1997 Goldwing GL1500 Jerks under 2,000 RPM - Page 11 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #101 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 06:41 AM Thread Starter
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post #102 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 07:41 AM
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The connector C57 is located over the fan on the right side. It is a red 9 pin connector that the 12 volts passes through for the kill switch, then to the coils and ECU. You might want to take a look at that connector checking for corroded or bent pins etc. Also while you have the tupperware off, check C54. It is a white 4 pin connector that all the wires for the coils go through. It is on the right side near the ECU.

Larry

Only two things are infinite... the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former.
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post #103 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bellboy40 View Post
The cTonnector C57 is located over the fan on the right side. It is a red 9 pin connector that the 12 volts passes through for the kill switch, then to the coils and ECU. You might want to take a look at that connector checking for corroded or bent pins etc. Also while you have the tupperware off, check C54. It is a white 4 pin connector that all the wires for the coils go through. It is on the right side near the ECU.
Thanks Larry. I must have corrected the problem as I suspected either the plugs wires might be bad, or the connector on the right side. This morning I removed the plastic side covers on both the left and right sides. I grabbed an old plug that looked good and tested each individual wire one at a time with the engine running. Each plug sparked consistently without any wavoring or skipping. However, I did notice (not sure if it was the wa I was holding the plug) that the two middle wires on both sides didn't seem as strong as the outer wires on each side. Again, probably just a poor observation.

Next I removed each connecter from the harness above the right cooling fan, and man they were gunked from old grease. I didn't know which one was for the coils (until after reading your post just now), and so I cleaned all of them with contact cleaner. Put all back together and presot! Bike runs great again. However, the two plastic tabs on the harness bracket that are supposed to mount the harness atop of the right cooling fan are both broke. I'm not sure if that's bad or not. I suppose I could zip-tie them for now until I order a new bracket assembly for the connectors. But I'm almost certain that's where the problem was. So I will check the specific C57 connector tonight when I get home. I'm going to disconnect them, clean them vigorously with contact cleaner and check for bent or broken tabs or wires. But just for peace of mind, I'm going to replace all of the plug wires next month. I think I can do it without removing the carbs. But if I ever had to replace the coils, god be with the person around me as I'm doing the job. I'm going to curse, swear, and throw crap. I've heard that coils are usually bullet proof on the Goldwing's, so I'm sure they are fine since I didn't see any intermittent sparking. Right now the bike is running good again after cleaning all of the connectors this morning. But now that I know which specific one to look at, I'm going to clean that one again tonight.

Thanks again!
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post #104 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 11:10 AM
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Bummer. While your in there check the spark plug boot resistors for corrosion etc.
If you haven't done so already, they are accessed by unscrewing the slotted head that you will see as you look inside the boot, (if you still have OEM wires).
Also make sure that the drain holes in in spark plug wells are open and free of any standing water.
Probably not your issue but quick and easy to check.
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post #105 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018, 06:06 PM
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Did you pull the plugs right after this happened to see what they looked like? That right there would have told you if it was loaded up with gas from misfiring or carboned up from running rich. It would also tell you what cylinders were an issue.
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post #106 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by busdriver View Post
Bummer. While your in there check the spark plug boot resistors for corrosion etc.
If you haven't done so already, they are accessed by unscrewing the slotted head that you will see as you look inside the boot, (if you still have OEM wires).
Also make sure that the drain holes in in spark plug wells are open and free of any standing water.
Probably not your issue but quick and easy to check.

They appear to be factory wires, and I didn't notice any water or oil buildup in the plug area, so I'm assuming the drains are working correctly. While the wires appear to be in good shape, I still want to replace them just for peace of mind. The problem of course is finding a good set of wires that are not too complicated to install. Any recommendations on a set of good long lasting wires that are already assembled? Or should I stick with factory wires?


Joe
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post #107 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Did you pull the plugs right after this happened to see what they looked like? That right there would have told you if it was loaded up with gas from misfiring or carboned up from running rich. It would also tell you what cylinders were an issue.

I didn't pull the plug, but I did mess around with the red electrical connector on the bracket above the right cooling fan. It appears to be severely corroded, and I believe that is the electrical supply to the coils; correct me if I'm wrong. Bike runs great ever since, although a good carburetor sync and idle mixture screw adjustment is in order. It's possible the bike may be running a bit rich. However, I am waiting til next month to purchase factory mufflers and I'll re-tune/sync the carbs then. I'm also wanting to replace the ignition wires just for peace of mind. Any recommendations on a great set of wires that will work efficiently and is long-lasting?


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post #108 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:


Sorry it's been a few days since my last posting. I wanted to let everyone know that my Goldwing has been riding quite well. She needs a good carb-sync and could use a set of new plug wires. But I am waiting on a few other things before I tackle that. I still have a mind to rebuild the carbs since I have the kit. But there does not appear to be any carb issues, save a few adjustments and tuning. The only reason I would rebuild the carbs is if I had to yank them out in order to replace the coil packs. But at this time, I believe the coils are working as designed. So new wires would suffice.


As stated, she runs fantastic! She had a few jerky moments on the road on these 99 degree hot and humid days, but that only happened in OD at about 30mph and I throttled it a bit too much. A short bounce of the throttle, and she returned to normal. It is my opinion that the carbs need to be tuned to increase fuel mixture efficacy and could explain the occasional bumps I feel at low RPM. Since I've cleaned the electrical connector (red one) above the right cooling fan, the Goldwing continues to drive really well. Thus far, after two tank fillups, I am averaging about 36 mpg to 38mpg. Does anyone know if this is normal fuel consumption for the Goldwing? I have actually considered reducing its idle jet size, and possibly the main jet. But since she drives very well with lots of pull above 2,500 RPM, I presume that the main-jets are just fine and where they need to be. However, I still wonder if the idle jets might be a bit large, and could be causing a slight rich condition. Albeit, I think a proper adjustment of the idle mixture screw should resolve that issue, which really isn't an issue with me at this point.


Upcoming maintenance will be:


1. Replace modified exhaust with factory exhaust
2. Replace plug wires (for peace of mind)
3. Tune carbs after muffler replacement
4. Install missing rear stereo speakers and upgrade front speakers to larger better ones
5. Replace "L" bracket on left side of bike
6. Give the Goldwing a new paint job (I'm a former automotive painter)


Oh, i still need to bleed the front/rear brakes as they feel very spongy. I can pump them on the road, and the pedal gets pretty tight. So it's obvious I have air in the system. But it's been so hot these past few days I I just can't muster up the desire to work in the heat and remove the left saddle bag. LOL


I might also have to consider rebuilding the front forks as the left one appears to be leaking a little bit of oil out of the seal. I suspect one of the struts has more load than the other. They do not appear to be too difficult to remove, but I'll do that on a later date/time.


Anyways, that's where I am at so far. Hope all is well with you all!
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post #109 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 02:18 PM
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Factory wires will be better than anything you get from the aftermarket. Clip a quarter inch off each end and go on to other stuff.

Why ain't we ridin'?
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post #110 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-20-2018, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Factory wires will be better than anything you get from the aftermarket. Clip a quarter inch off each end and go on to other stuff.

Thanks for the advice...will purchase factory wires. I'll let you know how it turns out next month.
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