GL1500 Time Keeps Changing - Any Advice Please?? - Page 5 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #41 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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Did the problem reoccur before or after you put it back together? Could be a clue there.
Hi Dave. I seem to recall mentioning this somewhere in another post, but I cannot locate it. I think it was around the same time I thought I had a problem with the suspension switches? It seems to me that all is well with the unit when first reinstalled or connected, but when it's left for a couple of days the problem recurs. Someone suggested disconnecting the battery for short time and then reconnecting, but that doesn't do anything. It gives the impression that the memory function is failing maybe?

This was why I decided to change the capacitors. I've just been looking at an image on the website and there is quite a large capacitor (at least I think that is what it is) lying flat on the PCB. I was just considering whether or not this may be something to do with the memory as there isn't an integral backup battery fitted?
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post #42 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 08:34 AM
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No backup battery, backup power comes from the 5 amp "Backup" fuse which runs the clock and keeps the memory settings in the stereo.

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post #43 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 09:25 AM
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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][SIZE="4"][COLOR="Blue"]Hi Dave. I seem to recall mentioning this somewhere in another post, but I cannot locate it. I think it was around the same time I thought I had a problem with the suspension switches? It seems to me that all is well with the unit when first reinstalled or connected, but when it's left for a couple of days the problem recurs.
I was asking specifically about this last time, did it fail before or after you put it back together? Could be something gets stressed when you button it up or a screw touching a wire or a wire being pinched.

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post #44 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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No backup battery, backup power comes from the 5 amp "Backup" fuse which runs the clock and keeps the memory settings in the stereo.
Yes. I fully understand about the 'backup' fuse/power from the 5 amp fuse. What I cannot get 'my head around', is why it should work fine for 24 - 48 hours for example and then the problem 'rears it's ugly head' yet again. I was just considering that maybe the feed from the 'backup fuse' may go to a capacitor on the PCB which, after a short time of operation fails, thus resulting in the erratic time and the 'bulb test' fault? This, in my mind, would explain why the memory function is failing as the capacitor has broken down thus causing a break in the circuit?

Capacitors do operate similarly to 'backup batteries' insomuch as they store and release power as and when required. I am 'clutching at straws' here really!

I was also thinking if there is any way to test this off the bike? The radio doesn't need to be connected as long as I can get the time and 'bulb test' function to work.
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post #45 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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I was asking specifically about this last time, did it fail before or after you put it back together? Could be something gets stressed when you button it up or a screw touching a wire or a wire being pinched.
Dave. I just cannot answer that question. At the moment I have the dash/meter assembly connected to the wiring (C16 & C91) with the unit just resting upon the ignition switch. It has been like this for a couple of days. The speedo cable is not connected, not as that should have anything to do with this, and it's not screwed into place so as far as I can tell none of the wiring is pinched in any way. The radio and suspension switches are disconnected for the time being. I have tried it with all connections, radio and suspension switches made, and that also doesn't make any difference whatsoever.

Don't know if this makes any sense?
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post #46 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Right. Whilst we have reasonable weather over here in the UK I thought I'd have another quick look at this again before it gets too dark. I haven't touched the bike since this morning but, when I turned the key, all working again. What the hell is going on here?
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post #47 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 11:15 AM
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Just an update. Following advice posted on here I once again removed the meter/dash assembly, stripped down the LCD, removed the PCB board and gave it a thorough clean with several applications of isopropyl alcohol (99.9%) as strongly advised. I will say that I couldn't detect the presence of any shellac or similar substance whilst cleaning the PCB.

I also took the opportunity of changing the capacitors and once again really thought I'd found the solution? I was extremely meticulous when undertaking this procedure, going through each step carefully and documenting everything I did. Although changing the capacitors wasn't successful in this instance I have uploaded an attachment showing this in case anyone else needs to give it a try!

Once I completed the procedure I reconnected it back on to the bike and everything worked perfectly when I switched the ignition on. This was a couple of days ago. I decided not to re-assemble the bike in case of further issues and, except for checking this by switching on the ignition occasionally over the past couple of days, have done nothing to the bike whatsoever.

This morning I thought lets put it all back together but again the exact same problem as reoccurred. I suppose all I can do now is see if I can find a good second hand cluster assembly to see if that works?

Obviously I am more than disappointed

I think your capacitor change may be part of the problem. See the voltage regulator data sheet at the link below. The standard circuit on page two shows 0.33 microfarad on the input side of the regulator and 0.1 microfarad on the output. This is 1000 times less than the value you have listed in your PDF. It makes me wonder if there wasn't a microfarad/nanofarad error.

The regulator input pin is on the left and output on the right with common in the center. If those 330 microfarad, 6.3 V capacitors are connected to the input side of the regulator you are likely frying the capacitors when you apply 12 volt battery power. There really isn't any reason not to use 25 V capacitors on the output side if they will fit.

I would definitely put a voltmeter on the input and output of the voltage regulator.

https://datasheet.octopart.com/HA178...eet-108292.pdf

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post #48 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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I think your capacitor change may be part of the problem. See the voltage regulator data sheet at the link below. The standard circuit on page two shows 0.33 microfarad on the input side of the regulator and 0.1 microfarad on the output. This is 1000 times less than the value you have listed in your PDF. It makes me wonder if there wasn't a microfarad/nanofarad error.

The regulator input pin is on the left and output on the right with common in the center. If those 330 microfarad, 6.3 V capacitors are connected to the input side of the regulator you are likely frying the capacitors when you apply 12 volt battery power. There really isn't any reason not to use 25 V capacitors on the output side if they will fit.

I would definitely put a voltmeter on the input and output of the voltage regulator.

https://datasheet.octopart.com/HA178...eet-108292.pdf
Hi Wes. Thank you for the information. All I can tell you is that I replaced the capacitors with exactly the same as I removed, so detailed this in the PDF attachment. I will have a look at this in more detail when I have a little more time
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post #49 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 12:07 PM
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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][SIZE="4"][COLOR="Blue"]Dave. I just cannot answer that question. At the moment I have the dash/meter assembly connected to the wiring (C16 & C91) with the unit just resting upon the ignition switch.
Looks to me like you answered the question you couldn't answer. I conclude you had not put it back together even though I'm not there to see for myself so forget my question.

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post #50 of 81 (permalink) Old 01-13-2019, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Looks to me like you answered the question you couldn't answer. I conclude you had not put it back together even though I'm not there to see for myself so forget my question.
I see where you are coming from now Dave! I will forget what you asked. Thanks
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