1997 Goldwing GL1500 front end wobble - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 10:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bike...and Dennis View Post
How much air and is the rear squaring off? Are they radials?
As far as I know, the rear should be good. I just had the rear tire replaced a few months ago.

I service both the front and the rear with 40psi. I now the book calls for a little less, but I'm using Bridgestone tires and modern tires in my opinion can utilize a slightly higher pressure. I think the book calls for 36psi on the front, and the pressure on the rear to about 39psi with passenger. So I just set both of them at 40PSI. I've tried riding on the stock pressure recommendations and the wobble still happens.

Joe
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post #12 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 10:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by trike lady View Post
You may want to update the steering head bearings with tapered ones. http://wingstuff.com/products/36876-...-gl1200-gl1100
You can also try to readjust the ones that are in place.
I was going to do that today, but the center nut (I think about 18mm or larger) has a wiring harness through it so I didn't feel like piddling around with it. I've also torqued the strut clamp bolts and still no change. Both struts are set at 6psi, although the book recommends 3psi; still no change.

I think it's the tire as the treading on the edges (both sides) appears to be cupping or feathering, likely from merely how I've been riding. Then again, this bike has done this since I purchased the bike. It really doesn't scare me as it is controllable. At higher speeds, the wheel does not wobble unless I force it to wobble by oscillating the bars left and right with one hand. If I am traveling faster than 46mph, it will not sustain the wobble and will quickly smooth back out. But under 45mph, if I force the wobble, it will grow worse until I take control with both hands. Keep in mind that I'm only testing the wobble effects with a single hand, but that is not how I ride.

I think it's the tire.

Joe
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post #13 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DBohrer View Post
Your GL1500 has the tapered steering stem bearings. I would replace the tire first. If that does not resolve the issue then re-torque the steering stem bearings.

Then go from there if needed.....!

If you are referring to the "Super Brace", they help to prevent flexing of the front forks but do not cause the forks to be harder to collapse (up and down). However it is important to install them correctly so they "do not bind" the forks. I have used one for many years.....!
That's the problem I had when installing the brace. I don't recall the brand name, but it flexed the struts outwards. I even loosened the strut clamps to allow the strut to settle as I install the brace, and it still flexed the struts outwards. The only thing I can think of is to grind off some of the metal on the brace. Another problem is the guy who sent me the brace sent the wrong bolts; he sent me 7mm bolts, and mine uses 8mm. So I had to go to a hardware store to find the right bolts.

Joe
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post #14 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 11:00 AM
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My 1993 had a Brigestone on it when I bought it. It would start to shake when coming to a stop. If I would have let go of the bars it would have slapped both side's of the False tank. The tire was cupped and really on it's last leg. I put a new to me used tire on it that I bought and it made a big difference, ( happened to be a Dunlop) then I rebuilt the front fork's and put the Black Hawk brace on and it made it better but when I jacked up the front end I could feel a flat spot in turning the Handel bars back and forth. The bike rode very good at this point but I knew that flat spot was there. Then I replaced the upper and lower bearings and installed the new Dunlop E4 tire, 39 or 40 lbs . I also replaced the wheel bearings on the front end. That tire has 14,102 miles on it and no shake in the front end. The tire is smooth on the sides no cupping. It also shows very little wear for the miles I have on it. My bike has 159,000 miles on it so the front end was worn out. I have a Dunlop E4 on the rear and I like them a lot, but it's not the tire that solved the Shake it was the front end was loose and worn out. I run Bia's ply tires like Honda put on the bike from the factory. I have spent a lot of time and money on my good deal when I bought it. I'm lucky that I can still learn things and can do this stuff. Also it takes a lot of help and advise from guy's on here. Even Dennis with his never Dunlop. Joe did you get this bike running right, the carb stuff?
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post #15 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 04:57 PM
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front tire don't know what your running goes away with avon tire on bike bad with Dunlop or metizler new e-4 Dunlop is a good copy of avon seems to well

