sure wud b nice to have price on either serpentine and V belt pulley here ... and where to send $ as I wud think that many wud just ... go for it and have that item out of the way as to me that seems to be the major holdup, besides the work, to the whole project. the brackets aren't that hard to make, spacers for lower radiator can b made out of 3/4-1" clamshell conduit hanging clamps ~$2/each from HD and all thread to space out the radiator...~3/4-1". so maybe u cld give us an inkling of what the person wants for the pulleys/address to send MO, for both V belt and serpentine type... pls? so can plan ahead for the purchase?
a 4" piece of 1" x 1/8 or 3/16" angle iron with 7/16" hole in one end to use motor mount bolt to hold the bottom of alternator. a 3/8" hole 2-3/8" away from that hole for lower alternator bolt/chrome cut to fit MOROSO spacer, on E bay for ~$12, if want it pretty. although I saw pix of someone using 3/8" threaded water pipe collar (in black or galvanized, cant use galvanized on natural gas connections I hv been told) and a couple of washers on either side to space out the bottom of the alternator to get it "just right" so belt runs true.
top bracket a piece of ~7.25"? x 1"-1.25" x 3/18" plate for under the fairing (the area under the fairing is tapered width will fit 1" wide metal, without grinding something, but 1.5" wide metal strap would need some grinding either of the metal strap or the 3/16" of metal that is under the fairing. 1.25" wide metal strap might be close to ideal, but don't know if they make metal strap in that width? need to go to welder and check on that. if can get under/over fairing area (take CB out to get hand in there) I wud drill 3/8" hole thru under fairing to put 2 - 3/8" REAL BOLTS to hold that mount on as the bolts that stick through are so small... like 1/8"? that seems (to me, maybe) too small for even light small 1 wire alternator 35A = 420W (stock stator 360w).
the adjuster piece that is welded to bottom of the 1" wide strap under fairing is 1" x 2" x 3/16" thick with a diagonal 3/8" cut for adjustment of alt belt tightness. I guess ppl drill out the bottom alt mounting hole to 3/8" to run a 3/8" bolt thru the bottom bracket with spacers/washers/ 3/8" plumbing pipe collar. this negates returning new alternator for refund, but brushes and diodes for alternator cant be much $ or hard to replace??? easy to keep on bike with tools to take alternator apart IF it fails. some use USED junkyard alternators, for all the work involved doing conversion... NEW is the only way to go, to me. (e bay/rock auto... ~$65). New and refurbished 35watt 1 wire alternators on e bay were both ~$36, 55watt geo metro/sprint/Pontiac firefly alternators seem to have gone up to ~$75+ from $65?
105AMP GM CHROME alternator $65? wud be kewl and could run a LOT OF LIGHTS, but that big of alternator WHINES NOTICEABLY on a motor vehicle/truck/car, the WHINE would be too much on MC, but that alternator is $65 on e bay. it would NOT fit under the fairing as it is TOO BIG. someone cut the lower fairing to let the alternator sit halfway out in the breeze (that person had it driven by a pulley mounted on camshaft driven by cam belts=extra load on belts?), im sure it worked but.... aesthetically pleasing... it was ... up to the viewer to decide. although the drive pulley off the camshaft drive was what looks to be a 6" pulley so it is going to CHARGE at idle with 1:3 ratio to the ~2" alternator pulley? although I think they all charge ok at idle or slightly above idle. depends on if ppl REV their machines a lot or don't rev them that much and use low end torque of motor mostly around town and low speeds.
I read that the new 1800 Goldwing has 110 ft/lb of torque as early as 1100 RPM??? WOW, I thought it was 110 ft/lb @ 5000 R's, but 85%+ of that torque avail at 2500+ RPM's? depends on what source a person is reading. torque curve from idle to .... but most HP/torque curves START at 2000RPM's it seems like... 2500R's? Stump Pullin' torque, right off idle. big over the road trucks... 1500-1800 ft/lb torque as early as 900 rpm's, depending on how high the wick is turned up... MPG or POWER to climb rocky mountains faster than 25 MPH
I wudnt think that the width difference tween V belt and 3 rib ~28-32"(longest 3 rib serpentine belt I saw on E bay was 31.5" OD then they go to 4 rib belts for 32"+) long belt wud make a world of difference in width? just need to get the alternator IN UNDER the lower fairing, unless rat bike and cut that part of the fairing off for easier cleaning of radiator/covers/check for leaks/get ready for conversion to familiarize ourselves to what we are looking at before we open up the can of worms.
make SURE THAT THE BACK BRAKE caliper works WELL as have to use back brake to hold tire/engine to get the thread locked 12MM bolt out of the front of crank snout, to replace with 12mm x 60mm longer bolt, with breaker bar and FORCE /Cheater pipe on breaker bar so back brake/clutch has to work... or put 2x4 thru wheel and ease it into the bottom of the mufflers(motor/tire/wheel will be turning backwards to break the crank bolt free) before getting medieval with the breaker bar to break the thread lock on crank bolt.
I wud super glue the gaskets around the timing covers, that will fall off when take timing covers off, on to the covers so they stay there upon reassembly. got to plan on doing belts at same time if don't know when the belts were last done. I wud use diamond tip engraver to engrave on top of the belt guards for us/next owner to KNOW when belts were changed, but I don't have a NICE GL, just an old one, sadly. so can we get a near $$$ figure on what each one would cost so we can plan our limited finances toward the purchase of a pulley or 2... for future inexpensive GL's that need a stator... replacement. thx