1997 Goldwing GL1500 Jerks under 2,000 RPM - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #21 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by busdriver View Post
Good video, beautiful and super clean bike.

When you check the vacuum hoses make sure to squeeze, bend and manipulate them as some splits and cracks may not be visible otherwise.
Also pay attention to hoses that have a preformed bend as they can collapse along the inside radius of the bend.
Thanks for the compliments. It's taken me months to get it that clean. The gentlemen I purchased it from kept it outside all year long, and only road it maybe 3 or 4 times a year. Those poor carbs were a complete mess when I took them apart as they were gunked in ethanol corrosion (green and brown). Plus he lived on a farm and the bike was filthy dirty, and I mean filthy! I use a spray/wax cleaner from the autoparts store...can't think of the name. I've tried the stuff sold at Honda, but it sucks...leaves a white streak and really doesn't shine all that well. Once I'm done with the mechanical side, then it's time to pull all of the covers off, and I'm going to paint it (I used to do paint and body work); same color of course.

I've replaced nearly every vacuum hose on the bike except the PAIR system hoses, and the three hoses that go to the IASA Valve. I also changed the troubled hoses under the carbs as one of them had a hole at the bend.

I think sometime tomorrow I'm going to yank the plugs off and perform a compression test to make sure none of the valves are sticking. I've seen this happen before although on automotive engines. My 5.7 Vortec misfired a lot and I thought it was worn rings. I yanked the engine out and rebuilt the entire bottom half first. When I got to the heads, that's where I was stunned. Half of the exhaust valves were caked with ethanol corrosion; it's a sticky gew that stretches like cheese when it's wet, and smells like burnt corn when you use a drill and wire brush; the crap is very hard to get off. Normal carbon buildup is easily removed with parts cleaner. But ethanol corrosion has kind of like a tacky candy-apple texture. And because the gentlemen I purchased the bike from used ethanol in the bike, and left it sitting up for more than a year without fuel treatment, I wouldn't be surprised if the valves are not closing.

The troubleshooting continues.
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post #22 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 12:48 AM
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You are extremely thorough and determined, and will no doubt eventually discover the cause. Keep up the good work.
Looking forward to you sharing your "a ha" moment with us.
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post #23 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 02:13 AM
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It seems like the slides are sticking, and not returning to the correct position due to some reason.

Last edited by Erdeniz Umman; 06-10-2018 at 04:02 AM.
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post #24 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 04:44 AM
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An ignition or internal engine problem not likely IMO. Verify air jet controller hoses are connected correctly (bottom port of both carbs connected to same common hose and likewise with top port hoses and that they go to the correct AJC, one is for the idle circuit the other main circuit.

Observe carb slide action by looking into carbs while it is acting up, they should always be moving in tandem with a tell-tale spray of fuel where the needle enters the carb body.

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post #25 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 05:26 AM
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Check this thread. https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...em-solved.html
And don't waste your money on high octane fuel, goldwings are designed to run on regular.

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post #26 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by busdriver View Post
You are extremely thorough and determined, and will no doubt eventually discover the cause. Keep up the good work.
Looking forward to you sharing your "a ha" moment with us.
No doubt my friend. I will definitely share the "ah ha!" moment with everyone. It's too bad this bike doesn't have a computer interface where I can read all the sensors from a computer screen, as opposed to relying on old-fashioned troubleshooting. If only I could see everything happening on a PC monitor; fuel mixture, exhaust emissions, vacuum system, etc. But hey! That's what being a real mechanic is all about; knowing the entire system, what each component is supposed to be doing and when, and the basic fuel delivery and compression/timing stuff.

More to come!

Joe
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post #27 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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It seems like the slides are sticking, and not returning to the correct position due to some reason.
I'm with you on this one. Although to me it feels as though the slides are not pulling back far enough until sufficient vacuum pressure in the airbox is achieved, and then more fuel is delivered and thus yielding more power. I swear it's as though the engine is not getting enough fuel as the low RPM spectrum, and the jerking is pre-ignition from a lean condition; this is where I'm at right now for my prognosis.

I tested the AJ2 and AJ3 solenoids last year. But I noticed at that time that with AJ2 open upon throttle advancement, no vacuum is felt at all; the same with AJ3. Should their be a slight vacuum from the AJ2 and AJ3 solenoids when they are opened? I felt nothing from them so I'm not even sure why the solenoids are even there. I even checked for vacuum from the hoses BEFORE they are connected to either solenoids, and again there was nothing. So it left me wondering why the AJ2 and AJ3 circuits have a secondary filter when no vacuum is being drawn. Are the AJ2 and AJ3 circuits part of the carb-slide air behind the boots of the slide?

Joe
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post #28 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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An ignition or internal engine problem not likely IMO. Verify air jet controller hoses are connected correctly (bottom port of both carbs connected to same common hose and likewise with top port hoses and that they go to the correct AJC, one is for the idle circuit the other main circuit.

Observe carb slide action by looking into carbs while it is acting up, they should always be moving in tandem with a tell-tale spray of fuel where the needle enters the carb body.
I've had the cover off and I know CV carbs must have a vacuum for the slides to pull back far enough. However, I've run the engine up while looking at the carb slides, and they pull back to some degree, but not enough to see fuel being drawn except from what I can see from the accelerator pump tubes; lots of fuel emits from both the left and right accelerator pump sprayers. But I cannot see any fuel being sprayed from the carb throat as air is being drawn. Could this be the problem? I saw a video on YouTube where a guy rebuilt his carbs, and his carbs sprayed fuel big time, but I cannot see anything on mine EXCEPT from the accelerator pump tubes.

I also noted that no vacuum could be felt before or ever AJ2 and AJ3 circuits. So why does it even have a secondary filter if there is no vacuum pressure felt, even at high idle?

Also, while at idle, I noticed the PAIR induction tube on the front ride side of the filter box is drawing air even when at idle. Isn't the PAIR supposed to be closed at idle? Mine is open unless I throttle heavy enough for the PAIR to close, and the gurgling noise you hear vanishes. Once the engine returns to idle, the PAIR opens again and vacuum can be felt from the PAIR induction tube where also a gurgling sound is heard. Again, is this normal because the book doesn't tell you the parameters for PAIR operation.

Joe
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post #29 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Check this thread. https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/...em-solved.html
And don't waste your money on high octane fuel, goldwings are designed to run on regular.
I saw this old thread last year, and that was my first guess that the carb-controller might be receiving false information from the coolant sensor. I have not yet changed the item because the problem that I am having is observed in both cold and hot running conditions.

The only indication that I am getting is the bike seems to run better (although still jerky below 2,000 RPM) in cold weather with 87 Octane fuel being used. But in hot days like this, 87 Octane spark knocks and thus causes the jerking. 93 reduces this problem but does not eliminate it. This is why I'm still under the impression that I have a severe lean condition at low RPM, and thus causing the jerky spark-knock. Something is telling me that it may be time to pull the carbs out again...I might have done something wrong.

Joe
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post #30 of 150 (permalink) Old 06-10-2018, 11:08 AM
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Doesn't the knock indicate an ECM problem?

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