GL1500 Starting / Lighting Problem - Help Please!! - Page 2 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #11 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Rowley Regis, England
Year: 1997
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Model: 1500 SEV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DBohrer View Post
Chris, The trailer wiring is normally connected up under the trunk. You would remove the panel under the trunk (4 screws).

There is a Red connector at each rear corner where the trailer wiring harness is connected in series.

This is how it is normally wired but who knows how yours might have been connected.......!!

Did you replace the Tail Main Relay # 3 and check its contacts.....??

That relay always has "load" power (even with the ignition OFF).

If by chance you did something to short the "coil contacts" on that relay together, you would have a drain on the battery (even with the ignition OFF). And a lot more drain when the ignition was turned ON.
Hi Dave

This was one of my thoughts earlier on so I swapped the tail/main relay for one of the others in the relay box (I don't have any spare relays to hand) and it was still the same. I'll take the top box off in the morning and check out what the wiring is like for the trailer. Is there any way I could check the operation of the relays while I'm at it do you know?
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post #12 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 05:25 PM
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Chris,



You may have two problems , but often solving one fixes the other.



But if were me I would go after the Battery drain problem first.



Here is how I would go about it without a wire diagram.



Tools Needed :

1. Test Light ( with incandescent type bulb , not an L.E.D.)

safest way for someone that has never done this before .

2. optional an Ammeter ------ask me how to use if you do not know


Test Light method:



Disconnect the negative battery cable

Hook up the alligator clip end to the negative cable of bike
Use another alligator jumper wire and hook it up to the pointy part of test light.

Hook the other end of the jumper wire to the battery.



Now you essentially just put the test light in series.



With the key off , if you have a draw on the system the light will be Lit.



Now if Lit , first disconnect the trailer plug . If light goes out then your problem is in trailer wiring. (but it could be bike side)


If light stays Lit , go to your fuse box , pull each fuse one at a time until the light goes out.



Sometimes the light will go dimmer after pulling a fuse .



Keep track of this if this happens. But continue on until light goes completely out.



This will tell you the exact circuit(s) the problem is in .



Then troubleshoot that circuit or circuits.


p.s. you may have more than one fuse box on the bike
you may have inline fuses as well



if all else fails , you have disconnected each fuse one at a time , and the test light is still lit then disconnect the alternator or voltage regulator ( if separate of alternator).



You might try disconnect starter solenoid too if have one.



Alternators can go bad in such a way , that it will draw on a system , and no fuse to pull.


Unfortunatley I am not familiar with your bike I have a GL1800
But I do have a Valkyrie with the 1500 but less than 10,000 miles and never needed to troubleshoot yet.

You know, windows didn't get that bad over night! It took fifteen years of careful development!
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post #13 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-26-2019, 05:30 PM
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If your bike has a trailer isolater harness it is a likely source of your problem. It would have a red wire from the battery + and should have a fuse you could remove and see if it solves the problem.

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post #14 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 03:38 AM
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I would check any additional cables coming from the battery, i got mine a couple of years ago & when i lifted the seat there were several redundant cables cut off under it, i also had to rewire the trailer & replace the lights as reflectors were tarnished inside.
If its drawing power from the battery with the ignition off its likely to be something directly connected to the battery.
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post #15 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 04:50 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill-UK View Post
I would check any additional cables coming from the battery, i got mine a couple of years ago & when i lifted the seat there were several redundant cables cut off under it, i also had to rewire the trailer & replace the lights as reflectors were tarnished inside.
If its drawing power from the battery with the ignition off its likely to be something directly connected to the battery.
Hi Bill

Yes. This bike was like that when I first had it. Lots of wires (like a plate of spaghetti) going everywhere. One thing I have learned since having a 'Wing is 'parasitic drains' so I removed all extra wiring from the battery. I don't have anything extra connected to this at the moment. In fact, what I am attempting to do is familiarise myself with all the wiring that has been fitted, removing anything that is redundant and replacing all that needs to be replaced. Hence my reason for checking the trailer socket in the first instance!
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post #16 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 04:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveO430 View Post
If your bike has a trailer isolater harness it is a likely source of your problem. It would have a red wire from the battery + and should have a fuse you could remove and see if it solves the problem.
Thanks Dave

I am intending to check this out very shortly. I'll remove the top box and see what wiring is attached to the trailer socket. Be in touch
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post #17 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 05:10 AM
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Do you have a colour wiring diagram?
One was posted a while ago, very helpful piece of info, if you cant find it on here i can send it later
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post #18 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 05:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill-UK View Post
Do you have a colour wiring diagram?
One was posted a while ago, very helpful piece of info, if you cant find it on here i can send it later
Yes Bill. I have it somewhere on my laptop. If I'm stuck I'll be in touch. Thanks
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post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 06:52 AM
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"Removing the top box" is not as easy as it sounds. As suggested above, I would take out the half dozen screws and remove the bottom cover from the trunk - it encircles the trunk and pannier latches. That's going to give an idea of what's been messed with. Also above, the small cover covers on the bottom rear of the panniers may hide some surprises.

No one has mentioned checking the starter button. Known to get sticky and cause starter and headlight issues.
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post #20 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-27-2019, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy Cote View Post
"Removing the top box" is not as easy as it sounds. As suggested above, I would take out the half dozen screws and remove the bottom cover from the trunk - it encircles the trunk and pannier latches. That's going to give an idea of what's been messed with. Also above, the small cover covers on the bottom rear of the panniers may hide some surprises.

No one has mentioned checking the starter button. Known to get sticky and cause starter and headlight issues.



If you Unbolt the Top Box/Trunk (via 4 screws, from inside trunk), then you can lift it up enough (~1-2") to access all the wiring beneath... without actually removing the trunk.
You'll have to first remove the big U-shaped cover on the lower/rear of trunk, and the saddle bags too for side-access


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