1984 GL1200 Standard - new issue - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Los Angeles
Year: 1984
Make: Honda
Model: Gl1200 Standard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
Assign any of the wires a letter A-B-C in any order. Put the two probes of your voltmeter from A to B then A to C then B to C.
The engine should be running at about 3,000 RPM and the plug unplugged or wires cut if hard wired. You are testing the 3 wires from the stator (engine side) You should see in excess of 50 volts AC. Again that is 50 volts AC. (VAC) That is for all 3 tests. (all 3 legs of the stator))
Thanks, makes sense now. Will do that check hopefully tomorrow or the next day. I really hope I don't have to pull the engine again.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 07:09 PM
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Man! I hope it ain't that Randakk stator, for your sake and mine.

I've already bought one to use in my newer motor rebuild/change-out project on my 1100.

I think now I'm at least gonna Ohm it out before I commit to it.

Let us know the results of that test.

For what it's worth and if I may be so bold? The current rebuild of the `80, `81, `82 & `83 GL1100STDASPENSTATE can be followed on classicgoldwings.com in a thread called "The plan is to turn 140,000 into 50,000."

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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 07:32 PM
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I hear a lot about stators bound to fail. My 1970 CB750 has 60,000 miles on it and the stator works fine (with an Oregon MC Parts reg and rec). I've had no end of charging problems with the '75 GL1000. I've run all the tests, consulted with a friend who's an electrical engineer and ALWAYS the problem was a melted connector.
Although my advice is more-or-less worthless and I don't know how your electrics compares with mine, here it is: Chuck the Honda regulator and rectifier (in your neighbor's yard if you can throw them that far). Get on ebay and find an FH008EE regulator/rectifier from a CBR600RR and hook it up using Anderson Powerpole Connectors, the 30 amp version. On the '75 the FH008EE bolts to the battery holder without modification. The stock connectors cannot handle the current between the stator and the reg & rec. The Andersons can. I wired in Andersons at every connection involving serious current.
But it's happy hour and I most likely don't know what I'm talking about.

However, as Winston Churchill once said " Yes madam, but tomorrow I shall be sober". So I can furnish pictures and more facts if there's any interest.

Terry

Don't own a Vanagon.
Don't work at Boeing.
Life is good.

1970 CB750
1975 GL1000
1999 GL1500 SE
2002 VT750
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-27-2018, 07:32 PM
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one thing about rumors, and bad parts.


we ALWAYS hear about the bad one, and the Biggest Fish ever hooked that got away.


We never hear about all of the good ones that run and run and keep on running forever.


when I got my '02 it had ~97,500 miles on it.
no problems with it at all, but with a 4,000 mile plus rally / vacation trip coming up, and me being alone for a lot of that trip, I took the paranoid route and bought a brand new OEM alternator.


the old one is in the box, and it sits in my Tow Behind bike trailer.... yup, it was still good, and works fine.... but paranoia being what it is, I feel better with a 'new one'...


in one sense, the new one is "better", no dust around the slip rings, and it has brand new bearings.... whoopee...


the '02 now has ~114,000 miles and run like a new one off the show room floor...

and NASR12 was fun!
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Year: 1984
Make: Honda
Model: Gl1200 Standard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chilidawg View Post
Man! I hope it ain't that Randakk stator, for your sake and mine.

I've already bought one to use in my newer motor rebuild/change-out project on my 1100.

I think now I'm at least gonna Ohm it out before I commit to it.

Let us know the results of that test.
Whelp! Went to do some testing today and the plug from the stator to the main harness is completely melted together! I'm going to guess that's my problem right there.

Going to directly solder and shrink wrap the stator wires and let you know if that's the fix.
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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Year: 1984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlbranth View Post
I hear a lot about stators bound to fail. My 1970 CB750 has 60,000 miles on it and the stator works fine (with an Oregon MC Parts reg and rec). I've had no end of charging problems with the '75 GL1000. I've run all the tests, consulted with a friend who's an electrical engineer and ALWAYS the problem was a melted connector.
Although my advice is more-or-less worthless and I don't know how your electrics compares with mine, here it is: Chuck the Honda regulator and rectifier (in your neighbor's yard if you can throw them that far). Get on ebay and find an FH008EE regulator/rectifier from a CBR600RR and hook it up using Anderson Powerpole Connectors, the 30 amp version. On the '75 the FH008EE bolts to the battery holder without modification. The stock connectors cannot handle the current between the stator and the reg & rec. The Andersons can. I wired in Andersons at every connection involving serious current.
But it's happy hour and I most likely don't know what I'm talking about.

However, as Winston Churchill once said " Yes madam, but tomorrow I shall be sober". So I can furnish pictures and more facts if there's any interest.
completely melted stator connecter. Going to guess that's my problem.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatchetman View Post
I agree with the other comment. Pull the Left side cover & check those 3 yellow wires at the plug. The plug melts & your charging stops. Cut the plug out & sodder them together. cover with heat shrink. Wires do not matter how they are re joined. as long as all 3 are reconnected to the other 3.
Connector is completely melted. Going to solder and shrink wrap.
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 03:00 PM
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before you solder it all up, be sure to TEST the windings on the stator.
cut the plug out, then using only the wires from the stator,



mark them A, B, C


then measure the A/C voltage between any two legs, and rotate around the legs, and get all 3 legs written down...


a good stator will produce 50+ VAC at 3,000 rpm.
Bike...and Dennis likes this.

and NASR12 was fun!
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZgl1800 View Post
before you solder it all up, be sure to TEST the windings on the stator.
cut the plug out, then using only the wires from the stator,



mark them A, B, C


then measure the A/C voltage between any two legs, and rotate around the legs, and get all 3 legs written down...


a good stator will produce 50+ VAC at 3,000 rpm.
Yes definitely will
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 03:39 PM
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Yeah, hopefully the stator hasn't been fried, yet.

Also, look at the plug up at the rectifier. It can get hot, too.

Why ain't we ridin'?
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