GL1500 Time Keeps Changing - Any Advice Please?? - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 05:17 PM
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you want the highest percent IsoPropol you can get, 99% is what I look for, to clean electronics.


you definitely do not want to add water, it won't dry out.

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post #32 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
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you want the highest percent IsoPropol you can get, 99% is what I look for, to clean electronics.


you definitely do not want to add water, it won't dry out.
Hi AZgl1800. I have ordered the following of Ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Isopropyl...72.m2748.l2649

What I cannot get 'my head around' is why cleaning the contacts on the PCB will make any difference whatsoever? Unless there is a 'track' between two points, which cleaning should generally remove, it shouldn't really make any difference to it's operation as they are not making contact with anything other than the integral components.

Some time ago I had a Samsung TV that wouldn't work properly unless an hair dryer was first used on it to warm the circuitry. Following examination faulty capacitors proved to be the culprit. I'm just wondering if the caps on this PCB may be failing as the LCD screen does tend to show similar signs? Particularly as others have suggested running an hair dryer around the dash / meter assembly in previous posts.

They shouldn't be too expensive I may just replace them now as a matter of course and see what happens?
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post #33 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by chris301up View Post
Hi AZgl1800. I have ordered the following of Ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Isopropyl...72.m2748.l2649

What I cannot get 'my head around' is why cleaning the contacts on the PCB will make any difference whatsoever? Unless there is a 'track' between two points, which cleaning should generally remove, it shouldn't really make any difference to it's operation as they are not making contact with anything other than the integral components.

Some time ago I had a Samsung TV that wouldn't work properly unless an hair dryer was first used on it to warm the circuitry. Following examination faulty capacitors proved to be the culprit. I'm just wondering if the caps on this PCB may be failing as the LCD screen does tend to show similar signs? Particularly as others have suggested running an hair dryer around the dash / meter assembly in previous posts.

They shouldn't be too expensive I may just replace them now as a matter of course and see what happens?
I had a welder that was acting up, found out if I blew air on a certain spot the PCB it would work. Took it out and cleaned it and it worked for a long time, until the transformer went bad.

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post #34 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 10:38 AM
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I have had many experiences of this kind of issues caused by the soldering residue while working on electronic circuits.
Since the clearances between the pins are very small and the components are very voltage sensitive, a small amount of residue can act like a capacitor or a resistor in an electronic circuit.
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post #35 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-08-2019, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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I have had many experiences of this kind of issues caused by the soldering residue while working on electronic circuits.
Since the clearances between the pins are very small and the components are very voltage sensitive, a small amount of residue can act like a capacitor or a resistor in an electronic circuit.
Yes. I can fully understand what you're saying, but surely that only applies if there is residual shellac, or perhaps soldering flux upon the surface of the PCB. There isn't any obvious signs of this, nor does it feel sticky in any way.

As a matter of course I will give this a clean, but I have also ordered replacement capacitors, so will swap these over also whilst the unit is dismantled. I feel I have nothing to lose now, and hopefully won't be doing this again in the foreseeable future


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post #36 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 06:23 AM
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Have you checked the C58 connector above the left fan?
There was a similar issue in the following link and the problem was the corroded connector.
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...ng-lights.html
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post #37 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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Have you checked the C58 connector above the left fan?
There was a similar issue in the following link and the problem was the corroded connector.
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...ng-lights.html
No. I haven't checked connector C58. In fact, I'd never thought of that one. I'll carry out what I intended first and if I'm unsuccessful I'll look at the connectors in more detail. Thanks
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post #38 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-11-2019, 03:15 PM
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you want the highest percent IsoPropol you can get, 99% is what I look for, to clean electronics.


you definitely do not want to add water, it won't dry out.
I use denatured alcohol instead of Isopropyl alcohol.

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post #39 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 04:51 AM Thread Starter
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Just an update. Following advice posted on here I once again removed the meter/dash assembly, stripped down the LCD, removed the PCB board and gave it a thorough clean with several applications of isopropyl alcohol (99.9%) as strongly advised. I will say that I couldn't detect the presence of any shellac or similar substance whilst cleaning the PCB.

I also took the opportunity of changing the capacitors and once again really thought I'd found the solution? I was extremely meticulous when undertaking this procedure, going through each step carefully and documenting everything I did. Although changing the capacitors wasn't successful in this instance I have uploaded an attachment showing this in case anyone else needs to give it a try!

Once I completed the procedure I reconnected it back on to the bike and everything worked perfectly when I switched the ignition on. This was a couple of days ago. I decided not to re-assemble the bike in case of further issues and, except for checking this by switching on the ignition occasionally over the past couple of days, have done nothing to the bike whatsoever.

This morning I thought lets put it all back together but again the exact same problem as reoccurred. I suppose all I can do now is see if I can find a good second hand cluster assembly to see if that works?

Obviously I am more than disappointed
Attached Files
File Type: pdf LCD PCB.pdf (220.4 KB, 5 views)
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post #40 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by chris301up View Post

This morning I thought lets put it all back together but again the exact same problem as reoccurred. I suppose all I can do now is see if I can find a good second hand cluster assembly to see if that works?
Did the problem reoccur before or after you put it back together? Could be a clue there.

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