Thoughts on finding a vacuum leak - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 01:02 AM
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I agree with Stans. More likely than not it is the primary vacuum lines coming off the base of the carbs. Not only leaks in additional air, but screws up the entire vacuum system. Well, at least half of it, if only the 90 degree one is leaking, but I guarantee that the other primary vacuum lines are cooked to death and need replacement; up to where you hit the grey vacuum hoses. It's a design thing, including the Farkin' heat-trapping mat on top of the engine. It ain't the easiest job to fix, but there are videos to help. Whether they mention it or not I'll give you a tip to make the job far easier: Remove the two radiator fans and it all becomes quite doable. Re-synch the carbs when the primary vacuum system is replaced. Instead of buying OEM parts, simply put "sweeps" in the new vacuum hoses, get rid of the farkin' heat-trapping mat while you're in there, and I'll bet you'll never have to deal with it again.!
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 09:46 AM
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Instead of buying OEM parts, simply put "sweeps" in the new vacuum hoses, get rid of the farkin' heat-trapping mat while you're in there, and I'll bet you'll never have to deal with it again.!

supposedly, that mat is to prevent Heat Soak on the carbs during brief shutdown periods.... causing the carbs to boil over while you are inside the DQ
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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 09:49 PM
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supposedly, that mat is to prevent Heat Soak on the carbs during brief shutdown periods.... causing the carbs to boil over while you are inside the DQ

That's exactly what the mat is for, and having it in there is good for start/stop downtown Tokyo traffic in summer. But if, like most of us, you prefer to be out on open roads instead of putting around downtowns it is pointless, and I'd say a negative. All I know is that after I performed the primary vacuum system/isolators replacement and while in there replacing the OEM carb gasket and took the bike for a ride all he had to say was, "Thank God you got rid of that farkin' mat; it was stifling me!" True story.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-24-2018, 10:27 PM
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Next update. The carburetors are off. I have checked all the vacuum line below as everyone has suggested and have found nothing wrong. From the looks of things I am going to say that the lines look pretty good and I think maybe they have already been changed at least once in the life of this bike. I think that because of how good they look and because I found a piece of the top of a number 18 tube with its little clamp at the bottom of everything. But I am not sure I am stumped and again here is why. Once I got everything unhooked and loosened the screws to the carb boots I was absolutely stunned when the left side was just loose and the right side I had to pull and tug and jerk before it finally popped off. The left carb, from the underside is caked with all sorts of dirt, oil and such while the right side is absolutely clean. My conclusion is that the left carb was never seated properly whenever the previous work was done and it just took this long for it to work loose enough to cause real problems. Any thoughts? I will be ordering new boots and maybe a new mat as I might have chewed the other up a bit. I have one hose to replace because I ripped it getting it off and then we will assemble everything and see if I am right. I will still continue to check, look, examine, and scope out all the lines as I wait for parts to arrive.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 06:23 PM
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If it was me, I would go ahead and replace that hose that has the 90 bend in it that is pictured in post #10. I would replace it "just because" and you are already there with your hands on it.

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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 06:48 PM
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The good news is if your left carb was not seated into the insulator that would be a likely point for your lean running condition.


If your grit on the carb is similar to this then the bad news is you likely have a leaking float bowl gasket.
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 07:07 PM
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Yes and yes. The loose "isolator" (what Honda calls the carb boots) is the likely source of the leak and yes, I'd replace all the hoses while in there. Hoses are cheap, especially since I just use the right size hose, not the OEM 90 degree angle jobs. As I'm about to post re a GL1200 carb question, I'm so anal after dealing with vacuum leaks that when I rebuild carbs I use mini zip-ties to make sure they're sealed tight.
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 04:37 AM
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No way, would I put that back together without replacing every single one of those vacuum hoses.....


they are dirt cheap, and it takes 3 days to get down into there again.

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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-26-2018, 11:25 AM
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Pulling the carbs might be your option. Have a 92 A which cruse control stopped working. found a solft #6 vac line. replaced all I could reach. And that included pulling the carb. The one under the carbs was colapsed and had a large hole in it. Back together again cruse working . Cruse used to light up but not kick in. Now it does . As the Kid Dragon often says "take that deep breath and dive in."
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