The Diva killed the battery - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-10-2018, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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The Diva killed the battery

I'm not sure where this started. A week of fantastic riding in eastern Oregon, or some bone head didn't check the electrolyte level in the battery. On Tuesday the diva was making a run up to the nearby Pink n Pull for rare 1999 Mercury Cougar parts. When she started up she didn't display the normal eagerness to run. It turned over a little slowly before starting off. It is about three miles to the freeway and everything was fine till merging onto the freeway. She started cutting out and finally died.
After sitting out in the sun for an hour and a half the wrong tow truck showed up. It was a hook. A few choice words with the driver and he as on his way. While waiting it was determined the battery was boiled off. The battery was pulled and we went out and we went out to the nearby Honda Powersports. They provided a sealed battery, it was installed and the Diva drove home.
Now the fun begins. When the bike got home the new battery charge was low. It was put on the charger overnight at 2 amps in auto mode. After sitting two days it measured fully charged at 12.7 volts. When the bike was started the charging system measured 12.1 to 12.2 volts with the engine running. She went out for a short ride. Voltage never went over 12.2. Back in the garage the battery was down to 12.5. This is not looking good.
Stator checked between 7.8 and 12.4 ohms and no shorts to ground. When the bike was put back on the road in '16 the stator connector was found to be cut out, the wires were twisted together and wrapped with a big tape ball. The tape ball was replaced with 3.9 mm crimp connectors. On inspection one of these was showing heat distress. These were removed and the wires soldered together today.
The next thing to do will be check the grounds and regulator rectifier.

Jim Palmer
Current rides:
\'85 GL1200I Garage Find
\'81 GL1100 Std
\'72 CB450K5
My \'81 Restoration:
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-11-2018, 12:08 AM
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All the resistance readings seem high. I think just an ohm or two is normal. Do the same test but check for AC voltage at 3.000 RPM. Should be over 50 volts AC.


Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-11-2018, 02:09 AM
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solder those connections, crimp terminals are NOT good for heavy currents.
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~ John


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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-11-2018, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
All the resistance readings seem high. I think just an ohm or two is normal.
I agree with the ohm readings being high. The fact that the values are different is highly suspect.
I have tested BAD stators that show 70 volts AC using the test in the video. It is not a valid test, since there is no load on the system? I would also point out that you won't find it in any Honda manual. Windings that are not open and not shorted to ground will produce voltage if the rotor is good.

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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-11-2018, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by glhonda View Post
I agree with the ohm readings being high. The fact that the values are different is highly suspect.
I have tested BAD stators that show 70 volts AC using the test in the video. It is not a valid test, since there is no load on the system? I would also point out that you won't find it in any Honda manual. Windings that are not open and not shorted to ground will produce voltage if the rotor is good.
People get confused between measuring resistance and inductance of a circuit. Both are expressed in ohms, but inductance is different than resistance. There is mutal inductance between the magnet and coils in an alternator and the coils in the stator. If you want to make your head hurt just go google how to measure inductance. That is why Honda does not give ohm readings in the FSM.

It is pretty clear the alternator stator is suspect. It seems like heat can cause the insulation in the windings to fail. This can cause a winding to winding short within the coils. I agree, if the coils are not shorted to ground or an open circuit, the alternator can produce voltage (electrical potential) but at a limited amperage (current). Before committing to changing it I want to make sure it the rest of the system is functioning correctly.

So what is the best stator to buy? I see Randakk has one but he is pretty proud of it and doesn't back it up with warranty. There are cheap one on ebay. What about Rick's Motorsports? I less worried about cost, but I don't want to do this again.

I like this one, it appears to be epoxy coated: https://www.electrosport.com/product...-1200-goldwing

The regulator rectifier should be updated too. This looks good: https://www.electrosport.com/product...1000-1100-1200

Jim Palmer
Current rides:
\'85 GL1200I Garage Find
\'81 GL1100 Std
\'72 CB450K5
My \'81 Restoration:
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-11-2018, 02:33 PM
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Randakk's only asks 116 bucks for their stator. Read the fine print before you order.

https://www.randakks.com/upgraded-st...nd-gl1201.html

It really looks like the same animal as the Electrosport.

Why ain't we ridin'?
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-11-2018, 02:46 PM
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I can only say that I R&Red my 1200's stator in late '90s, used Honda unit, still good.

I cut out a bad connector at same time, replaced with new Honda stator plug kit after taking each wire / connector out of plastic housing and soldering the crimp area. Also took three 12 ga wires from connector bypassing Reg/Rec plug, spliced to three what looked like steel wires from Reg/Rec, crimped with brass tube sections, soldered. I packed new stator plug with dielectric compound, still bright and shiney brass terminals and no sign of heat.
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File Type: jpg Stator plug 1998 fix Honda # 31105-ML8-305 taken 011612.jpg (104.5 KB, 19 views)
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-11-2018, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JamesPal View Post


The regulator rectifier should be updated too. This looks good: https://www.electrosport.com/product...1000-1100-1200
from reading the description of this regulator, I feel that it is the new Series Regulator design, and not the shunt regulators that draw current to load the stator down to prevent overcharging.

the price is sure right.

~ John


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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-11-2018, 03:16 PM
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I bought my first stator from Rick's in 1983 for my gl1000. Since then I've installed seven or eight on various bikes, but never twice. I got cheap a few years back and installed an RM stator. DON'T confuse the two. The RM lasted forty seconds, couldn't get my money back, and just a terrible experience all the way around. I did want to try one of the new FET regulators one of these days though.
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-12-2018, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glhonda View Post
I bought my first stator from Rick's in 1983 for my gl1000. Since then I've installed seven or eight on various bikes, but never twice. I got cheap a few years back and installed an RM stator. DON'T confuse the two. The RM lasted forty seconds, couldn't get my money back, and just a terrible experience all the way around. I did want to try one of the new FET regulators one of these days though.
glhonda, is the the stator you are describing? https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com...-Stator-21_102

Made in USA and a one year warranty, that sounds good. Thinking of the installation, it looks like the engine rear cover and clutch cover gaskets are required. I have read a couple cautions about getting the stator cocked or out of alignment and using a hammer to push the stator into the rear cover. What are these issues about?

Jim Palmer
Current rides:
\'85 GL1200I Garage Find
\'81 GL1100 Std
\'72 CB450K5
My \'81 Restoration:
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