GL1200 carb backfire issues - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-03-2018, 04:52 PM
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Year: 1986
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Originally Posted by glhonda View Post
There is wax in all fuels. The gas we get today can easily separate if it sets for any length of time. The fuels evaporate and leave the wax behind. No amount of additives is going to remove it. Pull the bowls off, blow out the jets and idle circuits, check the float levels, and install new bowl gaskets. Randakk offers great kits. But I've found the 1200 carbs are very forgiving and seldom need more than the bowls removed for a good cleaning.

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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-07-2018, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Charlottesville, VA
Year: 1986 and 1997
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Model: Gl1200 Aspencade and GL1500SE
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Hi All again...a quick update...realized after reading all your replies over again that the chemical clean cure would probably not work...had a couple days before life gets too complicated for a while so I bit the bullet and removed the carbs...I took the float bowl off #4 first since that was the lean plug...sure enough, both jets were completely blocked...the other carbs had some blockage in the idle jets...now all are clean...everything else looks good...waiting for new gaskets to get here next week...I think it's gonna work out fine...
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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Year: 1986 and 1997
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Hi again, gentlemen...the story continues...I put the carbs back on and she started right up and seemed to be much smoother...but each time I started her up she backfired through the muffler...also noticed that the choke didn't seem to work nearly as well as before...then I realized that I had not reconnected the vacuum line at the 3-way joint above the air cleaner...so I reconnected that hose and took her for a ride...acceleration was very flat and backfiring was no better...tried to accelerate on the interstate but she would not go over 50 or 55...backfiring seems to happen whether I'm accelerating or decelerating...the gas gauge showed two bars so I stopped and filled the tank with no-ethanol gas...no improvement...I am now trying to balance the carbs but the vacuum seems to be wandering...as soon as I think the balance is correct, it seems to change and wanders a bit as she sits there idling...I'm stuck...
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 12:37 PM
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Two questions:
1. Where did you get the gaskets and did they come in a kit with float valves and jets?
2. How did you adjust the floats?

Why ain't we ridin'?
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Year: 1986 and 1997
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thank you for the quick reply...I got the gaskets from Partzilla.com...also got float bowl gaskets from Randakks but they didn't come in time to use...I only used the o rings for the drain screws and the float bowl gaskets...no floats or jets...I cleaned the jets thoroughly and was sure all holes were clear...the floats were a pinkish-tan plastic and they looked new...made a 7.5mm gauge from a credit card (pict), tilted the carbs back from vertical until the floats just opened, and inserted the gauge between the carb body float bowl surface and the metal tab on the float...only one seemed out of spec and I moved that tab maybe a millimeter...
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Bike...and Dennis--your question about the floats prompted me to go look at the pictures of float setting in the manuals...after closer inspection of the pictures, I realized that I had not been measuring correctly...tomorrow I think I will be able to take off the carbs again and check all the floats and also my vacuum connections...I will get a new set of spark plugs too...
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018, 10:21 PM
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Have you checked the large O-rings at the bottoms of the large intake tubes? You can inspect them, but the usual first test is to spray carb cleaner/ether around them at idle and a bit above and seen if the sound/performance changes. If they're OEM, then they have been under heat and compression for 33 years. On my '85 Aspy the ones on the bike were about half as thick as the new ones I installed, which evened out the running at idle and speed a lot smoother. If they leak air (IN, since under vacuum) the bike runs lean and inconsistently so.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-18-2018, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Well...when I removed the carbs and drained them, nothing came out of #3 float bowl...aha!, I said...I took off the floatbowl covers and looked carefully at the pictures and description for setting the height...I made a measurement device like the ones online from a Raisin Bran box...not adjustable, but the height measurement I made sure was 7.5mm (see pict)...spent a long time being sure each float was set correctly...installed the Randakk float bowl gaskets, reused the large intake o-rings (new, from the week before...thank you, Cornpone!), replaced the o-rings on the secondary air supply tubes, made sure the vacuum lines were sealing...she sounded great when I started her up...went for a test ride just now...still backfiring through exhaust under acceleration...adjusted the choke cable so that it was not lightly on...then I tried adjusting the pilot screws...no matter what the setting on #1 and #3, there was no effect on the idle speed...#2 and #4 adjustment had the expected effects...all the screws were set at 2 turns out initially...I had not fooled with them before...didn't take them out for the carb cleaning...sounds like I should have...now, when sitting at idle and I crank on the throttle, she will sometimes backfire slightly or slightly hesitate right at the beginning of throttle opening...multiple crankings on the throttle sometimes produces a loud backfire. Should I remove the pilot screws on #1 and #3 and squirt in some carb cleaner? or what?
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Hi All...here's the resolution...after the third carb cleaning in which I thoroughly cleaned the pilot screws and passages, the backfiring was worse...it finally occurred to me that it was only backfiring on the right side and that maybe I had the plug wires reversed...wa-lah! She started and runs beautifully now...yet to test ride but the motor sounds great...still have idle wandering going on and now none of the pilot screws affect the idle even when screwed all the way in...still searching for answers to those questions but happy it runs well now...
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staylor1946 View Post
Hi All...here's the resolution...after the third carb cleaning in which I thoroughly cleaned the pilot screws and passages, the backfiring was worse...it finally occurred to me that it was only backfiring on the right side and that maybe I had the plug wires reversed.

As I was reading this thread I was having that thought. If your pilot screws are having no effect you probably still have blocked passages & are actually idling off the transition ports under the throttle plates. They have to be clear all the way from the jet to the port in the carb throat and to the air passage at the rear of the carb where the plastic pipe from the slow air cutoff connects & the air cutoff valve itself.

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