1997 Goldwing GL1500 Jerks under 2,000 RPM - Page 14 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #131 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 12:38 PM
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I just returned from a round trip to Colorado Springs and I can tell you that my 2001 Suburban damn sure knows the difference between booze fuel and pure gas.


E-0 is very scare in Colorado, but if you search hard enough, you can find it. The Maverick Country Store in N.E. Colorado Springs has it, as does a store down in the south end of 'Springs.


I found in Pueblo, CO that 3 stores that were advertised to carry E-0 don't, but found a Race Track owner that carries E-0 in 91, 100, 110 grades does. filled the Suburban with 91 there, he is just south of the Pueblo Air Museum. great place.


With E-0 the 5.3L v8 in the Suburban will develop enough torque to pull the Toy Hauler which was loaded to 9,000 lbs up grades of 4% without downshifting. 8% grades pulled it down into 1st gear.


with E-10 in the tank, it won't even get up to speed with the CC on and upshift into 3rd gear ( Tow Haul mode )


there is a lot of BTU difference between E-0 and E-10 and when the torque hits the ground it shows up fast. when E-0 will make 8.5 to 9.0 mpg and E-10 only makes about 7.0 mpg it is apparent fast.

~ John


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post #132 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GoldwingA1500 View Post
Just out of curiosity, do you remember the last time you tuned the carbs? If so, do you recall how many turns you did on the idle mixture screws? Mine I set at 3.5 turns. But to be honest, with the idle mixture screws all of the way in, I noticed RPM increases and stabilization at just 1.5 turns and there was no change on up to 3.5 turns. So I just left them their. Perhaps I should do it right and back them all of the way in, and turn the screws out until RPM increases and stop right there.
Unless it was tuned in the first 2245 miles of its existence, the carbs have never been touched. I have put over 170K miles on it since 2004 when I bought it. I've gotten as low as 28 mpg pulling a trailer in a headwind and as high as 43 mpg on a good day of riding with an average of 37 mpg over the last month.

1998 - GL1500 w/175,000 miles
2003 - GL1800 w/106,000 miles
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post #133 of 150 (permalink) Old 07-01-2018, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
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Unless it was tuned in the first 2245 miles of its existence, the carbs have never been touched. I have put over 170K miles on it since 2004 when I bought it. I've gotten as low as 28 mpg pulling a trailer in a headwind and as high as 43 mpg on a good day of riding with an average of 37 mpg over the last month.

Mine is still averaging about 36mpg. Not sure if that's good or bad. Hard to tell with my year model. What's interesting is my friends 98 Goldwing GL1500 seems to average about 40mpg. I'm not sure if the carbs are setup the same as mine or not.
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post #134 of 150 (permalink) Old 07-01-2018, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:


Hi all! Just wanted to let everyone know that I'm still riding with my knees in the wind. Have a little update for you all with the Goldwing.



I found another problem and might explain the reason why the older plugs fouled so easily. It appears the left carburetor float might be failing at times. I noticed that when I fill the bike up to the max (fuel), and park the bike, I can smell fuel leaking down into the intake manifold. This morning, when I started the bike, a ton of smoke came out of the exhaust as though a lot of fuel drained into the intake manifold over night. I know it is the right side. But after driving it for a while and the fuel level drops some, the floats work just fine (as far as I can tell). But this morning you could smell the fuel. Right now there is no fuel smell parked.


If you recall, I originally set the floats at 7mm last summer when I did a partial rebuild of the carbs (cleaning out the jets). Now that I have the kit, I'm going to rebuild the entire thing and soak it in carb cleaner over night, and then blow all the holes and ports out with an air hose. Then I will replace all the seals, jets, and if needed the slide boots. And I will set the floats at 8mm since that is what the book says, although the book also says 7mm. Anyone know which is the correct limit?



I suspect the floats being set at 7mm might be allowing too much fuel into the intake (running rich). I might also have the air-mixture screws set to far out (3.5 turns). I'm going to do it right this time, turn the screws all of the way, and slowly back them out until I see an RPM increase. Even if only 1.5 turns are required, then that is where I will set them. I believe the manual recommends setting them at 2.5 turns initially and adjusting accordingly, in or out.


I'm hopeful that rebuilding the carbs will result in proper fuel mixture, and hopefully boost my fuel economy to about 40mpg, vs. the 36mpg I'm getting now.


On a side note, I was hospitalized for a day due to heat stress. We in SC have been enduring terrible heat indexes of up to 112 (actual temp being 96). But the humidity is terrible in the south east, making the higher temps unbearable at times. What I wouldn't give to live in a dry climate, even if the temperature reached 110 degrees. I've been to the middle east about 11 times during my days in the USAF, and I can honestly say that dealing with dry heat vs. humidity is far better; humidity sucks guys!
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post #135 of 150 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 07:32 AM
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If you have a carburetor flooding when parked you might want to revisit the fuel Petcock valve, it is supposed to shut off the fuel when bike isn't running.....

1972 CL-350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS-550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold
1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
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post #136 of 150 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 07:35 AM
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I am far from an expert on Goldwings but they do have an electric fuel pump so if it is just sitting then no gas is getting to the carb from the tank no matter how full the tank is. So if the manifold is filling up I would check not only the float but also the needle and seat because it could drain what gas is left in the line into the carb even if the float is in the proper position.
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post #137 of 150 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Rickf1985 View Post
I am far from an expert on Goldwings but they do have an electric fuel pump so if it is just sitting then no gas is getting to the carb from the tank no matter how full the tank is. So if the manifold is filling up I would check not only the float but also the needle and seat because it could drain what gas is left in the line into the carb even if the float is in the proper position.
OP mentioned this occurring on a full tank, which can gravity-feed the carburetors even without the pump running...

1972 CL-350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS-550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold
1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
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post #138 of 150 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverWinger View Post
OP mentioned this occurring on a full tank, which can gravity-feed the carburetors even without the pump running...
Agree with this.

on the 1500s, if the fuel tank is full to the cap or nearly so, and the Fuel Petcock Shutoff valve has a bad diaphragm ( pinhole ) it will NOT shut off, and gas flows to the carbs by gravity feed.

And if the floats are not properly set, or the bike is on the sidestand, they won't prevent it from getting flooded.

~ John


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post #139 of 150 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 09:12 AM
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See, told you I wasn't an expert. LOL. I had my tank filled real close to full when I had my carbs off and no gas came out of the line other than what was in the line so that is why I said that. A petcock repair kit came with my bike but I guess I do not need it, the bike sat with the carbs off and the line hanging for several days and no gas came out.
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post #140 of 150 (permalink) Old 07-02-2018, 02:39 PM
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See, told you I wasn't an expert. LOL. I had my tank filled real close to full when I had my carbs off and no gas came out of the line other than what was in the line so that is why I said that. A petcock repair kit came with my bike but I guess I do not need it, the bike sat with the carbs off and the line hanging for several days and no gas came out.
I guess you are correct then, the petcock does not need to be rebuilt. It is doing its job quite well.

1998 - GL1500 w/175,000 miles
2003 - GL1800 w/106,000 miles
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