort you put into it, (just a thought).
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post #37 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-02-2018, 08:23 PM
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my previous bike had a crack in the dash so i decided to go ahead and fix it myself, the damage was actually in the center piece of the dash which had the tach clock and the sides had clear lcd displays. well in the process of replacing the center piece i damaged the surface on one of the sides. i was really angry at myself because i thought that i actually made it worse.

i ended up sanding until the damage was not longer visible, then went to higher grit until i reached the 2500 grit, then polished using paint polish paste and it ended up looking like brand new, no clear coat needed.

so i guess this can be done to the windshield.
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post #38 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-02-2018, 08:35 PM
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The windshield "project" is completed!! The 3M kit process, followed with my rubbing compound/polishing compound resulted in a restored Lexan windshield.

Picture is the completed windshield
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...attach/jpg.gif

This should be half toothpaste method, and half UNTOUCHED as it came off the bike,


Next is the 3M method on the toothpaste side and nothing on the untouched side,


FINAL RESULTS:


SUCCESS!!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg LexanFinsihed_1.jpg (60.9 KB, 30 views)

Last edited by BLUTHUNDR31; 02-02-2018 at 11:10 PM. Reason: insert pic without pic link info
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post #39 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-02-2018, 09:18 PM
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Dennis,

In your opinion/experience the 3M kit will clean up the headlights on a car?
Our Pontiac Vibe is getting those fuzzy crazed appearance and the lights don't project as well as they did when new.

~ John


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post #40 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-02-2018, 09:27 PM
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ABSOLUTELY !!

One kit would do both headlight lenses.

You'll need;
1. A 3/8 drill (near the 1000rpm style)
2. A spray bottle for water "spritzing".
3. small container/tube of rubbing compound for final step to see crystal clear lense
**Lastly, you should put a coat of a decent "carnuba" wax on the lense for UV protection

**To make the sandpaper grits last longer, I did a "WET SANDING" with each of the steps. You need only a small amount of pressure, , , let the sander do the work
Your work will look "hazy" for each of the sanding phases, as the lens gets progressively smoother. The rubbing compound/polishing/buffing compound is the REAL shocker at the final step. Like with shoe polishing, work that compound all the way to the end, don't wipe it off too early wet, let the polish come to a shine. You're only looking for an evenly looking haze with the sandpaper, , the compound will bring the shine.
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