1985 Aspencade starter - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 03:32 AM Thread Starter
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Location: Bryan, Texas
Year: 1985
Make: Honda
Model: Aspencade
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1985 Aspencade starter

October 19th, 2017 I dropped the bike and broke my ankle. The bike was pushed half a block and parked in our driveway where it sat until 3 or 4 weeks ago. With the ankle starting to feel better I decided to start the bike. I hit the starter and it spun briefly and stopped then the dash lights stopped working. The bike sat for a week with the battery essentially completely dead.

My smart charger claimed it charged but any attempt to start the bike killed the charge on the battery. Put a HF battery maintainer on the battery and let it sit. The maintainer died after getting rained on.

Today I put an older (semi-broken) charger on it that doesn't regulate charge anymore and it was putting about 10 amps into the battery with the voltage around 12.7 V.

Searching the forum it seems that the most common reason for a starter not turning is the engine being hydrolocked. Today I pulled the plugs and tried turning the bike over with the starter and it did not turn. When pushing the start button the head light goes off and I can hear a solenoid click. Checking the voltage at the starter it goes from zero to battery voltage when the start button is pushed. The starter did not turn with 12.7 V at the starter and the plugs out.

Is it possible that the initial attempt to start the bike caused the starter to end up in position where it doesn't see the applied voltage and all it will take to fix it is jarring something loose by tapping on the outside of the starter? Or am I at the point where I need a new starter (or at least a rebuild on this one)? Is it possible to replace the starter without pulling the engine? It did not look like there was much room to move the starter forward to clear the housing.

Spending more time on my wife's hobby than the wing.


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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 04:05 AM
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I have had at one time, a starter with a bad armature segment, and getting it to move just a trifle bit to a new segment made it run....

but, the bad segment causes a loss of starter power.
Most likely you are going to have to pull it out and clean the armature and the brushes.

~ John


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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 10:10 AM
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Might as well put a starter kit in it with new brushes and seals.

GL1100
GL1200
KZ1000
Grizzly 600
CR250

Its always been Mind over Matter. I dont Mind You dont matter.
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Screw View Post
Might as well put a starter kit in it with new brushes and seals.
Like this one? ($30.91)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-REP...7/142316682988

It seems like for the extra money it would be worth buying a replacement starter ($76.90)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-STARTER...6/370896002070

Spending more time on my wife's hobby than the wing.


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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 12:00 PM
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Same kit, most of these kits are made in China. I very seldom need a bearing usually just the rubber seals and brushes but everything is in it it you chose to use it. So many starters are the same motor now days but different front and rear housings. I think the last time I bought brush kits they were 3.00 a piece, and worked on 90% of all the starters I have worked on.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Starter-KIT...xUeXj0&vxp=mtr
This kit is the one I used on mine, its made in china I'm sure. This seller "Caltric" I buy a lot of stuff from them, and they have always always replaced any thing I have had problems with no questions asked. I wouldnt put use there solenoids though, there builder has no quality at all. They will hang up if you crank on them a while and you have to tap them to get them to shut off! The main reason I rebuild my own starter is so I "KNOW" whats in there and how its built. If you use your old bearing be sure and use some white grease on the ends. I have used lubri-plate since the early 80's when building anything boats, cars, bikes.
My preferences when doing things on any bike or power sport vehicle are, "Again this is what I use"
Belts- Gates
Plugs- NGK, Unless Nitrous is used then Autolite.
Oil- Delo or Castrol, Synthetic- Amsoil or the new Pennzoil.
Electronics- Ricks motorsports
Filters-Wix, same as NAPA, Never a Fram.
Lighting - Sylvania
Seals and Carb kits K&L
My phone is always open for questions, just send me a PM and I'll call you its not a bother AND that my friends is how easily I can get sidetracked!!! de John.

GL1100
GL1200
KZ1000
Grizzly 600
CR250

Its always been Mind over Matter. I dont Mind You dont matter.
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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I went ahead and bought the "Caltric" kit on the assumption that it was known to work and $16 was cheap enough that if I ended up buying a starter I would not miss the money too much.

Spending more time on my wife's hobby than the wing.


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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 01:19 PM
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Here is a link to how to rebuild a 1100 starter and the 1200 will be pretty much identical. Very good information here.

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/starterrefresh.htm

Larry

Only two things are infinite... the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 01:21 PM
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Did you try by-passing the solenoid/relay? Battery voltage (jumper cable) to starter with no spin verifies faulty starter.

Libraries are full of stuff I don\'t know.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by glhonda View Post
Did you try by-passing the solenoid/relay? Battery voltage (jumper cable) to starter with no spin verifies faulty starter.
No. I put a voltmeter on the starter terminal. Pushing the start button caused a click at the solenoid and the voltage at the starter terminal changed from zero volts to battery/battery charger voltage at 12.7 V and the starter did not spin. If the problem was somewhere other than the starter I should have seen the voltage drop from the 12.7V and it held steady.

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Scott View Post
No. I put a voltmeter on the starter terminal. Pushing the start button caused a click at the solenoid and the voltage at the starter terminal changed from zero volts to battery/battery charger voltage at 12.7 V and the starter did not spin. If the problem was somewhere other than the starter I should have seen the voltage drop from the 12.7V and it held steady.
Not correct. The voltage drop will not occur until after the load (starter). If there was a voltage drop, I would suspect bad terminals, or cables. Volts are great, but you need amps to spin a starter. Wouldn't hurt you try......

Just re-read your post and we may be saying the same thing?...... Still, we hear a lot of relays "click", but fail to pass amperage. Still wouldn't hurt, and it's a definitive test.

Libraries are full of stuff I don\'t know.
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