1986 Goldwing GL1200 Interstate - Page 13 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #121 of 193 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 06:16 AM
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.i had a 75 1000 that had to have the gaskets replaced but none of the other 5 never needed it done.
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I have had 1 GL1000, at least a dozen 1100s and 1 1200 and none of them had a blown head gasket. It's probably just a matter of how bad it was overheated.

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post #122 of 193 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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I have had 1 GL1000, at least a dozen 1100s and 1 1200 and none of them had a blown head gasket. It's probably just a matter of how bad it was overheated.
Were any of them burning engine coolant? If so, how was it burning coolant if the gaskets weren't blown? Was their a crack in the block or head?

Joe
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post #123 of 193 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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You just never know about head gaskets,some run a long time ,mostly I think that are run on a regular basis will outlast ones tha set,.i had a 75 1000 that had to have the gaskets replaced but none of the other 5 never needed it done.
Go with OEM gaskets,as much trouble as they are to change,donít cut corners,there one bolt way down low that is hard to see.
I donít think Iíve ever heard of a wing cracking a cylinder.if it were cracked,I donít think it would blow water but might be coolant in the oil?
What you see is typical wing blown head gasket,with the front off to do the belts you might replace the water pump,some time when the WP goes you might see oil or water coming out the weep hole in the pump cover.
Which bolt is hard to see? Looks pretty simple and straight forward to me. But then I've never removed a Wing head before. Is their a bolt on the head that's hard to get to or see?

My GL1200 doesn't blow anything at first start-up. But once the temperature reaches mid-range on the gauge, that's when you start to see white steam being emitted from the pipes. Juice the throttle and it comes out thick. Shut down the bike and let it cool for a few minutes, you can then restart it without any white smoke until it again reaches operating temperature. That to me sounds like a bad head gasket, likely caused by the inner ring of the gasket being corroded and allowing coolant into the cylinder. I am pulling the plugs today to find out which one is burning coolant, usually identified by a white ashy deposit on the plug tips.

I agree...change timing belt and pump while I'm at it since the radiator will have to be removed. I think the most difficult part that will require attention on my part is replacing the timing belts. I've never done belts on a motorcycle before; only cars and trucks.

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post #124 of 193 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 07:25 AM
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What you described is typical bad gasket,you could tell by header temp,but replacing bothnow might save you some time later,the bolt I mentioned is way underneath and requires a 10 mm wrench,thereís also copper gaskets inside the head that the headers set on that most likely are squished and need replacing,the belts can be intimidating because the cams tend to want to not stay put while you put the belts on,Dave0430 mentioned he made something to stabelize them helping to minimize mistakes but ASSURE itís right before starting the motor because itís a tight fit for the piston and valves contact.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

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post #125 of 193 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 08:53 AM
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What you described is typical bad gasket,you could tell by header temp,but replacing bothnow might save you some time later,the bolt I mentioned is way underneath and requires a 10 mm wrench,thereís also copper gaskets inside the head that the headers set on that most likely are squished and need replacing,the belts can be intimidating because the cams tend to want to not stay put while you put the belts on,Dave0430 mentioned he made something to stabilize them helping to minimize mistakes but ASSURE itís right before starting the motor because itís a tight fit for the piston and valves contact.



that is a lost cause, he can never fix it, because there are no 10mm wrenches to be found anywhere
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post #126 of 193 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 08:59 AM
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Were any of them burning engine coolant? If so, how was it burning coolant if the gaskets weren't blown? Was their a crack in the block or head?

Joe
No, none of them were burning any coolant. I was just stating that I had not had a 4 cyl wing that had a blown headgasket. ^ cylinder don't seem to ever have that problem.

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post #127 of 193 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 11:32 AM
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that is a lost cause, he can never fix it, because there are no 10mm wrenches to be found anywhere
I bet he has some vice grips,where thereís a will thereís a way.🙀🙀🙀

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

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1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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post #128 of 193 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

Turns out I'm not burning coolant after all. I'm in fact burning oil. The reason for the coolant level drop after initially running the engine was likely because of air in the cooling system. It's been stable all day and maintains the upper level fill mark on the overflow bottle.

The smoke I'm seeing is white/blue smoke and smells very much like burnt oil. I'm also seeing fresh combusted oil (somewhat clear) exiting the drain holes on each muffler. That's telling me she's definitely burning oil. I'll pull the spark plugs out in an hour once the engine has cooled, and that will tell me which side is burning oil.

Given that the engine does not start burning oil until well after the engine has warmed, I think it's possible that this could be degraded valve stem seals. What's making me suspect this is the oil has to have time to travel through the heads before enough oil gathers in the valve train to be sucked through the seals and into the combustion chamber.

The other possibility of course is stuck oil rings. As the engine warms up, the cylinder walls theoretically expand from heat, thereby creating a larger gap for the oil to slip past the rings and into the combustion chamber. Honestly, either scenario will mean a great deal of work. Of course, if it turns out to be the oil rings, and even after oil treatment with seafoam or B12 Chemtool, then the only thing I can hope for is for the rings to break loose after driving time. However, if it turns out to be the rings, then the motor is done and it's probably better for me to replace the engine, or have the one on it overhauled, at which case I'd simply sell the bike for parts. LOL

However, if it is the valve stem seals, then that is repairable, which would mean both heads would have to come off.

Summary:

Engine runs great after carb-tuning this morning, and has a substantial amount of power and torque. Unfortunately after about 15 to 20 minutes of idle time, she begins to smoke blue/white smoke with a noticeable amount of burnt-oil odor. Juice the throttle while test driving around the block and the smoke gets progressively worse.

What say you all? Oil rings? Piston rings? Valve stems? Junk the bike? lol
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post #129 of 193 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 01:56 PM
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No way it could get that much oil, enough to make much smoke, through the valve stems. I'm betting on stuck rings but make sure the crankcase vent is clear.

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post #130 of 193 (permalink) Old 02-10-2019, 02:05 PM
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Heck just what was suggested and go ride it,take some extra plugs along

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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