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post #16 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 05:26 PM
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If you have to put pressure on the forks to get the brace on ,then thereís an issue,it should just fit fine,the front wheel may have been installed incorrectly,try loosening the pinch bolts and see it the brace will go on like itís supposed to,any chance one of the tubes might be bent.
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post #17 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Burns View Post
My 1993 had a Brigestone on it when I bought it. It would start to shake when coming to a stop. If I would have let go of the bars it would have slapped both side's of the False tank. The tire was cupped and really on it's last leg. I put a new to me used tire on it that I bought and it made a big difference, ( happened to be a Dunlop) then I rebuilt the front fork's and put the Black Hawk brace on and it made it better but when I jacked up the front end I could feel a flat spot in turning the Handel bars back and forth. The bike rode very good at this point but I knew that flat spot was there. Then I replaced the upper and lower bearings and installed the new Dunlop E4 tire, 39 or 40 lbs . I also replaced the wheel bearings on the front end. That tire has 14,102 miles on it and no shake in the front end. The tire is smooth on the sides no cupping. It also shows very little wear for the miles I have on it. My bike has 159,000 miles on it so the front end was worn out. I have a Dunlop E4 on the rear and I like them a lot, but it's not the tire that solved the Shake it was the front end was loose and worn out. I run Bia's ply tires like Honda put on the bike from the factory. I have spent a lot of time and money on my good deal when I bought it. I'm lucky that I can still learn things and can do this stuff. Also it takes a lot of help and advise from guy's on here. Even Dennis with his never Dunlop. Joe did you get this bike running right, the carb stuff?
I suspect the same with mine; a worn suspension, either the shocks or the tree. Thanks for sharing.

Joe
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post #18 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Pure Texas View Post
If you have to put pressure on the forks to get the brace on ,then thereís an issue,it should just fit fine,the front wheel may have been installed incorrectly,try loosening the pinch bolts and see it the brace will go on like itís supposed to,any chance one of the tubes might be bent.
It's quite possible, and that might have happened when I first tried to install the brace; I forced it. After I took it off, I checked to see if either of the tubes were bent, and I was unable to tell; they both seem to slide just fine. Right now, the bike doesn't bounce as it did with the brace.

When I installed the brace the second time, I loosened the pinch bolts (top and bottom) and installed the brace. Even then I had to use a little bit of force. So I ground off the corners of the brace just enough so that the brace would sit right down. And while most of the wobble was nearly gone, the front would bounce on every single wavy spot of the road, much like a sport bike. So I removed it.

Joe
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post #19 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 08:35 PM
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Your steering bearings are loose and will be shot soon or already are. The loose bearings are being pounded into their races and will have grooves worn in them that will show up as being a notchy feeling when you finally tighten them and then they will need to be replaced.

I had gone through that with my 88 years ago. I learned a lot from this forum back then.

My '12 had BAD decel wobble from almost new and tightening those OEM ball bearings did no good so i had finally got around to tearing it down and replaced with tapered rollers and now it is like a new bike. Was 100% worth the trouble and since i had done it before i new what i was in for.

Your superbrace is definitely binding the forks and needs to fit properly one way or another or the slider bushings and lower fork leg with be badly worn.
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Pirelli Centurato P1 87V R/F-took off with 14.5k on it and mounted new P1. Maybe 2k more left but had small cut, so in trash.
34-36psi.
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post #20 of 42 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldwingA1500 View Post
It's quite possible, and that might have happened when I first tried to install the brace; I forced it. After I took it off, I checked to see if either of the tubes were bent, and I was unable to tell; they both seem to slide just fine. Right now, the bike doesn't bounce as it did with the brace.

When I installed the brace the second time, I loosened the pinch bolts (top and bottom) and inmstalled the brace. Even then I had to use a little bit of force. So I ground off the corners of the brace just enough so that the brace would sit right down. And while most of the wobble was nearly gone, the front would bounce on every single wavy spot of the road, much like a sport bike. So I removed it.

Joe
My 1500 is as stable as my Freighliner but I run a Radial on the front and it dosent wallow in a parking lot,hard to say what your issue is but the brace ( stock brace on mine)should be on,my front is E3 Radial back is Avon,love that combination,if it bounces,the springs could be weak or air is needed in the legs.

Love chasing white lines but they are difficult to catch.Hate drivers with no STOPLIGHTS.

1968 Kawasaki Avenger
1969 H1 Kawasaki
1975 1000
1985 LTD
1982 1100,STANDARD
1991 ST 1100
1991 SE Goldwing.
1995 BMW R 1100RS
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