It Worked!! Got the rear brakes bled. GL1500 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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  • 3 Post By oldmopars
  • 2 Post By Ken Bergen
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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It Worked!! Got the rear brakes bled. GL1500

One of the new Goldwings I picked up, the 1500 had no rear pedal, air in the lines. I played and played with it with no success.

Then I watched a video about how to bleed it. He said to put a heavy weight on the pedal over night. I used a small jack handle to keep it down.

I came back out the next day and I was able to get the brakes to bleed and I now have a nice hard pedal. May have to send back the parts I ordered. I thought for sure I was going to have to replace the rear master and was not happy about the amount of work involved.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 06:00 PM
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That's good news.


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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 10:15 PM
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-24-2018, 10:25 PM
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So Henry's Law has more applications that giving divers the bends.
Who would've thought?

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

Ken.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 10:49 PM
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I don't get it.
After searching around on yootoob I found (I think) the video referenced but I don't understand what is happening here.
What does pressure in the lines do for the air bubbles in the lines? Why would leaving pressure in the lines for a longer period of time help remove the air? Where do the air bubbles go? If they are traveling up (which they have to do) then they are stuck at the pedal/master cylinder valve and can't get into the reservoir to be eliminated.
Right?
He said open the bleeder valve before removing the weight from the pedal.
But if there is a bunch of air trapped just below the Master Cylinder valve shouldn't you just release the pressure and let the air float back up into the reservoir?
But of course that rarely works because it's almost never a straight upward shot into the reservoir.

What am I missing?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronzDad View Post
I don't get it.

What am I missing?
Henry's Law.

Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"

Ken.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-25-2018, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Bergen View Post
Henry's Law.
So wouldn't the dissolved air in the line just degas once the pressure is released?


Still doesn't make sense. If Henry's Law is what's at work here then as soon as the pressure is released it should fizz up like opening a bottle of soda.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 12:29 AM
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I thought it was Boyle's Law? from MEN OF HONOR ... u are a LUCKY MAN... I hope my rear brake caliper rebuild from STUCK pistons in caliper= no rear brake, works ok. parts coming, took line off and hung it up as high as I could get the line, higher than the back brake master cylinder. that should keep the fluid in the system and the air bubbles out?? just hate running all that old nasty brake fluid thru the freshly rebuilt with love caliper/pistons/O rings.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 05:21 AM
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The spongyness will return. I always stuck a short piece of 2x2 in there to hold the pedal down when parked in the garage to prevent that. It did.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 09:57 AM
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[QUOTE=oldmopars;5772831... put a heavy weight on the pedal over night. I used a small jack handle to keep it down...[/QUOTE]


I find that a 1-Gallon Can of Paint is the P-E-R-F-E-C-T weight setup, for this operation... simply Hang it from the pedal


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GL1500, 1990SE, 220k miles
Front: Bridgestone Battlax BT45, 41psi
Rear: Austone 175R16, 50psi

GL1800, 2003, 60K miles [following virginity reconstruction]
Front: Bridgestone Battlax BT45, 41psi
Rear: Pirelli Winter Snowcontrol Series3, Run Flat, 41 psi
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