GL1500 Time Keeps Changing - Any Advice Please?? - Page 3 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums
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post #21 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 05:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBohrer View Post
That's an indication of an issue with the printed circuit board. It was quite common on the 1996 Gold Wing's but could have also carried over to some 1997 year bikes. Several folks removed and thoroughly cleaned the schelack (varnish) from the circuit boards then resealed them again to resolve the issue.

Disconnecting and reconnecting batteries normally never creates issues with the clock on the GL1500 (except the time needs to be reset).

PS: Chris, Its important to provide as much detail as possible when you are describing symptoms of issues.
Hi DBohrer

Yes. I had read about this a little while back that's why I decided to take the unit apart again to clean all the contacts and apply electrical switch cleaner which didn't do any good. I then took it apart once more and cleaned the little rubber contact strips (don't know what these are called?) that fit down the sides between the printed circuit board and the LCD screen, and that is when I actually thought I'd located the problem? I was wrong I'm afraid. I did post my findings about this.

I thought I had provided as much detail when describing the symptoms. Other symptoms developed whilst I was working on the unit, which again I thought I'd described? I'm obviously not too good at this!

I'll add a bit more detail now. I have taken a bit of a break from this for a couple of days as I was getting nowhere and more, and more fed up. Whilst the dash / meter assembly was off the bike I took some fine wire wool and cleaned as many of the contacts on the connections as possible. Also, I gave them a good soaking in electrical switch cleaner. More for 'piece of mind' really.

Anyway, this morning, whilst I was trying to sort another minor problem with the thread on the speedo drive nut, I noticed the wiring connection C16 (10 pin - white) wasn't 'mating' properly. This always makes me a little suspicious! My first thought was that there may be a foreign body in there preventing proper contact, but no! I think after 20 plus years, and not knowing the full history of the bike, this has probably warped following connection and disconnection? Just my opinion of course.

Firstly, I turned the ignition key and sure enough the problem I have been referring to still exists with the clock running fast and the 'bulb test' sequence also running far too quickly. I then pushed the two parts of this connection together, and whilst holding it tight with my fingers, I turned the ignition key, and sure enough the issue disappeared. I have checked the wiring and the connector pins / sockets but cannot find any obvious fault, even though this could be the problem?

Ideally this connector needs to be replaced I suppose but just for now I have wrapped some small cable ties around both ends and pulled it tight together. Maybe I'll be lucky?

Hopefully I have given enough detail now?
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post #22 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Well fellow 'Wingers I have to say I am now really fed up and don't know what else to try. I really thought I had located the problem with the C16 not mating properly, but apparently not. I didn't do any further work on my bike yesterday but, just for 'piece of mind', thought I'd switch the ignition on just to ensure the LCD was maintaining time and that the 'bulb check' sequence was working, and can confirm all was well.

However, after spending quite some time carefully reassembling the bike today, have discovered the problem has returned (if it ever actually went away). If I had hair I would now be pulling it out.

Other than switching the ignition on a few times yesterday I haven't done anything else to the bike. I am at a complete loss now. Anyone have any further ideas please??
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post #23 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 10:59 AM
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Chris,
It really is starting to sound like the issue is in the LCD itself as Dbohrer said earlier. Have you been in contact with them about the issue?

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #24 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redwing52 View Post
Chris,
It really is starting to sound like the issue is in the LCD itself as Dbohrer said earlier. Have you been in contact with them about the issue?
Hi redwing 52. Yes I have indeed been in touch with Tanin Autoelectronix and they tend to think that the LCD itself isn't faulty but could potentially be the cluster itself.

I have just been giving this some considerable thought and going over in my mind what could cause this issue. Unfortunately, the LCD screen wasn't legible prior to replacing it, and I never really noticed the other issue with the 'bulb test' sequence, so am unable to state if this fault was present then.

One thing that I have been considering is that whilst the speedo cluster was stripped down I took the opportunity to change all the bulbs to LED's, as detailed in another post on this website. Some of these LED's required a resistor being installed in parallel to enable them to work properly. Two of these were the 'cruise set' and the 'cruise on' bulbs.

Now, as these are controlled by the LCD itself, I was just considering whether or not these resistors may in fact be the culprits? I may be clutching at straws here but I thought I'd ask before I take it all apart and maybe remove them altogether.

Last edited by chris301up; 01-06-2019 at 12:27 PM.
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post #25 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 12:32 PM
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I would not change the Cruise ON, and the Cruise Set to LED,


I think that is a bad idea. and they have a colored film over them anyway, so why bother?

~ John


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post #26 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZgl1800 View Post
I would not change the Cruise ON, and the Cruise Set to LED,


I think that is a bad idea. and they have a colored film over them anyway, so why bother?
Thats fair comment thinking about it now in hindsight. I just thought I'd change them all at the time whilst I was awaiting delivery of the LCD screen from USA. I will say the only bulbs that had coloured sheaths over them were the main blue illumination ones.

I think what I may do is remove the resistors and put the original bulbs back in for the 'cruise set' and 'cruise on' warning lights and see what happens. Just a thought really and nothing to lose!
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post #27 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-06-2019, 03:42 PM
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If you are going to put them back in, get some new ones, the originals are a few years old now, and the filaments "get tired" from use.


The Cruise ON, is never OFF on my bike, so it is very long in the tooth, but still as bright as ever at 114,000 miles.

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post #28 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 07:01 AM Thread Starter
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Just an update. I have today unsoldered and removed the resistors from the 'cruise on' and 'cruise set' warning lights and replaced the LED's with the original bulbs, but still no joy. Whilst I was doing this I checked the Yellow/Red power supply from the backup fuse, both the Green and Green/Black negative wires using my multimeter and all appears to be fine with these. I also removed and cleaned ground connection (G100) above dipstick and confirm this is also fine.

I am going to take the dash / meter assembly out just one more time so if anyone has any further advice regarding this it would be greatly appreciated?

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post #29 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris301up View Post
Hi redwing 52. Yes I have indeed been in touch with Tanin Autoelectronix and they tend to think that the LCD itself isn't faulty but could potentially be the cluster itself.
I would tend to agree with Tanin, the LCD screen is just that, a Display. There is no time keeping function in the screen, it only displays what is coming from the display driver circuits in the instrument cluster.

The display drivers get data from several places, primarily the radio, The air pressure check, and yes, a clock chip. The trick will be finding the clock chip in the instrument cluster and making sure all is good around it. (corrosion, dirt etc.)

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post #30 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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Right. I have again removed and disassembled the dash / meter and intend to give this a another good clean as described here:

https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...roblems-2.html

Previously I used electrical switch cleaner but I have ordered some isopropol alcohol off Ebay and will try this. Just one question. What is the best sealer to use once this is done?


ADDENDUM
I have just taken the printed circuit board off the back of the LCD unit and can confirm there isn't any evidence of discolouration or shellac covering the board itself, and it certainly doesn't appear or feel 'sticky'??

Last edited by chris301up; 01-07-2019 at 12:23 PM.
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