GL1500 tail light fuse - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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GL1500 tail light fuse

My 1993 1500A over the years has blown the tail, meter, position fuse about every 1000 miles or so, and I just replaced the fuse and it was good to go again. But this time there is a direct short and the fuse blows instantly. But when I use a OWM meter on the fuse holder there is no reading to ground, What am I missing?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 04:03 PM
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My 1993 1500A over the years has blown the tail, meter, position fuse about every 1000 miles or so, and I just replaced the fuse and it was good to go again. But this time there is a direct short and the fuse blows instantly. But when I use a OWM meter on the fuse holder there is no reading to ground, What am I missing?
Are you referring to the # 8 tail illumination (15-amp) fuse.....??

If so, that powers the "load voltage" to the # 3 tail main relay.

Check that # 3 relay and its contacts. You want to have clean and tight contacts.

That relay powers a lot of different items on your bike. Any of which could be causing the short to ground....!!

I would recommend you narrow the short down to the front or rear of the bike by doing the following:

Disconnect the White 22-pin connector (with 12 wires) located under the seat, left side.

Does the fuse still blow.....?? If not the issue is on the rear of the bike. If it still blows, the issue is on the front of the bike.

Depending on your results, we can help you with what is controlled by the #3 relay.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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The fuse is labeled ( tail, meter, position) I will give it a try, Thank's
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 04:42 PM
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The fuse is labeled ( tail, meter, position) I will give it a try, Thank's
Yep, that's the one..........!!
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 06:28 PM
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Excuse me for chiming in, while checking for either short or continuity I use the setup shown in the picture. The look alike fuse I custom made it, plugged in the fuse holder (with lamp attached) and powered if there is a short the lamp will be on, wiggle the wires where you suspect is the short until the lamp is to come off. You'll get better and faster indication than keep blowing fuses.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-20-2018, 08:32 PM
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. But when I use a OWM meter on the fuse holder there is no reading to ground, What am I missing?
If the relay is not energized there will be no continuity through it. You could go to the power out side of the relay but then you are getting continuity through all the items on that circuit so an OHM test will do you no good anyway. You just have to disconnect things until the short goes away, starting with ANY added on accessories.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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200

Good news bad news. I rode the last 200 miles without tail lights and this morning I went out to find the problem only to find that all the lights worked when I put a new fuse in. I took the saddle bag of to check the trailer plug wiring and twisted and bent all the wires that I could see and still the lights all worked. The good news is that I went to the front of the bike and just notched the wiring to the foot rest and the lights went out. Thank's for the help!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 11:30 AM
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Good news bad news. I rode the last 200 miles without tail lights and this morning I went out to find the problem only to find that all the lights worked when I put a new fuse in. I took the saddle bag of to check the trailer plug wiring and twisted and bent all the wires that I could see and still the lights all worked. The good news is that I went to the front of the bike and just notched the wiring to the foot rest and the lights went out. Thank's for the help!
This is why its a good idea to have a separate fuse block. You can power all your "add on electrical accessories" from the fuse block (separate from your OEM electrical system). Then when a short occurs, you don't have any issues with the OEM electrics.

Seems to me if you had done the check at the White 22-pin connector I recommended, you would not have needed to remove the saddlebag and check the trailer hitch wiring.

I usually try to make recommendations to isolate issues as much as possible, sometimes that can save doing extra work etc.

Glad you found the issue.......!
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-21-2018, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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This is why its a good idea to have a separate fuse block. You can power all your "add on electrical accessories" from the fuse block (separate from your OEM electrical system). Then when a short occurs, you don't have any issues with the OEM electrics.

Seems to me if you had done the check at the White 22-pin connector I recommended, you would not have needed to remove the saddlebag and check the trailer hitch wiring.I
I usually try to make recommendations to isolate issues as much as possible, sometimes that can save doing extra work etc.
Glad you found the issue.......!
I thank you for that advice but its hard to trouble shoot something that is working and the extra fuse block I do have for everything else but the foot boards and the trailer plug wiring. Thank's again!
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 10:44 AM
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I have the White 22-pin connector (with 12 wires) located under the seat, left side disconnected...Still blowing the #8 fuse...no additional accessories...bulbs are out of front driving lights..I did replace the #3 relay, and have most of the plastic off...Can you suggest what my next step(s) should be...
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