GL1500 Starting / Lighting Problem - Help Please!! - Page 4 - Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums

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post #31 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 07:13 AM
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Would you agree the battery is bad even though it may be holding a full charge? Will confirm this a little later when I pop into the shop
Yes, I have seen many batteries that will hold a charge but will not hold up under load. Bad internal connection between the cells.

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post #32 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, I have seen many batteries that will hold a charge but will not hold up under load. Bad internal connection between the cells.
Okay Dave. I must admit I was thinking that myself hence my reason for having battery checked first. Thanks
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post #33 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Right. Have had the battery fully charged and confirm that initially it is around 13.2 volts, but when the battery tester is applied the voltage drops, and remains steady at around 12.3 volts. Probably not enough to turn the engine over. Maybe, as Dave suggested, the battery is in fact on it's way out? Looks like saving some cash and investing in another gel battery!
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post #34 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 10:19 AM
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ADDENDUM

I have had the battery tested and although the output voltage drops very slightly, all is good. I don't have much faith in the Optimate chargers, which I have been using to keep it topped up, so they are going to charge it to full capacity and test again, just to be sure! It's looking more likely to be a problem with the wiring somewhere now?

Optimate makes different models of chargers, I am sure...


but the only ones that " I trust " are branded Battery Tender, which come in several different current capacity models... the 2 models I choose are the 1.25 amp, and the 0.75 amp versions.


Either will keep your bike's battery topped off at 13.6ish all the time.
they turn on, charge, then turn off and monitor.
that way, there is not the problem of boiling a battery dry.


I have one dedicated to every battery equipped vehicle here.
  • RV deep cycle
  • Piaggio MP3 scooter
  • GL1800,
  • Lawnmower tractor ( this is the worst of the lot, if not on Battery Tender )


and one with Alligator clips that gets moved around during sub-freezing long term weather.... it goes on the Suburban and the Pontiac Vibe because we are recluses in Cold Weather, and don't get out of the house.

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post #35 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by chris301up View Post
Right. Have had the battery fully charged and confirm that initially it is around 13.2 volts, but when the battery tester is applied the voltage drops, and remains steady at around 12.3 volts. Probably not enough to turn the engine over. Maybe, as Dave suggested, the battery is in fact on it's way out? Looks like saving some cash and investing in another gel battery!
What sort of tester is being used? I don't trust electronic testers, they are pretty good most of the time but they don't apply enough load to really be sure. I used them quite a bit when I was working and found them to not be reliable. Usually showing good batteries bad but sometimes showing bad batteries good. The one in my 94 chevy tested bad 4 years ago, it's still in there.

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post #36 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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What sort of tester is being used? I don't trust electronic testers, they are pretty good most of the time but they don't apply enough load to really be sure. I used them quite a bit when I was working and found them to not be reliable. Usually showing good batteries bad but sometimes showing bad batteries good. The one in my 94 chevy tested bad 4 years ago, it's still in there.
The tester I always preferred to use when I worked at our local tyre and exhaust company many years ago was the Durite Tester, but these are now illegal to use in the UK has they spark and have caused injury in the past. Really good and shows dud cells etc. Most shops now use an equivalent tester the Ancel with crocodile clips. Both of these are shown in the images
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File Type: jpg Drop Tester 1.jpg (23.0 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Durite Drop Tester.jpg (18.4 KB, 2 views)
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post #37 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by chris301up View Post
The tester I always preferred to use when I worked at our local tyre and exhaust company many years ago was the Durite Tester, but these are now illegal to use in the UK has they spark and have caused injury in the past. Really good and shows dud cells etc. Most shops now use an equivalent tester the Ancel with crocodile clips. Both of these are shown in the images
Chris,
There is a real easy no nonsense backyard battery test. Connect your voltmeter to the battery and set to DC volts. With the voltmeter connected try to start the bike. Does your voltmeter read 10 volts or better while the starter is cranking? If not you either have a starter issue (not likely) or the battery is junk. Voltage in and of itself is inconclusive. If the battery reads 13.2 volts at rest and drops to 7 volts while cranking under load, it is no good. If the battery reads 13.2 volts and 10.5 volts while cranking under load the battery is not the issue. The question is how does the battery stand up to a load. Static voltage does not mean much.

Mike

Worked on the "big rigs" for 45 years now just riding my Wing whenever I can. Gets cold in Wisconsin.
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post #38 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
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Chris,
There is a real easy no nonsense backyard battery test. Connect your voltmeter to the battery and set to DC volts. With the voltmeter connected try to start the bike. Does your voltmeter read 10 volts or better while the starter is cranking? If not you either have a starter issue (not likely) or the battery is junk. Voltage in and of itself is inconclusive. If the battery reads 13.2 volts at rest and drops to 7 volts while cranking under load, it is no good. If the battery reads 13.2 volts and 10.5 volts while cranking under load the battery is not the issue. The question is how does the battery stand up to a load. Static voltage does not mean much.
Redwing. I have just refitted the battery and can tell you the multi-meter read 12.4 volts, which remained steady, whilst the bike was switched off. When I turned the key to the first position the reading dropped to around 11.5 volts, which I assume is due to the saddlebag lights illuminating? Under starting conditions the reading dropped to around 9.4 - 9.8 volts until the engine fired. Just though I'd post my findings. I've ordered another Motobat gel battery just as a matter of course!
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post #39 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Andy Cote View Post
The lights on the side of the panniers are not factory installed. They could be Hondaline or an aftermarket manufacturer. Either way they have been added and it sounds like they are wired to an Accessory (ACC) hot circuit.

Key switch has an ACC selection between OFF and RUN. This should allow you to operate the radio, air compressor, expresso machine and such without providing power to the ignition system or headlights.
Andy. You say the lighting on the side of the saddlebags are not factory installed? I'm a little confused here. All 'Wings I've come across, including the one I previously owned, have these lights??
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post #40 of 50 (permalink) Old 02-28-2019, 04:28 PM
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Andy. You say the lighting on the side of the saddlebags are not factory installed? I'm a little confused here. All 'Wings I've come across, including the one I previously owned, have these lights??
Saddlebag and trunk lights were not installed on 1988 - 2000 Gold Wing's at the assembly plant.

Honda did have saddlebag lights (see attached) that could be installed by owners.

There were a couple aftermarket companies that made saddlebag and trunk lights that could be installed by owners.
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File Type: jpg GL1500 Saddlebag Lights Hondaline-1.jpg (110.6 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg GL1500 Saddlebag Lights Hondaline-2.jpg (101.8 KB, 7 views)
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